Mr Underhill's, Ludlow
Star rating ***** It's dazzled critics for years. But forget critics, Mr Underhill's is the people's choice for consistently fab food in a sublime setting, writes Andy Richardson.
A few short years ago, Shropshire enjoyed the biggest possible culinary success. A county restaurant was named the UK's best by the prestigious Harden's Guide – beating Gordon Ramsay, Heston Blumenthal, Monsieur Raymond Blanc and dozens more.
The Michelin-starred Mr Underhill's, at Dinham Weir, was understandably thrilled. Its owners, Chris and Judy Bradley, were celebrating their 30th anniversary and, in all probability, if they could have chosen one award to win, it would have been the Harden's crown.
Winning the Harden's Award for Best UK restaurant is like winning the Champions League and the Premier League at the same time. It's the ultimate accolade.
There are numerous distinctions offered by a number of guide books around the UK, such as Michelin, but the Harden's Award is the first among equals. The reason for its pre-eminence is simple: it's based on votes from rank and file diners. Unlike other guide books, which adjudicate success on the opinions of cloak-and-dagger critics, Harden's is entirely democratic. There are none of the backroom shenanigans that cloud other ceremonies: none of the 'votes for the boys'. Harden's is the most popular award among restaurants because it's fair, transparent and democratic – and a restaurant from our patch won.
In truth, that came as no surprise to those in the know. Mr Underhills has much going for it. It belongs in a similar league to the UK's finest rural restaurants: like Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons or the Roux families Riverside Inn, at Bray-on-Thames.
Mr Underhill's is situated in one of the UK's most romantic restaurant locations, on the banks of the River Teme, just beneath Ludlow Castle, at Dinham Weir. It has a consistency that is unmatched by rivals – head chef Chris and maitre d' Judy never miss a service – and it offers a unique daily market menu, based on what is seasonal, local and fresh.
Mr Underhill's has a long association with Shropshire. It moved to Ludlow before the town earned its reputation for being the gourmet capital of rural Britain. Back in 2000, when Ludlow boasted three Michelin-starred restaurants and one Michelin Bib Gourmand, Mr Underhill's was among those winning plaudits.
It's remained at the forefront of the county's culinary scene ever since.
Its long history is rather like that formerly enjoyed by Sir Alex Ferguson, at Manchester United. Mr Underhill's has grown with the times. Just as Fergie built a number of different teams during his peerless reign, so Mr Underhill's has effectively built a number of different restaurants.
In recent years, Chris and Judy Bradley have re-invented themselves. Their restaurant has been revamped, they've added luxurious spa rooms and they've invested a small fortune in a new kitchen. Their menu has been revised – those eating there today enjoying a completely different experience from those eating there at the start of the present Millennium.
I'm fortunate to have eaten at the venue throughout its long tenure in Ludlow, enjoying numerous exquisite dinners during more than a decade. It has never failed to thrill. Some years ago, Star readers were told that it offered the best value-for-money of any restaurant in the county and that if they had to, they should save £1 a week until they'd got enough to visit. The same is true today.
Mr Underhill's offers a nine-course degustation menu, giving guests the opportunity to enjoy the best local, seasonal vegetables, fish, meat, fruit and desserts. It embraces new technologies – it's not averse to serving up the sort of culinary fireworks that diners might expect from Heston Blumenthal or the former El Buili, in Spain – but all are underpinned by classic French-inspired techniques.
My friend and I visited for a Sunday evening supper – and were wowed by the food that we ate. We arrived as the sun was starting to set over the picturesque River Teme. Tulips and early spring flowers stood tall and proud in the golden glow of late evening sunshine as water tumbled across the weir. It was an idyllic and romantic setting.
My friend enjoyed a glass of champagne on the terrace, while I began with a sparkling elderflower. We were both seduced by the venue's ample charms.
A small platter of marinated Cuquilllo olives and music paper crisps were enjoyed. We were shown to our table by Judy and a waitress bought a small basket of bread and four mini éclairs of marinated smoked salmon with a white miso glaze. The éclairs were scintillating. They were filled with a delicately smoked salmon, which had been seasoned beautifully with dill. The white miso glaze added a savoury, umami edge. It made for the perfect start.
The next dish to arrive was a white fish veloute with marmalade ice cream. The veloute was rich, creamy and satisfying while the fruity punch of the marmalade ice cream dazzled.
Mr Underhill's serves small, taster-sized portions so that its guests are replete by the end of the evening. There is an avoidance of too much starch – guests don't get full because they're eating bread, rice or potatoes – the small, taster portions are of delicious, expensive ingredients: slow-roasted fillet of Marches beef, asparagus and so on.
Course number four was a small cappuccino-sized vessel containing layers of duck liver custard, sweet corn cream and a lemongrass and ginger glaze. It was my favourite dish of the evening. Unique, full of flavour and blending sweet, savoury and slightly sour: it was a thrill.
Between courses, we had plenty of time to digest our food and chat. The atmosphere in Mr Underhills is friendly and light. It is reminiscent of a French restaurant, where families are welcome and it's non-too-stuffy. Laughter and informality filled the room and guests enjoyed casual conversation with Judy and her team.
Bridgnorth asparagus with a mushroom ravioli, garden herbs and a crispy crumb was course number five, and it was exceptional.
The main event was a slow-roasted fillet of Marches beef, with three, mini braised 'beef burgers', a parsley and anchovy jus, creamy spinach and a puree of leek. The cooking, balance, presentation and flavours were ten out of ten. Small cubes of roasted sweet potato added colour and flavour. The beef melted, the burgers intensely flavoursome.
We enjoyed a break before our pre-dessert – the world's poshest and most exotic Cornetto. A small cone of paper-thin wafer, bottomed off with a rich, deep and dark chocolate layer, was filled with mango and a coconut ice cream. Greedily, I ate mine in one go. Lip-smackingly delicious.
There was a choice of five desserts: my friend choosing poached pears while I opted for a rhubarb tart with a clove ice cream. They were both faultless. The tart was served in the shortest, scrummiest pastry – probably the result of making about 50,000 of them during the past. A tart, piquant rhubarb compote, layer of brulee-ed crème anglaise-like topping and clove ice cream tasted like rhapsody.
The final course was coffee and petit fours, which seemed to go on long into the night. A selection of four fruit sweeties were served first: my favourite was a fruit and vanilla jelly, though the attendant marshmallow, chocolate-dipped raspberry and macaroon were also magnificent.
A plate of chocolate truffles arrived afterwards, which brought the evening to a stunning climax.
Mr Underhill's offers phenomenal value-for-money. Sure, it's expensive by local standards, but it's competing with the world's best restaurants – and charges prices that are around half of those that you'd pay elsewhere.
More than ten years after my first dinner there, it remains a perpetual favourite. Great food, charming service and an exquisite location: it scores 10-10 across the board. Chris and Judy celebrated their 30th anniversary in style, by being named the UK's best: my biggest wish is that they continue to see out their 40th year – I've no doubt they'll achieve further accolades along the way.
ADDRESS
Mr Underhill's Dinham Weir, near Ludlow SY8 1EH
Phone: 01584 874431
