Shropshire Star

Restaurant Severn, Ironbridge

Reviewer's rating ***** Lisa Bailey takes a chef's advice and braves the swirling snow for a night out to remember.

Published
Reviewer's rating ***** Lisa Bailey

takes a chef's advice and braves the swirling snow for a night out to remember.

We were chatting to a neighbour of ours - a chef - about places to eat and he said his all-time favourite was Restaurant Severn in Ironbridge. So, we thought he may know what he was talking about and decided to give it a go one Friday night.

The snow was falling when we arrived at the restaurant and who can beat the perfect setting with the Iron Bridge as a backdrop? A sign outside said that the restaurant was booked up for the Saturday and the Sunday. We walked into the cosy reception area, which was very inviting after coming out of the wintry weather.

We pondered the Harmony menu while we were brought hors d'oeuvres by the manager. They were olives, gherkins and mini sausages and mash (in no way does my description do the sausages justice - they were delicious).

Restaurant Severn is closed on a Monday and Tuesday. On a Wednesday or Thursday it offers two courses for £22.95 or three courses for £24.95. On a Friday two courses for £25.95 or three courses for £27.95. On a Saturday three course option only for £27.95.

The restaurant is run by Eric and Beb Bruce who say their style of cooking blends classical French and British techniques with nuances of fusion cuisine. They use the best local regional British produce along with seasonal vegetables, fruits, herbs and salad items grown on their own smallholding.

Restaurant Severn is small, but with a wonderful atmosphere and intimate. You never felt that the table next to you was intrusive.

For starters I had the black pudding with chorizo sausage, bacon and hen's egg and Neil chose the scallops. This was a bit of a role reversal for us because normally I've always the first one to have fish.

I could not fault my starter as the soft poached egg's yolk poured out nicely over the black pudding, which had a rich sauce with it. Every mouthful was a delight. Neil was equally pleased with his scallops, which were chunky and tasty. The sauce with my black pudding was superb with the homemade bread popped onto the table.

Then it was onto the main course - I chose a particular favourite of mine - Breast of Gressingham duck. It was served with an apricot sauce.

Neil went for the Fillet of Beef Wellington baked in homemade puff pastry. Both were served with broccoli, carrots and cauliflower.

The duck was perfect - slightly pink in the middle and the sweet apricot sauce complemented it. The portion was ample and with a few of the vegetables I was getting full.

There was silence across the table, which is always a good sign that Neil's enjoying his meal. The beef was again cooked to perfection and combined with the pastry was delicious. He managed a few more of the vegetables than I had.

There was a small break after the main course which was just enough time to muster up the space for a dessert (and to also eye up what desserts the other tables were having!). I went for the dark Belgium chocolate torte, creme fraiche and chocolate swirl, which was out of this world. The torte was to die for and the creme fraiche was just the right texture with the torte.

Neil chose sticky toffee pudding, homemade vanilla icecream and fudge sauce. Again there were no complaints - I think at one stage I was begrudgingly offered a taste. But, I declined.

On its website Restaurant Severn says Ironbridge has food to match the views and you can certainly see why the restaurant was awarded 2 AA Rosettes in the 2009 Guide and recommended by the Michelin 2009 Guide.

The whole evening was perfect from beginning to end - the manager Debbie was a delight to chat to, the service was exceptional and the food went beyond that. The icing on the cake was the handmade petit fours served with tea and coffee.

ADDRESS

Restaurant Severn, High Street, Ironbridge TF8 7AG

Tel: 01952 432233

Website: www.restaurantseven.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Smooth chicken liver and malt whisky parfait with red onion marmalade and Melba toast; Warm goat's cheese tartlet with dressed salad leaves and roasted pine nuts

MAINS

Three flavours of Wenlock Pork with apple sauce and crispy crackling; Shropshire Venison, cognac and sundried cranberry sauce with braised red cabbage

DESSERTS

Traditional Madagascan vanilla creme brulee with Viennese shortbread; Roasted plum and almond tart with bramble panacotta

ATMOSPHERE

Intimate and inviting

SERVICE

Exceptional

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