Stiperstones Inn, Snailbeach

Star rating: **** Andy Richardson is genuinely heartened when he rediscovers the delights of one of the county's culinary treasures.

THE question that people ask most frequently is this. Where are the three best places to eat in Shropshire? My answer is always the same. "Mr Underhill's, Mr Underhill's and Mr Underhill's."

The Ludlow restaurant, run by Chris and Judy Bradley, is in a league of its own. But, after visiting The Stiperstones Inn with my wife and daughter, maybe I should reappraise.

Of course, The Stiperstones' simple, honest grub can't hold a light to the extravagance on offer at Ludlow's Michelin-starred gourmand's paradise.

Nor, indeed, can the youthful waiters match the peerless service offered by the faultless maitre d' at the Ludlow establishment, Judy Bradley.

But, The Stiperstones is to pubs what Mr Underhill's is to fine dining. It is authentic, unfussy and stylish. Customers invariably leave with a desire to return. We've now eaten there on four occasions and every time we've vowed to go back. It's at the top of our list of venues to take visiting friends, keen to sample Shropshire's hills and pubs.

The Stiperstones Inn is, quite simply, one of the county's treasures.

The Stiperstones is set high in the Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. It is an idyllic rural venue, unchanged by time. Its external walls are whitewashed, there's a roaring log fire, a cat named Skittles will rub your legs in search of attention - there's even an outside loo for the men.

But it's not just the venue that inspires affection. The people who run it, and their staff, are genuinely warm. They welcome locals and visitors alike with kindness and humour.

Because of them, The Stiperstones Inn is like a home from home. Whether you're visiting for the first time, or making your 1,000th visit, you'll feel as though you've just stepped into your very own local.

We made our most recent visit on a Saturday evening, and it was as enjoyable as our first visit, some years ago. The menu seldom changes - there's no reason it should. It's an A-Z of honest, traditional British pub food - from steaks to Madras, from lasagne to sausage and chips.

All meals are served with salad, seasonal vegetables, jacket potato, roast potatoes, rice or full salad. And there are ample extras, like onion rings, which usually cost an extra £1. The Stiperstones Inn is nothing if not good value. Dishes usually cost around £6. The menu also contains a caveat to warm the hearts of all fledgling Bunters: "If you are very hungry, ask for a larger portion at no extra cost!" We were hungry, but knew from experience that our stomachs would be more than satisfied with regular portions. My wife opted for half a chicken, with salad and chips.

My daughter went for the ever-so-tasty lamb shank in minted gravy, while I went for a barbecue beef rib. We were all delighted.

The chicken was crisp and more-ish, the lamb tender so that it slid from the bone, and the beef rib was utterly delicious. I'll have it again, next time we visit.

We all vowed not to have desserts. But, of course, we changed our minds just as quickly. My wife and daughter shared the whinberry crumble with ice-cream. The dish was made with tart, sticky whinberries picked from local hills. I opted for the apple-and-raspberry crumble, made from fresh Bramleys and locally picked raspberries.

There were other selections to tempt us, including a towering Victoria sponge, made that day, and an old fashioned golden suet pudding, steamed and coated with golden syrup and topped with stem ginger.

The next time someone asks about the best place to eat in Shropshire, I'll still tell them Mr Underhill's.

But I'll make sure I tell them about The Stiperstones Inn, too. It is, in my humble opinion, the county's best.