The Cross Gates Hotel, Ford

Reviewer's rating: *** After visiting family in Mid Wales on a Sunday afternoon, we decided to call somewhere for something to eat, writes Kirsty Smallman.

Reviewer's rating: ***

After visiting family in Mid Wales on a Sunday afternoon, we decided to call somewhere for something to eat, writes Kirsty Smallman.

We were trying to avoid going into Shrewsbury and decided we couldn't wait until we got back to Telford. Seeing a sign saying "cooking all day" outside The Cross Gates, we quickly pulled in to see if there was anything we fancied on the menu.

It was nice to see a menu in the doorway, so we didn't have to walk in and feel uncomfortable about walking back out if it wasn't suitable. A selection of traditional pub grub and even an offer of a traditional Sunday roast (despite it being 7pm) encouraged us through the doors.

I find myself writing stories about traditional pubs closing down and being demolished to make way for houses but this one seems to be coping very well in the economic climate - a good sign for diners.

It is a "very" traditional pub, with regulars and their banter at the bar, a bar area for both drinkers and diners and a separate restaurant area.

I say "very" traditional as the table we sat at left us able to admire the dated velvet curtains and the 80s decor. Yes, what I am trying to say is that the pub looked tired and in need of a lick of paint or some more up-to-date wallpaper, but on the other hand if it isn't broken then why fix it?

The number of diners made it obvious it is still successful as it is, and perhaps the tired, traditional look is popular with certain diners.

We opted for a table in the restaurant, and after being shown through by a friendly member of staff, we were left to look at the menu.

I didn't feel too hungry but as John said he was having a starter, then I thought it would be rude not to join him! John had the prawn cocktail, a traditional starter at a traditional venue, which was served as a plentiful portion on a bed of lettuce with bread and butter - no complaints from him.

I went for garlic mushrooms in a creamy sauce with garlic ciabatta bread and soon found John's fork coming towards my dish. To be fair, the portion was enough for both of us, with a generous portion of bread. Both of the starters got the thumbs-up.

Despite a good selection on the menu, from light bites to main meals including fish, meat and vegetarian options, we both went for our favourite - Surf and Turf.

Although John was very tempted by the Sunday roast as one was delivered to a neighbouring table - the vegetables looked fresh and hot and there was a good portion of meat.

We both agreed the steak was extremely tender and a good advert for local businesses, as the menu had boasted the use of local suppliers. It was served with a good, but not too much, scampi, a side salad, chips and peas.

I was beaten by the portion of chips and John was full enough to say no to mine too. He was, in fact, contemplating the sweet menu which had stood in the dining room during our meal, but decided his appetite was fully satisfied. Although with homemade desserts and a good range on offer, I was surprised he resisted. Even the comment from John of "look at the size of that cheesecake" as it passed our table couldn't persuade us.

As every woman does, pregnant or not, I visited the toilets and this is where I must state - broken or not, they need a revamp.

There were four holes in the tiles of where toilet roll holders were once fitted, but the tissue paper was now just on top of the toilet. I always think the state of the toilets are an indication of the kitchen, and although they were relatively clean, there was certainly room for improvement. They definitely need a revamp.

The dining experience at The Cross Gates was an enjoyable one and the food was of a good standard for a reasonable price.

Fans of The Cross Gates will probably be furious at the thought of the velvet curtains going and new carpet being fitted - but I don't think anyone can disagree that the toilets need some work.

The staff who gave us such a warm and friendly welcome are a credit to the team at The Cross Gates.

ADDRESS

The Cross Gates Hotel, Welshpool Road, Ford, Shrewsbury

Tel: 01743 850332.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Soup of the day (£3.85); Crispy potato skins (£4.90)

Main courses

Mushroom, broccoli and Stilton pasta bake (£8.95); 12oz gammon (£12.65); Rainbow trout (£7.85)

Desserts

Vary each week but include a selection of homemade options (£4.25)

ATMOSPHERE