Hunt, shoot, fish, cook

A book which flopped so badly when it was first published over 40 years ago that the author didn't bother to bank the meagre royalty cheques has become a stunning success after being revived by a Ludlow publisher.

Countryman's Cooking by the late W.M.W. Fowler - he died in 1977 - is now on its fourth reprint in only a month.

"It's very surprising and amazing. Who could possibly have thought it?" said David Burnett, of Ludlow-based Excellent Press.

"I'm absolutely thrilled."

The success of the book, which has been republished by Mr Burnett with the permission of Willie Fowler's widow, has been all the more remarkable because it sank without trace when originally published in 1965.

"It was a complete failure."

However, a front page blurb in The Times on "the real man's cookbook" and a three-page inside spread featuring the book has led to a terrific demand for the modern reprint.

Fowler's mix of some old-fashioned, traditional views and a huntin', shootin', fishin' background, with a modern and far-sighted outlook on other issues such as animal welfare, pollution, land management, pesticides, and the handling of food, also seems to have struck a chord.

In his introduction Fowler writes: "This book is written for men. Men who, through choice or circumstance, live on their own, so that they can give a small dinner party and at the same time remain on speaking terms with their friends."

Mr Burnett was browsing through the Oxfam shop in Ludlow about three years ago when he came across a copy of the original book. Fowler's initials, W.M.W., leapt out at him.

Although he had never met Fowler, he knew of him, as there was an acknowledgment to him in a classic book called Sea Trout Fishing by Fowler's friend and near neighbour in Eskdale, Hugh Falkus.

"I didn't need another cook book but when I saw those initials I was curious. I never knew Fowler had written a book. I bought it for 50p. When I got home I read it and thought 'This is great stuff'. I tried cooking some of the recipes. I have a little dining club here in Ludlow and some of the other members cooked some of the recipes too. Gradually we came to rely on the book for traditional English country cooking."

Deciding to reissue the book, he tracked down Fowler's elderly second wife, Toni Richards, to whom the book is dedicated, and went to see her in Eskdale, and got her go-ahead for the project.

Born in 1914, Fowler lived in Eskdale, Cumbria, and during the war was a bomber pilot, but was shot down. While a prisoner of war he met Falkus, a Spitfire pilot, and in the post-war period they formed a sporting and commercial partnership.

As a director of a London publishers, Mr Burnett knew and visited Falkus.

"Up the valley one mile away was Willie Fowler's farm. I knew about Fowler, but never met him. He was, by that time, more or less reclusive. I remembered his initials."

Fowler's cooking tips range from how to cook a rook pie, to the perfect method of making bacon and eggs.

Jugged hare, woodcock, and snipe are all among items on his menu.

At various points he digresses, with anecdotes from his service days and reminiscences, and also some tub-thumping.

Farmers don't come out of it well.

"The way some of them treat their women, children, hands and dogs would make even Captain Bligh blink," he says.

As for women, the thrice-married Fowler recommends employing them to do the salads and pastries.

Nearly all women, from 19 to 90, have a secret conviction that nobody but themselves is to be trusted to make salads or pastries, and he advises ringing "Luscious Lettie" or "Flakey Flossie" and inviting them over as required.

For salad expert "Luscious Lettie" he recommends the following patter: "Lettie darling, do come over. I've got a cucumber and some tomatoes, and all sorts of things. You're so much better at dealing with them than I am."

He then adds: "If she hesitates at all, add quickly: 'I've just bought a bottle of gin' - which should clinch matters."

He cautions though: "It is usually better if she is not a chum of Flossie's - otherwise you may come unstuck."

To create perfect pastry, he comes up with an alternative strategy. This is the time to invite over "Flakey Flossie".

"A phone call will, with a bit of luck, have her panting on the doorstep within ten minutes, a bag of flour clutched in one fist and a rolling-pin in the other, rarin' to go.

"Swing straight into the Gin and Soft-soap routine. But remember - DON'T kiss her till she has carried out her duties; otherwise you will find the situation gets completely out of hand and you end up, hours later, with no gin and no lid on your pie!"

Countryman's Cooking is hardback, £16.95, and is available from Mr Burnett at Excellent Press on (01584) 877803.