The Golden Cross, Shrewsbury

My friend and I were talking about Boycie, the star of Only Fools And Horses, when we took up our seats at The Golden Cross, in Shrewsbury's Princess Street,

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We'd noticed his wonderfully funny book, Being Boycie, on sale at a nearby shop and were regaling one another with our favourite Boycie moments from Only Fools . . . and The Green Green Grass.

As we settled into the comfortable seats at the Golden Cross, my friend said: "You know what. I think he'd like it here."

He pointed out the furry, leopard print light shades, gold lame decorations, ostentatious light fittings and tousled bits and bobs. We were overwhelmed by a tsunami of chintz. Our surrounds were more vaudevillian than a night with the Marx Brothers.

"You know what," I replied. "I think you're right. Very Boycie."

We had come for an early evening dinner and were the first to arrive. We seemed to have caught the maitre d off guard, having inadvertently entered via the back door just before 6pm.

The restaurant manager seemed mildly flustered and took a good five minutes to find us a seat – thumbing through his seating plans and reservation diary to make sure we weren't depriving any later arrivals of their seat.

My friend eats out infrequently in Shrewsbury and I wanted to be sure of a good dinner, which is why I took him to the Golden Cross. Of all of the restaurants in Shrewsbury, it's probably the most consistent.

I've never had a bad dinner there, never suffered from bad service and never been overcharged. The food is consistently good, if sometimes a tad unexciting.

The Golden Cross is a like a German car; it runs efficiently, never lets you down and always offers a little more than expected. We thumbed through our menus and started with a small basket of breads, which were freshly cooked and had great texture.

My friend then enjoy a classic smoked salmon platter with a small salad. Peculiarly, it was served with potato – the only duff note in an otherwise enjoyable first movement of the evening's symphony.

I began with a goat's cheese starter that was served with salad leaves and pear. It was simply presented and enjoyable. For his main course, my friend opted for a cassoulet-style dish with a wonderfully succulent and tender duck component and a savoury sausage.

It was an exceptional course and he cleaned his plate, enjoying the mix of texture and flavour. "Delicious," he said, as he finished the last forkful of beans from his plate.

I went for a roast supreme of chicken with dauphinoise potatoes, a savoury jus and vegetables, which was equally good.

The chicken was moist and tender and had been expertly seasoned. The skin was crisp and the dauphinoise deliciously creamy. The jus was intense, without being Michelin-special. Overall, the it was a well-executed dish, packed full-of wintery flavours that had been presented with some skill.

Our waitress brought a dessert menu and left us for a little while as we made our selections. We both went for a wintery crumble with ice cream – and were glad that we did. Sharp, acidic blackberries were topped with a light, sweet, buttery crumble and a heavenly ice cream. It was smooth, delicious and very, very more-ish.

If another bowl had been placed before either of us, we'd have wolfed it down. The balance between sweet and acid, hot and cold, crunch and soft was deeply impressive.

The restaurant was pretty much full by the time we'd finished, with couples, partying office types, families and friends all enjoying the Golden Cross's highly-regarded hospitality.

My friend, happily, was impressed by Shrewsbury's food and drink offering and the evening had been a success. Every town needs a selection of different restaurants so that diners are catered for on all occasions. Shrewsbury, at the moment, has it just about right.

Those seeking high end Michelin-style thrills can enjoy the exquisite food of Ian Matfin, at The Lion, Drapers Hall is a favourite among fans of traditional/classic cooking, a great new tapas bar and The Armoury, on Quayside, offer brilliant informal eating while the town is overflowing with decent curry houses, Thai restaurants and Italian eateries.

Shrewsbury has the balance just about right. If the Golden Cross were a dog competing at Crufts – and I fear the start of this analogy will already have prompted a group of angry letter-writers to put pen to paper to damn my vernacular – it would be a best in class winner, rather than an overall champion.

Our dinner was good value, at £30 per head for three courses each and a drink. It was tasty, well-presented and cooked with no little skill. Service was pretty good, the waitresses were warm, friendly and engaging, which is as much as diners expect.

The Golden Cross has been on my list of reliable stand-bys for a couple of years and it retains that place. It won't change your life, but you can pretty much rest assured that it won't let you down. And that, in my book, means it's a comfortable four out of five.

ADDRESS:

The Golden Cross, 14 Princess Street, Shrewsbury SY1 1LP

Tel: 01743 362507

Web: www.goldencrosshotel.co.uk

The Golden Cross at a glance:

• Food: Classic combinations and influences, without pretence.

• You really must try: The chicken supreme. Components of the dish change with the season, but the breast is cooked expertly.

• Service: Pretty good, though could be better. The waitresses were charming.

• Atmosphere: Excellent. The dining room was buzzing with happy customers.

• Lasting impressions: Utterly reliable. Like a Swiss watch, a Japanese train or a rainy day in north Wales. It never disappoints.