The Dhaka, Wellington

visited a special tandoori restaurant and found things were even better than 0n her previous visit.

Back in my student days an Indian meal was a cheap and cheerful way of eating. There were some more sophisticated Indian eateries around but the majority did indeed have flocked wallpaper and rather odd luminous pictures on the wall. And the food was basic.

Today the image has much changed - both in terms of decor and the food. And that's not just in the big cities.

In Shropshire we are spoiled for choice for good quality Indian dining. In Ludlow there is Golden Moments, Bilash in Much Wenlock and Café Saffron in Shrewsbury, among several others.

And in Wellington there is the Dhaka. I ate there about six years ago and was much impressed. It had recently been refurbished and offered top quality service and food.

This month it is celebrating 20 years in Tan Bank and has just been refurbished yet again.

Ultra chic and sophisticated it is a world away from the curry houses of my youth and also not so long ago!

So, the scene was set for what I hope is another good experience.

I went in early on a Monday evening, not a good time in terms of atmosphere as diners are generally few. And with few people to attend to, service can be overpowering. Not here, it is attentive but not in your face with waiters hovering so close they can hear the quietest word.

Dhaka's aim is to provide a stylish, modern and comfortable dining environment where high quality Eastern, Indian and Bangladeshi cuisine, made the traditional way, is served. Classical Indian tradition is used and the restaurant only uses natural ingredients incorporating fresh herbs and spices making the food free from all the artificial additives, preservatives and food colouring. Dhaka Restaurant also uses healthy and low fat ingredients where possible.

Quite a promise to make but if the meal we had is anything to go by one that is fully honoured.

I dined with two eating companions who certainly know a thing or two about Indian cuisine and boy were they bowled over.

Poppadums and dips were ordered as we tried to decide what to eat. Aside from the refurb, there is also a new menu which offers some very interesting dishes - seasonal freshwater fish from Bangladesh, Bengali Ayer fish and a whole host of other specialities.

Alongside were the more popular dishes such as Sagwala, Korma, Balti, Dupiaza and Pathia. They were difficult choices. But eventually we decided and we had a little taste of all our dishes!

Starter one and two were a mixed kebab - a mountain (albeit it very pretty) of sheek kebab, onion bhajee and chicken tikka served with a fresh salad (£5.95).

Starter three was King Prawn Garlic - large king prawns marinated in ginger, extra garlic and mint and a touch of spice (£6.50).

Presentation and content were such that the two 'experts' said little as they savoured the tastes.

Main one was a Dhaka Special Cocktail - a platter of savoury and succulent tandoori delights served with a superb salad. (£11.95).

Pricey you may think? Certainly not for the amount and the standard. Now this was eaten by an 'expert' who I do believe has hollow legs which rarely get filled up - but he was finally defeated and was forced to leave a little.

Main two was a Dhaka Special Biryani - special basmati rice full of prawns and chicken in butter ghee with delicate herbs and spices (£9.95). This was for the second 'expert' who was also a little overwhelmed - pleasantly by the fragrance of the dish and astonished at the quantity.

I had a chicken chilli mossalla - cooked in capiscum and tomatoes with rich spices (£8.95). Best mossalla I have had.

Alongside we had Pilau rice (£2.10), a plain nan (£1.90), a garlic nan (£2.20) and a Keema nan (£2.20). But we really didn't need them!

Now I could bore you with intricate details of the dishes - but why? Suffice to say all the dishes were excellent. And really you should go along to discover the glorious tastes for yourself.

ADDRESS

The Dhaka, 35/37 Tan Bank, Wellington TF1 1HJ

Tel: 01952 243487

Website: www.dhakarestaurant.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Chicken tikka (£3.95); Paneer Tikka (£.95).

MAIN COURSES

Mach Tarkary, seasonal freshwater fish from Bengladesh marinated in spices and herbs and cooked in a medium hot sauce (£9.95); Shahari King Prawn, steamed king prawn in a special Dhaka medium hot sauce with green beans, ginger and onions £12.95

SIDE DISHES

Aloo Gobi (£3.45); Bombay Potato (£3.45)

DESSERTS

A selection of puddings is available

ATMOSPHERE

Chic and contemporary

SERVICE

Faultless

DISABLED FACILITIES

There are disabled facilities