Christy's Ristorante, Newport

Reviewer's rating: ***

I first came across the new Italian restaurant in Newport during a phone conversation with a very excited Samantha Redmond.

She was contacting us for a news story to say she was opening her first restaurant - onto my list of potential reviews it went.

We visited on a cold Saturday night - and took a chance. Without the phone number to book we just turned up, despite it being the last weekend before Christmas.

On arrival I recognised the excited voice of the woman who greeted us - it was certainly the owner - professional, smart and very welcoming.

With several of the tables already taken, we were given a choice of the remaining restaurant. It was nice to be given a choice as so often diners are shown to a table but never brave enough to ask to sit somewhere else.

Although traditional Italian music was being played in the background, I was disappointed that it looked so 'cafe-like'.

A few paintings on the wall to brighten up the decor and a smart table cloth on the tables could have made all of the difference.

We were offered drinks while we perused the menu and then served some warm Italian bread.

These may seem picky things to point out but they will all improve the dining experience - some vinegars and oils to accompany the bread would have gone down a treat (and also a side plate!)

For starter I ordered the warm wild mushroom tart - it was a generous portion but only just warm it was. It was tasty but far from homemade - a few more 'homemade' introductions to the dishes on the menu would have given an improved first impression.

My husband started off with the sauteed garlic prawns which were served in a tomato sauce on bruschetta. They got the thumbs up - and were served hot and were plentiful.

When I get to an Italian menu I usually want everything - pizza, pasta, meat, vegetables. I am always spoilt for choice but at Christy's I wasn't and found myself only tempted by the lasagne.

This may have been personal choice but after discussion John and I decided perhaps it was better that the new restaurant hadn't bitten off more than they could chew!

It is better to get a limited menu right than a huge menu totally wrong.

But I was disappointed to see pizzas missing from an Italian menu, although since our visit I believe the owner had added them on.

The lasagne was served hot in a generous portion (although I did order home cut fries to go alongside) with a good helping of sauce but I did find it a little dry with the pasta layers a little stodgy.

I got the feeling it was microwaved and the surrounding tomato sauce added after but perhaps it needed more sauce while being created.

It was presented nicely but was far from being the best I had tasted. I think what it really needed was an Italian flair or perhaps an Italian chef.

John went for a "specials" option which was sausage with pasta. Again it wasn't so bad he couldn't polish it off but he did say he wished he had gone for the meatballs as "you can't go wrong with meatballs".

We were both too full for dessert despite a neighbouring table who had the cheese board tempting us.

It was a generous portion and looked like it had a good selection of cheeses on.

Fellow diners were saying goodbye to Samantha as if they were old friends, which was nice considering the short time she has been open.

Others we overheard reciting what they had had "the last time" so it is obviously a place which is attracting diners again after their first visit.

Samantha's attitude, enthusiasm and overall "front of house" ability deserves five stars every day of the week but I just feel her chef's talents are not quite up to her ambitions - more taste is definitely needed.

Italian restaurants are also renowned for their open kitchens and clay pizza ovens.

Samantha has since explained to me that she desperately wanted a clay oven but the size of the kitchen wouldn't allow - a real shame.

The restaurant does have an open kitchen but sadly it looks just like any other restaurant with a host of stainless steel equipment.

It lacked the Italian language and the noisy, flamboyant, busy open kitchen which I have so often seen at other Italian restaurants.

I do think that because there is nothing special to be seen by diners in the kitchen it would be better hidden.

The tables covered with smart cloths would transform it into a restaurant rather than a café-style eaterie.

I really hope Samantha does well in Newport because she has vast experience in catering and the enthusiasm to succeed, but personally I'd like to see a chef with a bit more experience - especially in the culinary delights of Italy.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Arancini di Riso (£4.75)

Antipasto Misto (£5.50)

Main courses

Spaghetti con Polpette (meat balls, spaghetti and marinara sauce) £9.75

Tagliolini in Brodetto di Pesce (egg tagliolini, prawns, clams and fresh tomato, reduced fish sauce) £9.75

Sides

Bruschetta (£2.25)

Pane Misto (mixed breads) £2.50

Desserts

Tiramisu (£4.75)

Torta di Mele (£4.75)

ATMOSPHERE

Comfortable and welcoming.

SERVICE

Friendly, polite and efficient.

DISABLED FACILITIES

No steps to the restaurant and plenty of room for wheelchairs.

Contact

Christy's Ristorante Italiano, Stafford Street, Newport. Tel: 01952 289115