Woodman, Claverley

****

It was not the serried rank of gaily-coloured wellies, or the huge sculpture of a woodcutter's axe which made the biggest impression. It was the packed dining area.

It was a Wednesday night, it was blowing a gale and the country was apparently sliding down the recession tube.

But here was a recently-opened restaurant packing them in. Was it the last supper for some? Certainly Emma and Tim Hodgkinson were doing something right – or, more likely, they were doing everything right.

The proof of the eating is in the pull-in, as one might say, and the Woodman Country Pub and Brasserie at Danford Lane, Claverley, is certainly drawing in the diners.

My wife and I had rather chanced our luck and driven out into the countryside along the 'rabbit run' without booking first. I would not expect many restaurants are overwhelmed with custom mid-week but as we arrived we saw through the windows that many of the tables at the Woodman were already occupied.

Tim greeted us and, thankfully, said they had a table available – it was the last table not booked for that evening. Phew, that was close.

Wine was served via shiny measuring cups and we were taken to our table. Tim provided the menu and related that the soup that evening was leek and potato.

The menu runs to just one page, but it's a full page of fairly small print, so take your reading glasses and take your time. There are eight starters, including smoked salmon and, for the vegetarians, mushrooms in a cream herb sauce served with toast.

Mussels may be the poor man's oysters but I tend to put scallops in the same boat, as it were. The Woodman scallops cost £6.50 so not cheap but they can be dreamy – and these were excellent. They were lightly pan-seared, just enough to warm them through without compromising the soft, moist texture and lovely hint of sea salt.

They were partnered perfectly with minted peas.

Often I find myself envying my wife's choice but her eggs Benedict – a soft-poached organic egg (yes, I know, all eggs are organic but these are not stuffed with chemicals) with smoked bacon on a toasted muffin (bap) with a creamy, Hollandaise sauce would not, apparently, match the excellent scallops. Libby's verdict was "so-so" although it was attractively presented.

I was beginning to wonder how much of my whole sea bass with herb butter (£13.95) I would manage, especially as I'd dived into the chunks of fresh, brown and white bread even before the starters had arrived.

There wasn't to be a problem however as it was a sensible, moderate size and in fact I was able to boast that I had caught bigger bass myself at Ynyslas.

I had not, however, cooked any better than this one. It was beautifully moist (not usually when I grill them) and with the distinct sea flavour. The herb butter was strong without being overpowering and the veg (carrot and swede mash, broccoli and onions) just right. Add in the traditional, chunky, hand-cut, golden brown chips and you will gather I was more than happy.

It was also fish across the table where Libby was very impressed with her salmon and creme fraiche ravioli in a cream herb sauce (£10).

The bite-sized salmon parcels were excellent with a gorgeous flavour and the whole meal worked very well. It was, she observed, almost worth buying a pasta maker if she could produce ravioli as good as this.

As things were going so well we cast calorie caution to the wind and ordered a dessert to share. The boozy bread and butter pudding with a Grand Marnier sauce (£4.50) seemed a good bet although only being allowed to eat half of it didn't seem right some how.

I had an excellent espresso and Libby some sort of raspberry tea. Also a couple of biscuity things called tiffin. Nice all round, and only just over £50.

Looking round at the full restaurant it was obvious that Emma and Tim have worked wonders in the few short months since they took over the Woodman. They emphasise that they use local (and therefore fresh) products where possible. Even the coffee comes from the Shropshire Coffee Company, although I think it is actually based just over the border.

Whatever I might say, it is the level of bookings which gives the clearest indication of how good things are now at the Woodman – so make sure to book.

PS. And to answer the regular question from my friend "pipe Peter", they serve cask conditioned ales.

By Rex M. Key

MINI GUIDE:

Sample starters: Chicken Caesar salad (£4.50), Pan of mussels (£4.95)

Main courses: Rack of lamb with herb crust in red wine gravy (£13.95), 8oz rib-eye steak with grilled tomatoes and buttered mushrooms (£11.50)

Desserts: Profiteroles with cream and chocolate sauce (£4.50), Lemon and mascarpone cheesecake (£4.50)

Atmosphere: Bright and cheerful

Service: Friendly and efficient

Disabled facilities: Just about room for wheelchairs. No toilets for the disabled.

Contact: The Woodman, Claverley WV5 7DG. Tel: 01746 710553 www.thewoodmanclaverley.com