Lepone's, Oswestry

Sue Austin was not let down by the familiar delights of one of her favourite Oswestry restaurants.

Reviewer's rating: ****

Sue Austin was not let down by the familiar delights of one of her favourite Oswestry restaurants.

A table for two – would you like table one to have some privacy? And would you like a bottle of wine on the table?

There really is something to be said for returning to a favourite restaurant where you are known as a reasonably regular diner.

However, more used to visiting Lepone's in Oswestry as part of a large party to celebrate a birthday or at a 'work do', it was lovely to have the chance to go as a couple.

And Paolo Lepone's suggestion of the quietest, window seat, a bottle of wine already open and – my idea – olives and bread on

the table, set the mood for the evening.

Lepones's, run by Paolo and his wife Caroline, is part of the Ciao Italia group of restaurants, priding themselves on offering

authentic Italian cuisine and a true Italian experience.

The olives, home-marinaded, and the delicious home-made bread were just what we needed following our regular Friday night run.

We perused the menu and my resolve not to have a starter soon disappeared.

After ordering it was lovely to be given time to enjoy a glass of wine and olives. And, although it was not Rome or Florence,

having been working away it was lovely to look out at Oswestry during its busiest night of the year from our window seat.

When the first course arrived I was glad I had been brave and not chosen my usual favourite dish of seafood pancake.

My spinach, mushrooms and mozzarella, served in a clever, home made mini bread basket, was excellent, the three ingredients working perfectly together.

Mel did opt for his favourite funghi crema (£4.50). His mushrooms were served in plenty of creamy sauce and like mine came with a side salad. The only quibble was that a piece of bread would be nice to mop the sauce up but thankfully there was still some left from the bread and olives. Both dishes came with a large side salad.

Despite the triumph with the starter I played safe with my main course, my very favourite Nostromo (£8.45) spaghetti with mixed

seafood. Mmmmm – is the best adjective for the dish. There were lashings of seafood, prawns, calamari, mussels and clams and probably others, in a light sauce.

A speciality of Paolo's home region, the coastline nearest to Rome, he explained that it was important to keep the sauce

light with stock, rose wine and just a little tomato so as not to overpower the flavour of the seafood.

Mel's dish was completely different. The veal with parma ham in a bolognese sauce is from Northern Italy where, Paolo explained,

dishes were heavier and meatier because the climate was colder.

Our bottle of house red, not too heavy and resembling a Shiraz, was going down well and I was glad of the jug of water offered

to us. I forgot to ask but I am sure the restaurant must filter its water as Oswestry water doesn't usually taste that soft.

It was a joy having time to enjoy our meal and not feel rushed. The restaurant has two or three tables cleverly screened from

the main dining area by greenery so that while the larger parties are enjoyed the busy Italian feel of the restaurant, others have a quieter time.

When we were offered a dessert, all my resolve had totally disappeared. Mel went for the recommended, cake of the day, a pistachio and cream layer cake with plenty of the delicious nuts.

I really should have tried one of Lepone's new dessert offerings but couldn't resist tiramisu, which no one else in my family likes.

Delicious as it was, when I was given a little of the fig and vanilla ice cream I was gutted. It was amazing and I wish I had

opted for the dessert that incorporates that with amaretti and amaretto.

Although the restaurant is true to its Italian roots, Lepone's uses as much local produce as possible and the Top House Ice

Cream has been a real find. "It is as close to Italian ice-cream that I have found in England," Paolo enthused.

It had been a lovely night. But it was made really special when suddenly out of the window we saw a stunning firework display erupting over the rooftops.

Oswestry was celebrating Christmas, and I was home.

Menu Sample

Starters

Minestrone soup (£4.96)

Carpaccio al salmone (£5.95)

Main courses

Filetto di trota, trout with veg, garlic parsley and white wine (£16.95)

Pizza Pescatora with tuna, anchovies, capers, onions and herbs (£7.50)

Al funghi porcini, mushroom risotto (£9.95)

Desserts

Crepes with chocolate filling (£4.25)

Coppa panna traditional Italian dessert (£3.95)