La Bécasse, Ludlow

Sharon Walters enjoys a superb dining experience at La Bécasse in Ludlow and gets to look behind the scenes.

La Bécasse, Ludlow

Just a few weeks ago head chef at La Bécasse in Ludlow, Will Holland, gained his first Michelin star.

And after eating there last week a second must be on the cards for next year.

His food is sourced locally, where possible, is of the highest quality and the flavours are eye opening.

My foray to La Bécasse was not just for a meal, it was rather for a new experience Will and his team are trying out – demo days.

The monthly cookery demonstration are held on the first Wednesday of every month and booking is essential.

Friend Gay and I love cooking and entertaining and couldn't resist the opportunity to see behind the scenes, meet Will and also enjoy lunch while catching up on news and gossip.

In fact we didn't gossip that much because we had so much to talk about the demo and the food.

Ah well, we will just have to go back for that catch up.

We were invited to turn up at 10.30am where we were greeted with a choice of coffee, tea and a selection of home-made cakes and biscuits. Delicious.

The sessions are limited to ten but we were very lucky because there was just the two of us which meant we had Will all to ourselves!

After a brief chat with the modest and self-effacing starred chef we went straight into the "engine room" in the heart of La Bécasse for an hour long cookery demonstration.

He has a brigade of six, each with specialities to attend to, and as we watched Will do magic with a breast of lamb they weaved around us preparing for lunch service.

It was nice to know I use the same butcher as Will does for much of his dishes – Andrew Francis just off Castle Square in the centre of town. He is full of praise for the quality not only of the butchers shops locally but also the other produce available.

Some might be put off by the Michelin star aura as perhaps being a little stuffy and starchy. Not so. The demo is executed in a very approachable way and Will is not only an excellent chef, he is also a very likeable person.

After the demo came to an end off we went to enjoy champagne and canapés where we had the opportunity to ask Will any further questions.

Our canapés were the perfect appetiser to our lunch – curried popcorn, salt – cod brandade beignet, moutabal on crouton and anchovy palmier. Interesting combination and light so as not to spoil the main event of lunch.

The dining room is split into little sections and we were shown to a table surrounded by lovely oak panelling and beams. This traditional decor is offset with striped carpet and other contemporary touches.

The tables are well spaced so that you are not subjected to someone else's conversation and there is crisp white linen and shining cutlery and glassware.

A selection of home-made breads arrived including a soft foccacia with rosemary and a moist walnut.

Our appetiser was as light as a snowflake leek and potato veloute with leek and truffle emulsion.

What a start!

Next came grilled fillet and tartar of mackerel, soy caramel, avocado and coriander salad with Wasabi ice-cream.

Quite a mouthful to say and read and you may say a little too complicated. Not so, everything was in perfect proportion and encountering the different flavours was a pleasant voyage of discovery.

The grilled fillet was soft with crisp skin and the tartar a real flavour hit.

Next we had the dish demonstrated by Will – confit of Welsh lamb breast, with a rosemary, garlic and pine nut stuffing and salse verde.

The lamb takes 12 hours to slow cook at low temperature and is sweet and moist. It also came with broccoli and anchovy fillets. What, salty fish with lamb? Try it, you will be delighted.

Our cheese course was a very different take on what we expected. No slices of exotic fromage accompanied by celery and walnuts. This was a Ragstone goat's cheese mousse with ginger bread, mulled wine poached pear and truffle honey mustard dressing.

This was the sort of surprise that makes you sit back and say, wow!

Pudding was liquorice panna cotta with yoghurt sabayon, carrot sorbet and vanilla brioche croutons.

The taste of the panna cotta had echoes of childhood memories of 'bootlaces' – but this time of delicate liquorice flavours.

And don't dismiss the carrot sorbet as a step too far. It's sweetness was a good foil to the liquorice.

We enjoyed coffee and sumptuous chocolate petit fours and managed to earwig a conversation at the next table – we knew just who they were talking about and it wasn't very nice. Free entertainment as well!

Also included in our package was a glass of wine and water.

Now all that costs £75 and with Mothering Sunday coming up I know a few mums who would love it as a treat. In fact I know quite a few foodie dads who would also enjoy the experience.

Themes of the demonstrations will vary each month, with the aim that guests will be inspired by what they see and hopefully trying to replicate what they learn at home!

• A daily lunch menu is served Wednesday to Sunday with two courses £22 and three £26. A la carte and gourmand menus are available Tuesday to Saturday at lunchtimes and evenings.

DAILY LUNCH MENU

Starters

Smoked ham hock and lentil salad with English mustard and shallot dressing and pullet egg; Vanilla and parsnip velouté with saffron poached quince and tarragon.

Main courses

Pan-fried plaice with sage crushed potato, smoked bacon and hazelnut butter; Poached breast and confit thigh of local pheasant with bubble and squeak, black pudding and pheasant boudin.

Desserts

Dark chocolate and smoked tea fondant with banana and balsamic salsa; Pina Colada mousse with coconut sugar, exotic fruit salad and mango and vanilla ice-cream

ATMOSPHERE

Quiet and restrained

SERVICE

Faultless

DISABLED FACILITIES

None

Contact

La Bécasse, 17 Corve Street, Ludlow SY8 1DA. Tel: 01584 872325