Shropshire Star

Granary Grill, Weston Park

Reviewer's rating ***** Lisa Bailey enjoys an evening of perfection at a newly opened restaurant in an old building.

Published
Reviewer’s rating *****

I could sum up our meal at The Granary Grill in one word,

writes Lisa Bailey

- tremendous. But I think I need to elaborate a little more.

We have visited Weston Park several times for friends' weddings and Christenings and had a fabulous time, so when we heard they were opening the Granary Grill in the grounds we waited with eager anticipation.

However, the run-up to our evening out did not run that smoothly with my husband Neil feeling under the weather and I was edgy because it was the first night our son had stayed overnight at his grandparents'.

But, our tribulations were put to one side when we walked into the Granary Grill, which is a 70-seater restaurant with a contemporary feel situated in the old malting house of the Granary building. There was a split-level seating area with an open plan kitchen at the far end. Our waitress asked us where we would like to sit and gently nudged us to a prime table with views over Church Pool.

We were choosing our drinks and Neil chatted to the food & beverage operations manager Olivier Ansquer after a few organic lagers on the list caught his eye.

Olivier said they were from Abbots Bromley, Staffordshire, and had been voted in the top 50 beers of the World by the Independent. He said they had introduced the lager at the model air show and game fair and they had been very successful.

Neil chose the Freedom Organic Dark Lager to start and then followed it with a pint of the Freedom Organic Lager (£3.10 a pint). He really enjoyed both. Neil would not claim to be an expert on the lager front, but said that his favourite was the dark lager because it was unusual.

Looking through the menu there was a choice of meals from the kitchen and from the grill. It stated on the menu that all the Granary Grill meat was sourced by Weston's very own in-house butcher.

For starters I had Brockhall Farm goat's cheese and chargrilled vegetables (£7.25) and Neil had chicken ham hock terrine (£5.25). Every mouthful of the goat's cheese was a delight and was complemented by the oven dried tomatoes, beetroot relish and pine nuts.

Neil's chunky terrine was served with a tasty homemade piccalilli – it was both substantial and full of flavour. We were a little perturbed when the chateaubriand we had ordered for our main course arrived at the table to see whether it was cooked to our liking before we had finished our starters. But the waitress quickly apologised and disappeared when she realised it was for another table.

By this time we had received a text to say our son was quite content and sound asleep so we were now totally relaxed.

The chateaubriand (£38) was a strange choice for us as Neil likes his steak well done and I prefer mine medium to rare. But, it was wonderful. It came with Bearnaise sauce and chips. The steak was cooked to perfection and the sauce was delicious. The chips were salty, but just enough to give them plenty of taste.

I had a glass of Pinot Grigio "Blush" Lambertini with my main course, which was very easy on the palate.

The dessert menu was also tantalising, but we were both struggling to eat any more. After a break I decided on marshmallow, strawberry and white chocolate transparence (£5.75) as it was unusual and Neil decided to give dessert a miss.

One item on the dessert menu which I thought was strange was traditional rarebit with Staffordshire organic cheese on walnut bread (£5.10). Excuse my ignorance, but cheese on toast for pudding does not seem quite right!

Anyway, back to my dessert, which was mouthwatering, light and fluffy. But, I had to admit defeat and give up half way through. Neil stepped in and managed to eat the rest.

Throughout our meal we had chatted to Olivier and the waitress who tickled me with her wonderful sense of humour. We were made to feel very relaxed and the atmosphere was not stuffy in the slightest.

The restaurant only opened at the beginning of May and sits alongside the new art gallery and farm shop. On the main floor, glass doors open out onto a terrace in the Granary Courtyard, which would be ideal on sunny afternoons.

Olivier said they had been doing far more lunches than expected and appealed to a different market to The Stables. Weston Park says the emphasis is on "easy eating" in a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere and we would both agree with that. I think a return trip is on the cards very soon.

ADDRESS

Granary Grill, Weston Park Weston under Lizard, near Shifnal TF11 8LE

Tel: 01952 852107

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Plate of locally cured hams, Whitmore ewe's milk cheese (£7.25); salad of Loch Fyne Braden roast salmon (£8.50).

MAIN COURSES

Locally reared lamb shank with red wine gravy and creamy mash (£13.25); 100 per cent Shropshire and Staffordshire beef rib eye 8oz steak (£18.25)

DESSERTS

Bitter chocolate torte, raspberry sour (£5.75); steamed ginger pudding, cinnamon ice cream and butterscotch sauce (£5.75)

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed and inviting.

SERVICE

Excellent, friendly and attentive.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Toilets for the disabled and access to the restaurant

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