Saracens at Hadnall

Let's talk about profile. When it comes to great chefs, Shropshire boasts more than its fair share. Like Cornwall, Birmingham and Yorkshire, it has a store cupboard full of chefs with pop star profiles.

Our savviest chefs don't need to employ a phalanx of PR gurus or marketing experts – they are adept at grabbing the headlines, building reputations and earning column inches week after week.

But to imagine that tells the whole story would be misleading. There's a small army of exceptional chefs who shun the spotlight and do what chefs used to do before cooking became the new rock'n'roll. That is, they cook.

Each week, scores of local chefs head into their kitchens at silly o'clock to keep their customers satisfied. They meet the best local producers and find inspiration from the seasons as they create exquisite new dishes. They work hard, cook with great passion and almost never get the thanks they deserve.

One such low-profile chef is David Martin, who runs the kitchens at Saracens at Hadnall. David has been in position for 18 months, formerly as senior sous and more recently as head chef. He runs a youthful and enthusiastic brigade, passing on his knowledge during every service.

He's unlikely to appear on BBC's Great British Menu or MasterChef anytime soon. He's a low-key chap whose passion is for food, rather than self-promotion. That is advantageous to his regular customers, who delight in his dishes and can be assured that he's in the kitchen when they eat. He has an impressive pedigree: he's got a better background than most Shropshire chefs, not that he shouts about it. His CV features stints at three separate one-star Michelin restaurants and his food reflects that. He has impressive contacts with local producers and sources the best seasonal produce; from Black Mountain beef to rabbit, from fillet of venison to wild mushrooms.

Saracens is an understated venue. It is a former pub that was modernised some years ago and features leather sofas, comfortable arm chairs and a light dining room. The dining room has a stand-out feature: an old well which is lit up and covered by a thick glass sheet, so that diners can peer into it or walk over it. The venue is warm and elegant, providing a combination of trend and tradition.

It is one of Shropshire's most consistent restaurants. For five or six years, it's held two AA rosettes, reflecting both the quality of its produce and the skill of its team. I've eaten there on a number of occasions and it has proved to be a well-run venue that provides exceptional value and high quality.

My latest visit came when my friend and I booked a table for a mid-week supper. We'd been keen to catch up and Saracens at Hadnall gave us the opportunity to enjoy fine dining in relaxed surrounds.

We were greeted by a charismatic maitrê d – all chunky glasses, bright tie and waistcoast – who made us feel welcome, offered us drinks and bought a small slate of cheesy gourgères. We retired to leather upholstered chairs to peruse the menus and chat, before a youthful waiter escorted us to our table.

Saracens at Hadnall changes its menu regularly, so as to feature the best of seasonal produce. It tends to feature five or six starters, mains and desserts – its ever-shifting menu ensures that locals don't get bored of eating the same dish too many times.

I opted for a pressing of rabbit to start. It featured a ballatine of confit local rabbit which encircled a mousse of rabbit loin. They sat atop a swish of raisin puree. Crispy shallot rings, shards of crisp parma ham and small daubs of a pesto mousse made from rocket and emmental completed the dish.

It was a treat. The confit and mousse were thrilling. The deliciously moist, sweet-savoury meat made for a crackerjack starter. The shallots had lost a little of their crispness, sadly, but that was the only aberration. The pairing of raisin and rabbit was inspired; the sweetness of the fruit cut through the richness of the meat. The aromatic and slightly peppery pesto provided colour and contrast. It was a terrific starter.

My friend opted for a goat's cheese dish. It comprised a French goat's cheese and fennel mousse with a smoked cheddar bon bon, honey snow, pine nuts and a beurre noissette ice cream. It was almost perfect. The bon bon provided texture and colour, the pine nuts offered contrast and the snow was a treat. The dish needed a little more acid – a beetroot, rhubarb or orange accompaniment, perhaps – to balance the creamy richness of the mousse. Other than that, it was sublime.

Before visiting Saracens, I'd studied their online menu and made my main course selection, opting for a tasting plate of Black Mountain beef. The venue is known for its use of that particular beast, which packs a flavoursome punch. I was not disappointed. The dish comprised a piece of brisket and slow-braised cuts of shin and oxtail – both of which were remarkably tasty. The plate was completed by a smoked Cheddar pomme puree, bon bon, caramelised onion puree and a beef jus. The jus was intense and sticky. I'd have happily filled a cup and drank it. The cuts of shin and oxtail were particularly memorable and there were small dots of carrot and orange puree, which added an element of sweet.

My friend selected the chestnut Wellington, which featured roasted chestnut and baby brie in a pastry Wellington. It was served with crispy oyster mushrooms, roasted roots and sweet potato mash. The busy plate made for delicious eating and was aesthetically pleasing.

And so to dessert. My friend has earned the nickname Queen of Puds during recent dinners and she was on sparkling form. "We'll eat three," she told the waiter, gamely. He smiled, somewhat taken aback.

"Yes, that'll be fine."

"But don't let the chef leave early. We might want a fourth."

The waiter, poor man, smiled as though it were the polite thing to do. He'd never met The Queen of Puds before, though no doubt he'll remember her.

The Queen of Puds and I have an unwritten rule: we never leave a venue without eating at least three desserts. It's a curious tradition – I'm not sure how it started – and it's inspired by curiosity rather than gluttony.

"We'll have the wild honey parfait, the apple crumble and the passion fruit brûlée, please," she smiled. "We'll eat them back-to-back, one after the other."

Our intention had to been to receive a single dessert, which we would share, before moving onto the next. The message was lost in translation, however, and the waiter returned with two honey parfaits. We did the maths: we were looking down the barrel of six puds.

The Queen of Puds interjected. "Could we just have one crumble and one brûlée, we'll share each."

The parfait was the pick of the bunch. It was served with white chocolate soil and elderflower ice cream. The dessert was deliciously light and enjoyable. It was like steaming onto a cloud and breathing the flavours of summer. The crumble featured a terrific topping and wonderful crème anglais, though the apple could have been sweetened a touch more. The brûlée had a wonderfully-caramelised top, but had been cooked a little too long and lacked its necessary wobble.

The waiter, bless him, knocked the price of one of the parfaits off the bill, which remarkably, came in at £60 including drinks – about £15–£20 less than we'd have paid at comparable venues elsewhere.

David Martin is an accomplished operator who serves delightful food, some of which wouldn't be out of place in a Michelin restaurant. His team offer great service too. There are minor imprecisions, but the work that he puts into each dish is impressive. Great ingredients are served in exciting combinations and presented with great artistry. Saracens at Hadnall may not be the best known restaurant in Shropshire and its chef may not have one of its highest profiles. But don't let that fool you. David Martin and co. are too good to ignore.

ADDRESS

• Saracens at Hadnall, Shrewsbury Road, Hadnall SY4 4AG

• Tel: 01939 210877

• Web: www.saracensathadnall.co.uk