The Clive, Bromfield

During that time, the town has been host to a total of six Michelin-starred restaurants and many more that have earned praise from the Good Food Guide and similar reputable books.

In 2012, Ludlow's reputation for being the foodie capital of rural Britain remains intact.

Star chefs like Chris Bradley at Mr Underhills, Will Holland at La Becasse and Dave Jaram at Fishmore Hall, not forgetting Clive Davis at The Green Cafe, continue to provide superlative fayre.

Ludlow has so many restaurants that they could almost be sub-divided into divisions.

Those mentioned above comprise the Premiership, there are several at a Championship-esque standard while a number of also-rans make up the First Division.

The Clive Restaurant would sit squarely in the Championship.

It has high standards, aspires to better things and offers what its website describes as 'affordable luxury'. However, it fails to meet the standards of restaurants nearby who form the county's elite.

The Clive boasts two AA stars and an entry in the Michelin Guide, though the gulf in class between it and restaurants nearby is all too apparent.

I visited on a Saturday evening, when the weather couldn't have been less inviting. I'd been due to meet a friend for dinner, though it looked as though I might have to leave the car at home and travel by canoe.

Squally winds, thunderous storms and dreadful light made for atrocious travelling conditions.

And yet, when I arrived at The Clive, the restaurant was full. While many restaurants might have suffered in similar conditions, its esteem locally was clearly sufficiently high that loyal locals had not been deterred by the storm force conditions.

The Clive is a stylish and informal venue, offering diners the chance to relax in colourful rooms in which walls are decorated with interesting artworks.

Wooden floors and tables and vast plate glass windows give the dining room a bright and airy atmosphere.

It's been some years since I've eaten at The Clive, though my friend had eaten there in more recent times.

I respect her opinion and she informed me that she'd found it good, rather than great; pleasant, rather than memorable.

We enjoyed drinks in the bar, where we perused the evening's menu, before repairing to our table.

A small fish cake and thumbnail-sized pizza slice comprised our amuse bouche, which served to whet our appetites, without suggesting gastronomic pyrotechnics.

I started with a pigeon breast served with beetroot, beetroot crisps, candied walnuts and a side salad. It was presented beautifully on a dark grey slate, though the dish had too many flaws.

The pigeon had been a little overcooked, making it chewy, while the beetroot crisps were a little too dark and soft in the middle.

The flavours worked well together but, while the presentation was immaculate, the cooking lacked precision.

My friend's crab spring roll was served with similar elegance, though she found it lacking in flavour.

A thick roll of pastry and nuggets of sweetcorn detracted from the delicate seaside flavour of the crab and it lacked seasoning.

I opted for the fish of the day for my main; enjoying a fillet of monkfish that had been placed atop a bowl of linguine in a seafood sauce.

The dish was packed with mussels, crayfish tails and thinly sliced scallops. It had been expertly cooked, so the fish elements remained tender and moist, and made for good eating.

The monkfish had been cooked with skill, the linguine was al dente and the sauce packed with flavour.

My friend's main, a lamb rump, was served on a mound of peas, a swish of vegetable puree and a savoury reduction.

The lamb had been cooked well, so that it was tender and pink, while the reduction added depth to the dish.

It was, however, a little underwhelming. The dish was a little out of proportion, with too many peas. Though it tasted good, it lacked interest. Unlike other dishes, the chef seemed to have played it safe.

Our waitress was polite and attentive throughout and brought our desserts after a short break.

My friend ordered a Bailey's cheesecake that was a little runny and was decorated with shards of thick sugarwork, which made it look like a candied hedgehog. It was fine.

I selected the lemon tart, which was the star of the show. A crisp pastry base and side was filled with a sweet but tart filling and the top had been bruleed.

There was a delicious, soft meringue and a peculiar, vivid green basil cream, which was too rich and sickly.

The tart was the only element that either of us had been served that dazzled the senses. Other parts of the menu had varied from good to mediocre.

While the presentation and service had been above average and exceeded expectation, the food could have been seasoned with greater skill and cooked with more precision.

Running a restaurant in Ludlow is a tough ask. In this critic's opinion, the town has four of the county's five best, and standards are high.

The Clive has plenty going for it: a great location, inviting dining room, good standards of service and attractive, seasonal food.

With a few improvements in the kitchen, greater precision, more accurate seasoning, it could yet earn a place in the county's gastronomic Premiership.

ADDRESS

Bromfield, Ludlow, Shropshire, SY8 2JR

Tel: 01584 856565 / 856665

Web: www.theclive.co.uk