The Armoury, Shrewsbury

For several years, I've numbered The Armoury among my favourite Shropshire pubs,

. Good service, a jazzy menu, locally-sourced food and reasonable prices come with the territory.

There's more about The Armoury to like. On weekends like those we've experienced in recent times, when the sun blazes down late into the evening and almost everyone in town dresses up in their finest threads, it becomes a mecca for those who like to socialise.

Sitting on the side of the River Severn, it has a perfect location for diners or drinkers looking to enjoy good food and chat in attractive surrounds. Its interior is ever thrilling. With comfortable chairs, acres of space and books galore, it still retains much of the character that it would have had during its 18th century heyday.

My wife and I have eaten there many times, it's a regular treat at all times of year and rarely disappoints. So, when Shrewsbury scorched in 70F-plus temperatures, and as the smells of barbecues filled the air, we made the short walk through The Quarry to one of our favourite destinations.

The menu is updated each day, depending on what's available at market and what mood the chef's in. Service is brisk but unfussy – diners collect their own menus from the bar and place orders there, before repairing to the dining room to eat.

The venue prides itself on better-than-average selection of wines and whenmywife made her usual request for a glass of Chardonnay, she was offered a number of different vintages.

And so to dinner . . . My wife opted for the smooth chicken liver pate with red onion jam and granary toast while I selected the duck and leek hash with watercress. Both dishes were whizzed out to us in next-to-no-time. We wondered whether the chef had, perhaps, just graduated from the University of Telepathy and divined our menu by some sort of cosmic fluke.

Both dishes, however, were underwhelming. We've grown accustomed to high quality at The Armoury and our starters, though pleasantly presented, were poorly seasoned and a little bland.

The main courses were far better, though still presented room for improvement. My wife selected a perennial favourite, the smoked haddock and salmon fishcakes with a tomato and spring onion salad. She enjoyed it, though, again, felt it lacked a little seasoning.

My 8oz steak burger with grilled bacon and cheese, served with coleslaw and chips was again pretty good. The burger was served with a deliciously piquant and hot chilli-style tomato sauce and the best chips this side of Heston Blumenthal's gastro pub. The burger was also impressive, though would have been more moist and tasty if it had spent a minute less on the char grill.

As we'd been eating, we'd watched desserts being ferried to neighbouring tables and decided that we ought to stick around. My wife selected a variety of sorbets and ice-creams and enjoyed them thoroughly. I was mightily impressed with the Belgian waffle, its hot, sticky, caramelised exterior was the perfect counterpoint to a rich chocolate sauce and smooth vanilla ice cream.

At the end of our dinner, I found myself in a quandary. I've long rated The Armoury as one of the county's finest dining pubs and felt a tinge of disappointment that it had failed to impress. I felt as though I'd been out to see a favourite uncle or aunt, only to find they weren't at home.

There wasn't much wrong with our dinner that couldn't have been put right with greater attention to detail and a little more care. The portions were generous without being absurdly large, the ingredients were all deserving of their place on the menu and there was ample choice. The service was up to the usual high standard.

Perhaps my expectations should have been lower.

Yes, The Armoury offers great views and a buzzy atmosphere, as well as a cracking selection of beers, wines and whiskies. Yes, the food was good value for money. But, sad to say, it was underwhelming and distinctly average. It didn't offend, it didn't make me laugh at the chef's fallibility and it didn't put me off for life.

I'll be back with hope and expectation that standards will have returned to their former imperious level.

The Armoury has been subjected to a critique from this correspondent on previous occasions and scored impressively, notching up four out of five. This time, unfortunately, despite good service and fine ingredients, the food wasn't quite up to scratch. A twist of pepper here, a sprinkle of salt there and it'll be back up to four. But, for now, it's close, but no cigar.

ADDRESS

The Armoury, Victoria Quay, Welsh Bridge, Shrewsbury SY1 1HH

Tel 01743 340525.

www.brunningandprice.co.uk/armoury

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Warm pigeon breast, bacon and beetroot salad with a port and cinnamon dressing £5.45; Grilled fresh mackerel with a Caesar potato salad £5.55

MAIN COURSES

Ham, free-range eggs and chips £9.75; Deep fried haddock in beer batter with chips, mushy peas and tartar sauce £11.95

DESSERTS

Parkin pudding with a whisky custard £5.75; Vanilla crème brulee £4.95

SERVICE

Excellent. Bright and breezy. Young waitresses are efficient and friendly.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Access is made tricky by a flight of steps to the front