Mad Jack's, Shrewsbury

and a friend head for Shrewsbury town centre and a bustling restaurant.

For the past decade, Ludlow has been imperious as Shropshire's number one destination for great food. Its independent retailers, vibrant market and exceptional eateries have been the envy of other towns across the county.

Ludlow's reputation has been such that it has become synonymous with great food; the sort of town that can happily support a £2 million-plus food centre, regular food festivals and more besides.

Happily, Shrewsbury has taken a leaf out of Ludlow's book and, albeit belatedly, the county town is coming to the party.

A number of new, high-end restaurants have opened and the town now supports an increasing number of independent retailers, from the brilliant Shrewsbury Bakehouse to the more-ish Toot Sweets. A long-established indoor market serves as a showcase for the town's best producers and suppliers; Shrewsbury even has a £2-million-plus food centre of its own, the Shropshire Food Enterprise Centre, on the Battlefield Industrial Park.

Against that backdrop, it seems entirely reasonable to expect the town's existing eateries to raise their game. After all, with vibrant new restaurants at The Lion Hotel, Lion and Pheasant and Casa Naranjo, the competition just got tougher.

Mad Jack's has a fine reputation, having established itself in recent years as being among the leaders of the pack. It has a peerless sourcing policy, with its suppliers reading like a Who's Who of local food. Among those whose produce features at the St Mary's Street eaterie are Corbett's, Wenlock Edge Farm, Walls, Hayford Farm, Jamie Forbes, Aroma Coffee, Troughles Fine Foods, Pendrells and Ensdon Farm.

It remains a vibrant place in which to drink, enjoy a light bite or something more substantial at either lunchtime or during the evening. A new Mad Jack's deli, located directly opposite the eaterie, has also proved an instant hit. Its stock of freshly-baked bread, locally-sourced farm-fresh food, artisan cheeses, biscuits and chocolates, chef's treats and unusual foods from around the world have proved to be a winning formula.

My friend and I visited for lunch on a Saturday and the venue was thronging with locals. There were plenty of Saturday shoppers, taking the weight from their feet with a well-earned glass of vino and plate full of bar snacks, alongside others who were meeting to catch up with friends over leisurely and relaxed lunches.

We were shown to the restaurant area, to the rear of the venue, where a waitress brought us menus to peruse. Amid the welter of locally-sourced dishes, two stood out and my friend and I both opted for the same starter and main. The starter was a confit pork belly served with spinach and black pudding, with a small number of new potatoes. It was a hit. The pork had been well-seasoned, the black pudding added an earthy authenticity to the dish while the spinach and potatoes helped to counterbalance the rich, porky flavours.

The main course, however, was underwhelming. Monkfish fillets served on a pea risotto was a dish that was both confused in its conception and poor in its execution. The risotto seemed as though it was a receptacle for anything left over in the kitchen. Into the mix had gone chilli, deep-fried broad bean pods and . . . peanuts! Why, remained unclear.

The risotto was overcooked, so that there was no al dente texture to the rice, while the monkfish was also woefully overcooked, so that it had become dry and chalky. Had the designer of the dish opted against over-complication, it would have been far better. The spring flavours of the peas in a silky, well-seasoned and well-cooked risotto would have been a considerable improvement.

Service was so-so. Members of the young brigade veered from diligent and attentive to disinterested and just plain bored. A stronger maitre d' overseeing the dining room would have helped bring those into line who clearly had thoughts on other matters.

Mad Jack's remains a reliable establishment that will continue to thrive. It has a good menu, great sourcing policy and there is a good atmosphere in its dining room. But, with other outlets now offering superior food and service, it needs to up its game if it's to remain a front runner, rather than an also ran.

ADDRESS

Mad Jack's, 15 St Mary's Street, Shrewsbury SY1 1EQ

Tel: 01743 358870

Web: www.madjacks.uk.com

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Ragstone goat's cheese parcel (£5.95); Assiette of Bing's Heath salmon (£7.25)

MAIN COURSES

Traditional lamb shepherd's pie, with lamb lolly pops (£14.95); A tasting of Daysdrove pork (£14.95)

DESSERTS

Chilled rhubarb rice pudding with cinnamon shortbread crumble (£4.95); Jaffa cheesecake with orange milk shake (£4.95); A tasting of artisan cheeses to share (£9.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Vibrant and energetic. Mad Jack's is one of the more exciting and lively venues in the town

SERVICE

Below average. The young waiting staff need more training and an experienced maitre d' to watch over them

DISABLED FACILITIES

The venue is split level, but staff assist