The Habit, Bridgnorth

Reviewer's rating **** Cathy Stanworth revisits an old haunt and found the experience grew on her immediately.

I think it must be a sign of encroaching middle age to find yourself believing you're going to visit somewhere new only to discover you have been there before . . . more than a couple of decades ago.

As soon as I saw the frontage of The Habit as my partner Simon drove past the place in search for a free parking space in East Castle Street, I said: "Oh, but that's The Golden Ball", closely followed by "Why are you driving up here? You'll never be able to park."

My excuse for not initially recognising it is that I moved away from the area a long time ago. And the venue is a long, long way from what I remembered it as. One of the oldest pubs in Bridgnorth, it was just a normal English pub/hotel with round tables and red leather bar stools when I used to meet a group of friends there in the week . . . but you should see it now.

With flagstone and original oak floors, modern panelled walls, attractive dimly lit tables and chairs and one of the most attractive Ladies loos I've had the pleasure of visiting, (complete with circular glass hand bowl and a swathe of Organza I think? over the radiator), the decor was a revelation.

I had booked a table after finding The Habit on the web, while surfing for dining inspiration.

The pictures on its website were a lot different from what it was like in reality. They showed colourful walls and abstract artwork, while we walked into a venue that was more beige and wood.

I found out the following week that the website needed updating after new owners Robert and Maria Bramhill bought the place nine months ago.

Maria is a Brazilian who has lived in Britain for 23 years. The Habit is their first restaurant, and, before moving into the hospitality industry, Robert worked as an engineer and Maria was a dental technician.

Since arriving they have redecorated inside and out, she said. On the staff front I personally think one of their best decisions was to employ their head chef Josh Davies.

After parking behind Bridgnorth Library we just had a very short walk up to the restaurant. We were welcomed by whom I now guess was Robert. After ordering a couple of drinks - a large glass of red wine (£5.70) and a pint of lager (£2.85), we were shown to our table and handed the menu.

Looking at it I quickly realised this wasn't the cheapest menu in Shropshire. In fact it was the first time dining locally that I'd seen a starter costing £8.95 - I know somewhere you can get a pub meal main course for that.

However the menu was absolutely mouth-watering and I was hungry. For starters I ordered Smoked Salmon Salad, Coriander & Rocket Salad, Capers & Lemon (£7.95), while Simon chose Pan Fried Scallops, Black Pudding, Saffron Dressing and Minted Pea Puree (£8.95).

Feeling in full carnivore mode, for my main I opted for Pan Fried Steak with Wild Mushrooms, Hand Cut Chips and a Choice of Sauces (Peppercorn, Blue Cheese or Cafe D' Paris Butter - I ordered Blue Cheese) (£15.95). Simon went for Cannon of Monkfish with Bacon Lardons, Tomato Dressing & Saute Potatoes (£15.95).

We saw from the menu that The Habit was one of those restaurants where you had to pay for your vegetables separately. I must say that we both, like a lot of local diners, believe veg should be included in your main. While on the continent it is the norm to pay extra for your greens, we are in Britain, thank you very much. However, we ordered a portion of vegetables (£1.95) and a portion of homemade chips (£1.95).

I was very pleased when our starters arrived. They both looked gorgeous. My dish was light and delicious, exactly what I wanted before embarking on a steak. I had good smoked salmon on very fresh, tender leaves and the capers and lemon added that perfect little zing to the dish. Lovely.

Simon said his starter was really good. He said the black pudding appeared to be homemade as there wasn't a lot of fat in it and the scallops were perfectly cooked.

And when my main course was put before me I was in heaven. It was a good, round medium fillet steak, nicely darkened on the outside and velvety and pink in the middle. It was effortless to cut through and packed with good meaty flavour. Absolutely delicious. I would eat this every night of the week if I could. My sauce came in a pot and was lovely, the homemade chips and mushrooms so very tasty, and the vegetables - including broccoli, carrot batons and baby sweetcorn, nice and al dente. Wow, I was more than delighted with this.

Simon said his monkfish was really good, although the tomato dressing was a bit strong for his liking and unfortunately he bit into a section of lime by mistake. He enjoyed the veg and homemade chips.

For pudding I chose Chocolate Sponge served with fresh cream or custard (£5.95), while Simon ordered the After Dinner Cheese Selection, (a selection of artisan cheeses with homemade chutney), (£7.95).

Again my choice proved to be very special. I was given a square of quite heavy, dark chocolately sponge served with a nice, hot, creamy custard. The sponge was divine, with a decadently strong chocolate flavour, perfectly complemented by a light custard. It was thumbs up all round from me. Simon enjoyed his cheese selection, saying that it offered a good choice of cheeses.

We were both really impressed with The Habit, and would recommend it as the perfect venue to celebrate a special occasion as you definitely get what you pay for. I just hope it won't be another 20-odd years before I eat there again.

ADDRESS

The Habit Restaurant & Bar, 30 East Castle Street, Bridgnorth WV16 4AN

Tel: 01746 767902

Web: www.thehabitrestaurant.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Homemade Soup of the Day, Baked Sesame Straws (£4.95); Sauteed Tiger Prawns, Ginger, Peppers & Chilli Glaze (£7.95)

MAIN COURSES

Chicken Breast Stuffed With Chorizo And Sun Dried Tomato, Roasted Vegetables & Tomato Sauce (£11.95); Baked Aubergine Gratin, Spinach, Roasted Tomatoes, Parmesan & Herb Crust (£9.95)

DESSERTS

Creme Brulee With Caramel Top (£5.95)Apple & Sultana Crumble served with Cream or Custard (£5.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Quietly friendly and welcoming

SERVICE

Excellent. Efficient, attentive and polite

DISABLED FACILITIES

Sadly none as the pub is one of the oldest in Bridgnorth and is listed