Dishing up trouble at mere

At the centre of the storm is the future of The Boathouse café and restaurant.

The argument, though, has a deeper resonance - the debate about Britain's changing way of life. At the heart of the row is the thorny issue of progress - is it all good or is it sometimes better to remain in the past than be dragged kicking and screaming into the future?

What seems beyond dispute is that The Boathouse, in its present form, will close for good at 5pm on October 28.

Owners, Shropshire County Council and Ellesmere Town Council plan a sweeping renovation of the mereside building - and are inviting tenders for the lease, with a deadline of September 14.

Charles Roberts, who runs The Boathouse, does not wish to leave - but has no intention of tendering.

He acknowledges it is in need of renovation, but has ambitious improvement plans of his own. And his vision for The Boathouse differs radically from that of the local authorities.

A parting of the ways seems inevitable, though Mr Roberts has no intention of going quietly.

In a way you can understand why. He has invested six years of his life - and a great deal of hard work - in The Boathouse. He feels the kind of emotional attachment which is never, ever factored into bottom-line accounting.

The Boathouse today sells traditional cream teas - with a choice of 13 types of tea - fresh coffee, a range of cakes and pastries and cooked meals like lamb and leek pie, ham and eggs and fisherman's platter. It was voted Borderland Coffee Shop of the Year by Heart of England Fine Foods.

It is a far cry from the day that Charles took over the venue in 2001.

"It was in such a run-down state that it took me a week to steam clean the big menu blackboard. One of the items on it read 'Dead Good Soup', which gives you some idea of how it was being run. I have revised the standards to create a popular venue, reaching out near and far."

With such a success story, why is Charles Roberts preparing to leave - and make 14 full- and part-time staff redundant?

The councils - armed with a £2m lottery and heritage grant - plan to transform The Boathouse, adding a visitor centre, heron-watch area and gift shop, but also redeveloping the restaurant.

Charles welcomes the idea of renovation and the size of investment, but believes the current plans will change the restaurant radically into something he wants no part of.

"The gutting of the interior, with multiple entrances made, will make it impossible to control as a restaurant in the way we now operate it. We have one entrance, we can monitor who comes in and out and that way greet every new arrival properly and show them to a table.

"The new plan is more suited to a pay-as-you-go self-service café and takeaway," says Charles, who has visions of a 'McDonald's-style' carry-out. The image of empty styrofoam food cartons bobbing about on the mere haunts him.

The county council's official particulars of tender give no definitive clue as to what is envisaged, saying "the operation can be a waitress restaurant or self-service, or a combination of the two".

However, as a further guide to tenderers, the council says "a 1930s Roadhouse theme for the premises has been suggested".

This is slightly mystifying since the 1930s Roadhouse emerged in the United States deep south, encompassing such establishments as barrelhouses (rough and rowdy roadside bars that sold licquor straight from the barrel), juke joints (bars for blacks only) and honky tonks (bars for whites only).

It is doubtful if this is what the council truly has in mind, particularly when it adds that the "business should cater for a broad range of customers including families and people engaged in outdoor pursuits such as bird watching and walking".

Charles Roberts is also unhappy about plans to demolish The Boathouse's function room, widely used by local organisations such as Ellesmere Model Club, the Knitting Club, Historic Society and MG Car Clubs. Family occasions like wedding, Christening and birthday parties have also been held there.

Charles says he would use the grants to build on what is there already.

"I would certainly add a full-length conservatory to make full use of the views across the mere and ensure that they were utilised all the year round. I would also look at developing a fish restaurant three nights a week.

"I think that the investment is a superb event for Ellesmere. The Boathouse is a tired old lady, 81 years old this year, who needs some tender care. There is so much that can be done, along the lines of what we are doing now, to keep the customers we have and bring in new ones."

What Charles Roberts provides is, probably, rather old fashioned. A tea room with a view, service with a smile, a leisurely sojourn away from the hustle and bustle ,with a soothing background of classical music. The elderly are respected, children are fussed over, families are welcomed. Charles, it seems, has a word for everyone.

And his customers certainly have plenty of words for him.

"First-class food and hospitality," write Alan and Joyce Martin, from Dawlish, Devon.

"Very nice meal, lovely setting," say Betty and Kevin from Sydney, Australia.

"Wonderful - we'll be back," write David and Shirley Jones, from Walsall.

And, perhaps with a 12 year-old's infectious overstatement, Erin Cahill, of Melton, Leicestershire, writes: 'Wow, this is the best place I've ever been to!"

Perhaps, most touchingly, Keith Barnard, from Chippenham, left this message: "What a beautiful place this is. Sixty-one years ago I, with an army friend, had coffee here each morning. It's even better now."

They are among this summer's entries in the visitors' book.

A visitors' book - how genteel and old-fashioned is that? And that seems to be the point at issue.

Which is better: Charles's way, or fast-food self-service where the visitors' book may read: "Fantastic, if synthetic, meal - kids fed and out in three minutes, 42 seconds flat - new record! Home early - indigestion all round"?