Jugs Restaurant, Llansantffraid

Jugs describes itself at Wales' leading fish and seafood restaurant, writes

.

A bold claim indeed for one of the principality's most inland dining establishments. Jugs is less than 10 miles from the Shropshire border and about as far from the sea as it is possible to be in Wales.

When it comes to fresh fish dishes, coastal restaurants surely have a head start. From sea to pan to plate in the blink of an eye.

Such a boast is also rather difficult for the diner to substantiate short of visiting every seafood specialist in Wales. Now there's a task I could get my teeth into.

Terms like 'best' and 'leading' are all rather subjective. One man's 'leading' is another man's 'least'.

All that said, whether Jugs is the 'leading fish and seafood restaurant' or not, if there's a better one then point me in its direction.

It is simply right up there with the best restaurants in Shropshire and Mid Wales.

Its driving force is flamboyant owner Norman Rose, whose inspired hiring of chef Simon Hough two-and-a-half years ago has much to do with Jugs' success. Simon started working in his uncle's patisserie at the age of 14 and intended to train as a pastry chef. However, he yearned to cook what he describes as 'real food'.

He was classically trained and learnt his trade in rosette restaurants including a Michelin-starred establishment in Oxford.

Fish is his passion, fusion dishes his speciality and scallops and black pudding his favourite dish. At 25 he seems to be at the top of his game.

He certainly turned out some glorious food on the evening my wife Vanessa and I visited.

Vanessa's Bantry Bay mussels in garlic, white wine and cream (£6.95) provided a sumptuous start to her evening. This was a vast bowl of glistening blue-silver shells filled with plump amber mussels. There was plenty of freshly baked bread to mop up the delicious sauce. As for the portion - it looked like a meal for two.

My blue cheese and spinach souffle (£5.75) treated the tastebuds to a stimulating contrast of flavours and textures and had a delightfully light touch.

A potato rosti and sauce gribiche added winningly to the fusion of tastes.

I briefly sampled Vanessa's tandoori halibut with fricassee of noodles, pak choi and bean sprouts with a ginger broth (£18.95). It was the dish of the night. Not many fish could stand up to tandoori spices but halibut proved an excellent partner. It was every bit as meaty as tandoori chicken but sweeter and more tender. It was accompanied by an interesting stir fry of noodles, pak choi, bean sprouts and ginger. Delicious.

My seared duck breast (£15.95), served pink, was wonderfully tender. Its considerable flavour was lifted to even greater heights by a red wine jus whose aftertaste enriched the palate. The potato rosti and Irish cabbage were excellent accompaniments for texture, taste and base to the dish.

Be warned, the portions of this superb food are on the generous side and, tempted though Vanessa was by the dessert menu, she simply had no room.

I, on the other hand, can always find room for a decent, home-made pudding and the vanilla pod creme brulee with home-baked shortbread biscuit (£4.50) certainly fitted the bill.

A very drinkable bottle of red from a serviceable wine list provided a pleasing adjunct.

We rounded off our meal with excellent fresh ground coffee and mints.

His chef might be an inspired investment but Norman Rose has also pumped plenty of cash into his project. Some £150,000 to be precise. He has thoroughly modernised the interior with new tables and chairs, going for chic dark leather and wood to provide a streamlined, minimalist feel that would not look out of place in London's more fashionable dining quarters.

What lets this look down - and Norman is the first to admit it - is that he has not got around to taking down the collection of 4,200-plus pottery jugs, built up by the previous owners, that hang from the ceiling and that long ago gave the restaurant its name.

Norman is loathe to change the name and you can understand why when he is developing such a successful brand.

Why not photograph the jugs, take them down and display the picture?

I'm sure he'll get around to it one day . . .

contact details

Jugs Restaurant, Llansantffraid, Powys, SY22 6SU Telephone: 01691 828324

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Hot smoked salmon cocktail with onion and parmesan bread (£6.50); mosaic of local game with tomato and white onion chutney and toasted onion bread (£6.25)

Main courses

Seared lamb leg with creamed mint mash, roasted parsnips and carrots finished with thyme gravy (£14.95); chicken breast wrapped in bacon with Colcannon mash and a wild mushroom, shallot and cognac cream sauce (£12.95)

Sides

Homemade chips (£2.95); cauliflower cheese (£2.95)

DESSERTS

Wild honey and lime cheesecake with mixed berry compote and blackcurrant sorbet (£4.50); brioche and apricot pudding with a creme anglaise (£4.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Lively, warm and inviting.

SERVICE

Excellent. Friendly, attentive and efficient.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Wide access - staff always ready to help.