The Huntsman, Little Wenlock

visits a new star on the dining circuit.

It's great to see in this age of doom and gloom with redundancies, food, petrol and energy price hikes, and the loss of traditional country pubs, that there are still business entrepreneurs out there willing to breathe new life into venues.

And the amount of care, attention, time and money that has obviously gone into reinventing The Huntsman at Little Wenlock has proved more than being just a chance worth taking.

Having known the place for years, and visiting more than once in the past, I was stunned with the transformation on eating there last weekend. It had gone from being a boarded up former family favourite to a beautifully extended, contemporary property that was a pleasure to visit and which looks like becoming hot competition to our county's top eateries.

Bought by Peter Morris of Peter Morris Cars, it reopened its doors during the last week of November, in time to cash in on the Christmas rush.

My partner Simon had watched its rejuvenation over many months while driving past it on his way home from work, and noticing its doors were open he soon suggested we tried it out.

Even its ample car park looked like it had been relayed!

Walking in through its new glass entrance we were warmly welcomed by bar staff. The restaurant was already busy with just a few tables left free, and the aromas coming from the kitchen were very tempting.

After ordering a pint of Peroni (£3.50) and a large glass of red (£4.65), we were shown to our reserved table and handed the menus.

For starters Simon chose Haddock and smoked salmon fishcake with a rocket, tomato and basil salad with lemon creme fraiche. This cost £5.95 as a starter or £11.50 as a main. As soon as I saw scallops on the menu that was my choice (£6.95).

For mains Simon chose a 7oz fillet steak at £22.95, while I ordered the 10oz rump steak at £14.50, accompanied by peppercorn sauce at £1.75.

I have to mention here that the comprehensive menu does have main courses ranging from £8.95 to £13.50 and upwards, so there is something for everyone's pocket. I was also pleased that your vegetables or salad and chips were included, having been offended at times at the cheek of some restaurants following the European trend of asking you to pay for these separately. The menu includes classic British dishes with an emphasis on fresh local produce wherever possible.

Although it was busy we didn't have an over long wait for our first course. Simon's fishcake was very good. He had one generous fish cake, which was full of flavour and nicely complemented by the lemon creme fraiche and his peppery rocket leaves.

I was absolutely delighted with my starter. It was beautifully presented on a long plate, with three small, though perfectly formed! scallops, drizzled with chilli sauce and again with leaves. Both dishes were hot and tasty and satisfying.

Our plates were cleared and after a decent enough wait our mains came. I was delighted with my 10oz rump. I had more than one piece of steak. Simon appeared a little disappointed with the size of his 7oz fillet at £22.95, believing it didn't offer value for money - yet the menu did state a size of 7oz and there were also many other cheaper dishes on offer.

Our meat came with some more peppery rocket in a salad and individual bowls of really big, chunky homemade chips. I wouldn't say there was a lot of them, but there was enough, and they were enjoyable, light and golden and fluffy in the middle. Simon enjoyed his steak and I really enjoyed mine.

Being a tad fussy on steaks, with a habit of cutting off and discarding anything that looks too chewy, here I polished off the lot! It was hot, tender, tasty and moreish, especially accompanied with my peppercorn sauce. This came in a dish and, being a greedy lover of sauce, I could have handled some more, but that's just personal choice.

The puddings menu advertised cheese and biscuits for two at £7.95. Simon wanted cheese and biscuits but I had my eye on the Mango mousse (£4.95). Simon asked if he could have cheese for one and that was no problem, being charged the same as myself. He was happy with his selection and the amount of biscuits (always a sticking point). My mousse was light, with a delicate, enjoyable flavour and there was just enough of it to perfectly end my meal, without leaving me overfull.

We then had coffee at £1.75.

So once again, we left as two happy diners, who, for a few hours at least, had escaped the "doom and gloom" for a touch of foodie indulgence.

ADDRESS

The Huntsman, Wellington Road, Little Wenlock TF6 5BJ

Tel: 01952 503300

Web: thehuntsmanoflittlewenlock.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Crostini of tomato & smoked applewood cheddar, balsamic dressing (£5.50)

Pressed game terrine with seasonal chutney & toasts (£5.25)

MAIN COURSES

Malcolm Wickstead sausages with creamy mash potato and sticky onion gravy (£8.95)

Whole grilled plaice with lime & tarragon butter & buttered new potatoes (£9.50)

DESSERTS

Warm chocolate brownie with winter berries & vanilla pod ice cream (£4.95)

Individual lemon tart with spiced strawberry syrup (£4.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Friendly and bustling

SERVICE

Excellent

DISABLED FACILITIES

Flat access with everything on one level and disabled toilets