Fennels Restaurant, Shifnal

Reviewer's rating ***** Only occasionally do you come across a dining experience so excellent that it simply can't be beaten, writes Cathy Stanworth. Everything is perfect, from the food to the service to the attractive restaurant you're lucky enough to be sitting in.

And my trophy goes to - Fennels in Shifnal.

Following a tip-off from a reader, Simon and myself ate there on a recent Friday night after I'd wisely reserved a table early in the week. Walking through the door just before 8.30pm we found every table filled in the intimate venue, apart from our solitary table for two.

After enjoying a great meal, in lovely surroundings (the building dates back to Tudor times), I was impressed when the chef/proprietor, Richard Brooks, came out in his whites to chat to diners at every table. Introducing myself later, after paying for our meal, I learned the reason why we'd just eaten so well.

Richard, who bought Fennels four years ago as his first own restaurant, was originally from London and he'd worked at the Savoy. He had cooked for people on their private yachts, with his clientèle including the Queen, Prince Charles and the late Princess Diana, fashion designer Garavani Valentino, an American ambassador and the head of Coca-Cola. And frankly what's good enough for them is good enough for us!

Catching one of Fennel's two friendly waitresses as they rapidly brought out one delicious-looking dish after another from the kitchen, she quickly showed us to our table and brought us some menus.

The descriptions alone of the eight starter and eight main course choices was already beginning to make my mouth water, as we ordered a pint of Kronenbourg lager (£2.95) and a large glass of red wine (£5.10).

For starters I ordered venison terrine with apple and cider chutney and granary toast (£5.25) while Simon chose the other starter I'd had my eye on - finest Bings Heath smoked salmon (£5.50). As we weren't sure whether vegetables were included with our dishes, we also ordered two bowls of chips (£2 each).

For our mains I finally decided on pan fried breast of chicken wrapped in prosciutto (Italian ham) stuffed with garlic cream cheese on a bed of mash with wine jus (£14.25). I had seen many a would-be amateur chef on Channel 4's TV dinner party challenge 'Come Dine With Me' attempt to transform that humble chicken breast into something a bit special, and I was keen to see how it was properly done.

As the place - which comfortably seats around 35 people - was busy, we were prepared to wait a little longer for our food, but ours wasn't an inordinately long wait.

And what was put before us was very nice indeed. I had a good slab of obviously home-made terrine. Although looking much rougher than an alternative smoother pate, it was very light and tasty. It came with a fresh, tasty salad garnish on the side and slices of good granary toast and a dish of butter. The accompanying apple and cider chutney was delicious.

Simon's simple, yet very effective, dish had decent slices of fresh smoked salmon, drizzled with fresh lemon juice and salad garnish. This dinner party classic went down well with my other half.

Again, although the place was busy, we weren't kept waiting too long for our mains.

I was delighted with the look of mine. I had a good-sized chicken breast, partly still on the bone, which had a good slice of crispy, darkened prosciutto around it, atop my mash and red wine jus.

The chicken flesh was easy to cut and nice and moist and tasty. The garlic cream cheese on the inside was pleasant and my prosciutto was full of flavour and slightly crunchy. My mash was absolutely gorgeous. It was really 'yummy', and so smooth and the red wine jus was equally satisfying.

We did get fresh vegetables with our dish - being a selection of broccoli, carrots, peas and broad beans. These were cooked al dente, with the carrots being particularly moist when bitten through.

We had a handful of large, hand-made chips in individual bowls which were again good. I thoroughly enjoyed every mouthful of my dish.

Simon's fillet of beef was impressive and looked more than a bit tasty. It was, he said, and it was also cooked to his liking - medium - and it was easy to cut. He also enjoyed the vegetables and the chips.

Now of course, in the interests of research, we would have to have a third course. But whereas before I'd eaten out and felt completely stuffed by the end of the second course, this wasn't the case at Fennels. In fact even after my pudding, I was comfortable, without a straining waistband, which I believe is how you are supposed to feel after a good meal.

While Simon reverted to form, ordering cheese and biscuits (£6.95), I chose a raspberry crème brulee served with a tulip basket and raspberry sorbet (£5.50). I'd already noticed these tulip baskets, made out of a cylinder of pastry and, with ice cream or sorbet balancing on top, it looked like a mushroom, and frankly I wanted one.

Simon's cheese and biscuits included a good selection of cheese and some nice granary style biscuits and he got more of them on asking nicely. His dish also came with grapes and he enjoyed it all.

My dish of course had a ramakin holding the crème brulee and my very own tulip basket. With one swipe of my spoon the basket was destroyed, with the sorbet landing satisfyingly on my plate. More satisfaction came from diving my spoon through the more than crunchy (and in fact delightfully slightly chewy) caramelised topping of my crème brulee. Underneath was a perfectly light and tasty raspberry custard with a few raspberries hidden within. Again absolutely gorgeous. To finish off our meal Simon had a port (£3.40) and I had a small glass of red wine (£3.95).

It's such a pity 'one' doesn't have 'one's' own yacht, as I could happily eat like this every day. But then we could always go back for Sunday lunch at £16 a head for a start!

ADDRESS

Fennels Restaurant, 8 Market Place, Shifnal TF11 9AZ

Tel: 01952 463020

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Cream of pea soup scented with truffle (£4.65); Ramekin of olives (£2.50)

MAIN COURSES

Fresh fish of the day (£14.95); Roast rack of lamb scented with rosemary and garlic with lamb comfit and minted jus (£16.95)

DESSERTS

Rocky road cheese cake drizzled with toffee sauce and vanilla ice-cream (£5.50); Sticky toffee pudding with ice-cream and hot butterscotch sauce

SERVICE

Excellent. Friendly, efficient and professional

ATMOSPHERE

Busy with relaxed diners enjoying a good night out

DISABLED FACILITIES

Flat entrance access but wooden floor slopes slightly