Lepone's, Oswestry

was not disappointed when he visited one of his favourite eateries.

Delightful. That's the best way to describe our visit to Lepone's Italian restaurant in Oswestry last Saturday night.

If you are looking for delicious authentic Italian cuisine and a warm, friendly atmosphere, then it is the place to be.

I've rarely been disappointed with the Italian restaurants I've visited over the years and will always search for one if I'm a stranger to a town or city.

I also have to confess that Lepone's has been my favourite since it opened in 2003.

It is my benchmark against which I judge others, so perhaps this review is a little biased!

Owner Paolo Lepone grew up in a small town south of Rome. His parents owned a pizzeria and ristorante and he grew up with a passion for fresh, raw ingredients and well-cooked food.

All the fresh pasta, breads and gnocchi are made on the premises.

It's also worth noting that Lepone's is a member of Ciao Italia, a non-profit-making association which unites Italian restaurateurs around the world. It is an organisation which aims to be synonymous with all that is great about Italian food and culture.

Paolo also runs special cookery classes for people to learn the secrets of his menu.

But back to Saturday night. As ever our expectations were high and they were met.

Kath and I had booked an early table and when we arrived the restaurant was already busy.

We quickly settled in and ordered home-marinaded olives and home-made bread to pick at while we made our choices from the menu. In addition to various pasta and pizza dishes, there is also a wide range of speciality dishes.

Both of us were hungry but Kath sounded a note of caution that I'd better be careful not to fill up on the bread which I just couldn't leave alone. The olives too are just the best.

For starters Kath went for bruschetta (£4.15) while I opted for cestino di capra (£5.95).

The bruschetta - home-made toasted bread with chopped tomatoes, garlic and basil, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil - soon vanished from Kath's plate. She declared it to be delicious.

My choice of cestino di capra was a basket of home-made bread filled with spinach and mushrooms and topped with melted goat's cheese. It was accompanied by salad and after the first taste I knew this dish was a winner.

For her main course Kath selected ravioli al la crema di scampi (£7.95) and I chose spaghetti al la puttanesca. The ravioli had a wild mushroom filling and was topped with a creamy scampi sauce. Again Kath said it was delicious. I was allowed a taste and instantly agreed.

Spaghetti al la puttanesca is a classic Sicilian dish with tomatoes, garlic, parsley, olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil.

This was real comfort food on what was a very cold night. A wonderful warm colour and fantastic taste. Simple and absolutely gorgeous.

Some of the bread that had been brought with the olives still remained, and when Kath wasn't looking I took a piece and mopped up what little sauce was left. Naughty but nice.

Our attentive waiter cleared the plates and asked if we would like to see the dessert menu.

We asked for a short break. Desserts are something we rarely go for but when our waiter returned we decided to give them a go.

And again we both made what turned out to be an excellent choice.We both went for an ice cream (£3.95).

I chose coppa amaretto while Kath tried coppa della casa. I enjoyed every mouthful and was well pleased.

Kath too couldn't have been more pleased with her offering, and rightly so. It was vanilla and pistachio ice cream with fruits of the forest, meringue and Grand Marnier, topped with fruit, fresh cream and crushed amaretto biscuits.

We finished coffee and, feeling rather full after such a good meal, we promised that we would have a brisk walk next day (which we did).

A couple of months ago we enjoyed visits to Florence and Rome. For a while on a bitterley cold evening in Oswestry, it felt as though we were back.

That's Lepone's for you and it's real taste of Italy.

ADDRESS

Leone's Italian Ristorante and Pizzeria, Salop Road, Oswestry SY11

Tel: 01691 659965

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Funghi crema (fresh mushrooms sauteed and served in a creamy garlic sauce) £4.50; Crostino toscano (toasted home-made bread with chicken liver pate) £5.50

MAIN COURSES

Farfalle al salmone (pasta with flakes of fresh salmon cooked in a delicate creamy tomato sauce) £8.45; Calzone (a pizza filled with mozzarello cheese, tomatoes, ham, mushrooms and herbs, folded and oven baked) £7.45.

DESSERTS

Crepes della casa (crepes filled with various ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce and fresh cream) £4.25; Gran sasso (profiteroles - chef's speciality, fillings vary) £4.45

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed, lively and very friendly

SERVICE

Attentive and efficient

DISABLED FACILITIES

Unfortunately Lepone's is on the first floor