The Peach Tree, Shrewsbury

My friend's reaction to the food was almost as noteworthy as the food itself. I'd invited an ardent Shropshire foodie to dinner at the Peach Tree, in Shrewsbury – he wasted no time in sharing his views.

"Oh dear," he said, as he explored the menu. "That's not right." I followed his finger as he pointed to a duck dish. He was quite perturbed.

"Look," he said. "The duck."

I read the description of the dish in question. Duck, orange . . . "Asparagus," he said, as though somebody had spat in his soup. "It's not in season. I won't eat asparagus when it's not in season."

Thankfully, my militant friend could find no other offending dishes to declaim and we were able to make a start. It promised to be an entertaining evening.

The Peach Tree has a loyal following in Shrewsbury and that's well deserved. It's a funky venue, with a stylish dining room and a well-drilled team of staff. The menu is international: taking influences from around the world – some dishes have echoes of Italy, others of Korea, another resonates with Spain while another is redolent of Australia.

The Peach Tree has Shrewsbury's most eclectic menu and my friend and I were able to choose dishes that simply aren't available in other parts of town. I opted for a Korean chicken salad to start. It was served with kimchi, cured Chinese sausage and udon noodles. My friend opted for the crispy baby chorizo with buffalo mozzarella, balsamic roasted onions and toasted pistachios.

We were both delighted. My Italian-phile friend was suitably impressed by the flavours of the Mediterranean that were presented on his plate. Light, creamy mozzarella and sweet, charred onions, drenched in a piquant balsamic dressing danced on his tastebuds. The warm, peppery, paprika-infused chorizo gave body and depth to the plate and soon it was gone.

My Korean chicken salad was similarly impressive. The udon noodles were unctuous and thick, like double-width spaghetti, and all of them had been coated with a sweet and hot chilli dressing. Small squares of cabbage added texture to the dish, while slices of tender, succulent chicken added balance and flavour. Small circles of cured Chinese sausage – like micro chorizo. A scattering of finely chopped spring onions completed the dish, which was served with chopsticks on a small, squared slate. Both dishes were memorable.

There was a short pause before our mains arrived: my friend had ordered beer battered cod and chips while I'd opted for a parpadelle dish. My friend's 'food militancy' soon surfaced, as he regaled me with stories of the world's greatest fish and chips – apparently, they are available in Devon, and who am I to argue? His plate was a riot of colour and playful presentation. The chips were served in a mini chip fryer basket, so that they stood up straight, like sentries on duty outside a castle. My friend tucked into it with gusto, his temporary silence serving as an authentic and unintentional compliment for the dish.

I'd opted for parpadelle, thick ribbons of pasta, that were served with wild mushrooms, gorgonzola, spinach, peas and toasted almonds. I'm fussy about my pasta: but there was nothing not to like about the Peach Tree's dish.

The pasta had been homemade and the ribbons were long and dense. The rich, creamy gorgonzola had melted between the separate ribbons, providing a deliciously intense flavour, while the spinach and peas provided colour, contrast and delightful variation. A scattering of toasted almonds on top of the dish provided further texture and a light, almost milky addition. It was a superb dish.

But I've skipped on too quickly and not told you about the service. The Peach Tree has a close knit team of staff who work hard to keep their customers happy and their service was first class.

I've visited The Peach Tree on numerous occasions and it's almost struck me as being an 'above average' venue. My most recent visit was, by some distance, my most enjoyable yet.

ADDRESS:

18 Abbey Foregate, Shrewsbury SY2 6AE

Tel: 01743 355055

Web: www.the peachtree.co.uk

Rating: 8/10