The Lion, Priorslee

finds an oasis in a former coaching inn just a step from the busy A5.

It is a rare occasion when food takes a bit of a back seat in a dining-out review.

Most people will come to the natural conclusion that the meal itself should form a central part of the article.

And of course, the food at the Lion Inn at Priorslee was superb.

But the overall experience is what jumped to front of my mind when I sat down to compose these 600-odd words.

The Lion is sat on what used to be a main route through the county and was, once, a major coaching inn on the A5.

It still retains much of that character, with brass plates adorning the walls and a cosy cottage feeling to the whole building.

Claire and I arrived at 5.30pm on a busy bank holiday afternoon and didn't realise we would have to wait around 30 minutes for the food service to begin.

This wouldn't usually be a problem, but with a hungry two-year-old looking to cause chaos, we feared the worst.

In fact, we needn't have worried.

Beyond the rear doors there was an oasis that meant the wait passed by in no time at all.

The beer garden – or should I say play garden – was an unexpected pleasure for Louis, with a bouncy castle and all sorts of climbing equipment.

The new landlady took over from the previous long-term incumbent just under a year ago and has already made her mark.

Indeed, the rear garden is just one example of that.

There is a normal drinking and smoking area, of course, with barbecue stand and that all-important play area. The interior of the pub has received a subtle refurbishment, with much of the food served in the bar area. A games room now occupies the former dining room.

It certainly makes a difference and generates a healthy atmosphere throughout.

So now, a mere 300-odd words after starting the review, it seems a good time to mention the food.

The food service was not quite as structured as typical chain pubs, with the staff on duty performing a "jack of all trades" trick.

This wasn't a huge problem, even with a large bank holiday crowd at the bar.

To begin, I chose the chicken liver pâté with onion jam, while Claire opted for leek and potato soup. Both were divine.

My pâté was deliciously soft with a very strong flavour, while the onion jam added much-needed sparkle.

Claire's soup, which came with crusty bread, deserved a similar verdict.

It was thick and packed to the brim with smoky flavours.

During our meal, our younger child Luca was keen to express himself in the loudest way possible. Any parent of a 10-month-old will know how much this can disrupt a meal.

Thankfully, the landlady was glad to keep him amused while we ate – in some ways, it was a bit of a lifeline.

Despite a growing crowd at the bar, she was determined to let us enjoy our meal in relative peace. This, above all else, was muchappreciated.

While Louis busied himself with chicken nuggets and the requisite beans, Claire had gammon steak for her main course.

I, meanwhile, had chicken and chorizo with dauphinoise potatoes. It originally came with mushroom sauce, but staff were more than happy to change it to peppercorn.

Claire's gammon was virtually devoid of any fat and thudded onto the table at what seemed to be about two inches thick. Looks certainly did not deceive – she ended the meal very satisfied indeed.

My chicken with chorizo was just as enjoyable. The breast of chicken meat was smeared in a delicious sauce and accompanied by incredibly tasty potatoes.

The entire visit cost just under £40, which considering the assistance we received during our meal – not to mention the play garden – was hugely impressive value.

And even though some changes have been made, the Lion has still held on to that famous character.

ADDRESS

The Lion, Shifnal Road, Priorslee, Telford TF2 9NN

Tel: 01952 290797

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Grilled goats cheese & pine nut salad - £3.95; Garlic mushrooms - £3.95

MAINS

Beer battered fish and chips - £8.65; Beef lasagne - £8.95

DESSERTS

Home made apple pie - £3.75; Home made crumble (choice) - £3.75

SERVICE

Cannot be faulted, although the one person serving food seemed to be in charge of almost everything

ATMOSPHERE

Very lively, without being too noisy. Still enough room for a quiet conversation

DISABLED ACCESS

There are disabled toilets, with wheelchair access to all areas