Prince of Wales, Shrewsbury

It's been a difficult time for local boozers. Credit crunches mean people pull punches when it's time to get a round in. Pubs that aren't all-singing, all-dancing purveyors of round-the-clock thrills are seeing their profits fall faster than house prices.

In the cash-strapped noughties, landlords that only offer a pie and a pint face the same ignominious fate as an Alan Sugar wannabe.

But one Shropshire local is bucking the trend. The Prince of Wales, in Shrewsbury's ever-so-slightly Belle Vue suburb remains resolutely popular.

It is succeeding while others fail by maintaining high standards. Its beef is first class, the staff are as friendly as a favourite aunt and the surroundings are warm and convivial.

The Prince of Wales is, more importantly, less than a minute from our home. And though we've lived in Belle Vue for some years, we've previously never ventured beyond the threshold. One of the reasons for that is The Prince of Wales' curious opening hours. It serves food from noon until 2pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays and from noon until 3pm on Fridays and Saturdays. Those hours, sadly, coincide with the more important business of work. So, much to our chagrin, we find ourselves earning a crust rather than eating one.

Thankfully, the Prince of Wales also offers traditional Sunday roasts each week from noon until 3pm. So, a few Sundays ago, my wife, daughter and I braved the 60-second walk along Trinity Street for a spot of lunch. We had high expectations, having heard good reports from neighbours and others who've eaten there. And we weren't disappointed.

The Prince of Wales delivered on almost every level. Its staff made us wish we'd visited years before. They greeted us with good humour and warm smiles. The comfortable surroundings were infinitely agreeable and the food - with the exception of the desserts, more of which later - was absolutely fine.

We arrived at the Prince of Wales shortly after noon, eager to enjoy the late sitting in case roast joints had been left sitting in a kitchen for some hours. We decided to eschew any opportunity to experiment and opted for roast beef with all the trimmings.

We enjoyed drinks while we waited and my wife declared herself suitably impressed with a glass of crisp, white wine. Presently, our dinners arrived and our eyes dropped forward on stalks, cartoon-style, as we surveyed the groaning platefuls.

My daughter is an acerbic critic of roast dinners - and most other things - so we waited for the almost inevitable faint praise with which the food would be damned. But, no, this time she ate hungrily. There may even have been a smile on her face.

My wife also relished the dinner and tucked in with gusto. Equally, I thought there was little to find fault in.

The dessert menu offered a rich and varied array of sweet treats. My wife and daughter were so full that they muttered something about maintaining their figures and passed.

Gallantly, I pressed on. Big mistake. The lime and coconut pie that arrived was disastrous. It was almost as if the pub's chef was trying too hard to concoct a fancy dish.

A simple apple pie, fruit flan, or cake and custard would have been far more enjoyable and, evidently, easier to prepare. No matter, I'd got my just desserts by being greedy and ploughing on.

It took us the best part of three years to make our debut at the Prince of Wales. If it offered food during evenings, we'd probably be regulars.

For all the talk of pubs needing to diversify and adapt to attract new customers, the Prince of Wales has found a different formula. It keeps things simple with good, honest food and beer. Unspoiled by progress.

ADDRESS

The Prince of Wales, 30 Bynner Street, Shrewsbury.

Telephone: 01743 343301

www.princeofwaleshotel.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Home-made creamy garlic mushrooms (£2.95) Home-made soup of the day (£2.95)

Main courses

Homemade pie of the day (£3.95); home-made curry of the day (£3.95); fish of the day (£3.95); Sunday roast (£5.50)

Desserts

Home-made tiramisu (£2.50); choclate cheesecake (£2.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Warm and cosy. Just as a local should be.

SERVICE

Attentive. Staff are eager to please and have a genuine sense of bonhomie

DISABLED FACILITIES

There are disabled toilets and staff are always willing to help.

By Andy Richardson