Da Vinci's, Ironbridge

Nadia Lord opened Da Vinci's in 1996 with husband David.

She is a member of the Verdiani family from a village near Vinci in the Montalbano region of Northern Tuscany, hence the name and style of the restaurant.

"I don't know if I would say it is in my blood or simply through being the only girl in the family and being in the kitchen with two amazing cooks (her mother and her grandmother) but I soon realised that cooking was a passion."

In creating her menu Nadia has selected dishes from all over Italy, and identifies the specific region for the benefit of customers. Some are traditional recipes and some she has adapted from those she has tasted on their travels.Nadia Lord's Tuscan roots show through in a compact restaurant tucked away in Ironbridge's High Street. Da Vinci's has much of the charm and atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria.

The premises looks as if they've been squeezed by the bookend buildings either side. The architecture has a definite vertical stress, with the toilets up a steep staircase, and the overflow restaurant down a flight.

But it does generate a convivial atmosphere, so the layout makes up in sociability what it lacks in intimacy.

It is not fast food. The Italians, like the French, take dining out seriously with a definite leaning towards the long and the languid.

The leisurely beat of slow cooking was counterbalanced by David (the meeter and greeter, waiter, sommelier and cloaks superintendent) who carried out his duties at a remarkable pace, yet still found enough time to chat, answer questions and explain things the whole night long.

We booked in at 7.35pm, enjoyed pre-dinner drinks, three courses, coffees and almond biscuits (cantucci, I think) and before we knew it, it was 10.50pm. Any satisfying experience, like a visit to Da Vinci's, should not be rushed.

There are 30 covers at the restaurant, split between the ground floor and the lower dining area so not ideal for large parties. Our table was at the foot of the stairs, and near the entrance door so, as I say, any sense of intimacy and seclusion was compromised.

We began with tonic water (although Libby had a gin with hers) and read the extensive, fully explained menu. The antipasti choices, the pastas (which could have been ordered as mains with £5 supplement), the secondi, then the desserts. A lot to chew over.

There were a couple of extras, such as duck, and a couple of choices were all taken (like sea bass).

I started out with the wild mushroom flan (Polpettone ai funghi) at £7; I was tempted by the sliced pork loin with polenta until I saw it was £9. But I was charmed by the flan and its distinct taste. The mild ricotta cheese and light tomato sauce went well with the flan, the woody porcini mushroom taste coming through perfectly.

Libby was delighted with her roasted red pepper stuffed with tomato, red onion, garlic and anchovy and drizzled with basil pesto (£7). It may sound like flavour over-load but the combination was punchy without being head-banging.

You have to realise that this course was preceded by complimentary marinated olives and pane basso bread (baked by Wedges of Broseley) so I had thoughts of not staying the distance. The dip for the bread was exquisite (marinated diced olives, of course).

The leisurely pace was just what we needed and when the mains arrived we were both ready. I'd selected fillets of red mullet fried with courgette strips and served with tomato and basil sauce (£17). I like mullet and Da Vinci's chef treated it with due reverence. There were several carefully cut fillets covered in the minimum of flour and fried ever so lightly. The result was subtle fish flakes still with all its flavour but with a hint of crunchiness from the flour coating. Va bene.

Libby had the duck from the specials choice (£17). Thick slices, cooked pink and served with green beans, spinach and chestnuts. The duck had been expertly cooked, and flavoured with marsala, a light Sicilian sherry, so no trace of the fattiness associated with this bird. The accompanying veg, carrots, fennel and spinach, went perfectly.

I must refer to the side dish of small potatoes. They looked fairly mundane, but wow. Super. They had been lightly cooked, tossed in olive oil and flavoured with sage. "Potatoes to die for, shouldn't be allowed" was the comment in the visitors' book, which summed them up accurately.

The restaurant was full by now and several potential customers had earlier been turned away, such is Da Vinci's popularity. David had to inform the late callers that booking on Fridays and Saturdays was essential.

The food was impeccable, the portions were spot on, and the complete absence of rush meant we drifted unerringly into ordering desserts.

I just had to try the chocolate and chestnut truffle with hazelnut ice cream and coffee syrup (£6). I think there were five of my favourite indulgences there. It was indescribably nice, particularly the hazelnut after-taste in the ice-cream.

Across the table Libby was almost silenced by her £5 cheese selection - Dolcelatte with grapes and olive oil crackers.

Then it was time to sit back, note the Mona Lisa portrait looking down on us, the potted olive trees in the bay window and the unusual flora art painted on the aged wooden floorboards. Just about all that was missing was the warm, Tuscan night air.

It was a pretty satisfactory evening and although given four stars, it should really be four-and-a-half as there was very little we could find fault with.

Da Vinci's does not provide fine dining on a budget, as the £81 bill for the evening indicates, but it was worth every penny.

Additional points include: vegetarian dishes are marked and lactose and gluten-free pasta is available. The menu is changed frequently. The Puglian and Tuscan olive oil used in the restaurant is available to buy, and Da Vinci's was awarded a Time to Breathe certificate before non-smoking restaurants became fashionable.

Da Vinci's, 26 High Street, Ironbridge

01952 432250

It is open Tuesdays to Saturdays, 7pm "until late".MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Fresh buffalo mozzarella with basil, ripe marmande tomato and marinated aubergine (£7);

Baby octopus with peppers & salad (£7.50)

Main courses

Roast butternut squash with braised aubergine, tomatoes & melted smoked Scamorza cheese(£14);

Fresh sea bass with lemon & rosemary, roasted with Borettane onions and mixed salad (£17)

Sides

Rocket and Parmesan salad (£4)

Spinach and Parmesan gratin (£4.50)

Desserts

Warm apple & blackberry cake with mascarpone (£6)

Venetian lemon cake with ice-cream & figs in marsala (£6)

ATMOSPHERE

Refined, yet cheery

SERVICE

Excellent. All staff attentive and knowledgeable

DISABLED FACILITIES

Stairs, limited space. Not suitable for wheelchairs

Smoking policy

Non-smoking throughout

by Rex Key