Bottle and Glass, Picklescott

Star rating **** Catherine Roche thinks this is her favourite traditional rural pub.

A trip out into the country is what my boyfriend and I decided to do one rainy weekend to feel cosy and eat some good food.

So we set off for the Bottle and Glass in Picklescott between Dorrington and Church Stretton.

The traditional English country inn has been run by Paula Gurney for almost a year and offers food, local ales and accommodation.

It was originally a farmhouse dating back to the 16th century and was granted its first licence as an alehouse in 1837.

After winding down the country lanes, hopeful that no other vehicles would be coming in the other direction, we arrived at the quaint white inn.

We were greeted by two doors to the bar and the lounge and could not see any way in when a kind local enjoying a drink and a smoke outside told us we had to pull on the rope saying: "We're not very sophisticated here".

Excellent. On entrance the friendly bar staff took my name and directed us to our table which I had been informed was the "favourite table of the house" when I had booked a week earlier.

We were seated and ordered drinks straight away. Though it was August, we were seated by the fire in the rustic building with low beamed ceilings and country fixtures and fittings.

It felt more like October outside so this was fine and very cosy. We were handed the menus, which change seasonally, and perused the dishes which are all made from scratch and wherever possible use local ingredients. There was also an extensive wine list which is put together with the help of Tanners. I decided to go for the salmon, crab and prawn parcel with salad to start and Simon went for the shredded crispy duck salad.

The place was full all night with all the tables reserved so it is advisable to book ahead.

Before long our starters arrived. I thought my starter might have involved pastry of some sort so was pleased when a delicate mound of smoked salmon arrived which was housing the crab meat and prawn filling. There were a few lettuce leaves and some lemon and some lovely crusty granary bread which was all I needed. It was delicious and fresh and the right amount for me to start.

Simon adored his salad. Which while also very simple was delicious. The warm duck was more strips than shreds and had a delicate sticky oriental dressing. It wasn't too fatty and hit the spot.

For mains I had gone for pan fried duck breast with sweet potato and a plum sauce and Simon opted for an 8oz rib eye steak with tomatoes, field mushrooms, onion rings and chips.

When the mains arrived they were both sizeable potions, particularly Simon's which was definitely man-sized. My dish was well presented and there was a well cooked, fresh and good sized selection of seasonal vegetables to accompany it. At first I wondered if the plum sauce was in fact cranberry as it was quite tart. But it was made with fresh plums and wasn't a manufactured flavour but a fresh and contrasting one. It cut through the rich sweetness of the duck and sweet potato perfectly.

Simon's dinner was equally flavoursome. His steak was rare, as requested, and the hand cut chips were perfect. Chips always differ wherever you go and I pinched a fair few.

The ever attentive and friendly waiting staff quickly arrived with the blackboard and left it propped up by the bar for us to choose.

Simon ordered the sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce and I went for the treacle and ginger tart, both with icecream.

Soon enough our puddings arrived and again were a good size. We ate half and half and though I prefer ginger in savoury dishes it was the perfect ingredient to cut through the sickly sweetness of the treacle. It was delicious. Simon's afters was moist and also very sweet but the velvety ice-cream calmed the whole thing down. We really enjoyed them.

As we sat for a moment letting our dinners go down, a friendly lady we hadn't seen before walked past and asked if we wanted our dishes taking away. I asked if she was the owner to which she smiled "yes".

I told her how much we had enjoyed not just our meals but the whole experience and we would definitely be returning.

This place is a gem and is family-run. It is what British inns should be all about. It was my last food review for the Star, and my favourite.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Feta cheese and onion on salad leaves with toasted ciabatta £5.50; grilled whole sardines with salad and granary bread £5.50.

Main courses

Game pie with pheasant and venison in wine £12.50; pan fried salmon with caper sauce £10.50. Served with fresh seasonal vegetables and a choice of potatoes.

Desserts

Chocolate pudding with chocolate and brandy sauce; Banoffee pie.

All £4.50 served with cream, ice cream or custard.

ATMOSPHERE

Warm and relaxed

DISABLED FACILITIES

There are toilets for the disabled.

Contact

Bottle and Glass, Picklescott, Church Stretton SY6 6NR. Tel: 01694 751345