The Studio, Church Stretton

Rewind the clock ten years. Shropshire was enjoying a golden era of dining. The county was blessed with three Michelin-starred restaurants, south Shropshire had been dubbed the UK's rural capital of gourmet food, farmers' markets were flourishing and food festivals were starting to take off.

There was increased awareness about local produce, people were getting interested in provenance and topics like 'food miles' were starting to become buzzwords among people who are passionate about food.

The county was fortunate to have a number of high quality neighbourhood restaurants, too. Shaun Hill's Michelin-starred Merchant House, in Ludlow, epitomised the best aspects of the county's food scene. Hill was an integral part of the community. He was a figurehead for the fledgling Ludlow Food Festival, he could be seen each day at the town's market and his restaurant offered high quality food at affordable prices. Little wonder it was named the best-value-restaurant in the world . . . Yes, the world.

There were a number of similar operations. Sebastian's, in Oswestry and The Studio, in Church Stretton were among them. Chef-patrons ran brilliant neighbourhood restaurants that served up the best of local, seasonal food.

Tony and Sheila Martland, like Shaun Hill and the exceptional team at Sebastian's, are cut from the same cloth. They are an essential part of the local food economy, they are respected in their communities, they are trusted by guests.

People are happy to travel many miles to eat at their restaurants because they know the quality remains of the highest standard at all times. Consistency is a way of life. The Studio won its first AA Rosette ten years ago and it has retained it ever since. Their collection of AA plates fill wall space in their bar – if they stick around for much longer, they'll need to build an extension.

Tony, not normally a man moved to displays of emotion, once berated a reviewer for daring to give him four out of five. He could not conceive that his restaurant was worthy of anything other than the highest score. His food was brilliantly sourced, it was served in pleasing surrounds, his wife, Sheila, offered first rate service and the prices were affordable for all. On that basis, he reasoned, he was deserving of the top score.

While his argument was flawed – there are other restaurants who do all of that and do it a little bit better, therefore, they score the highest marks, win two rosettes, earn Michelin stars and so on – his logic was spot on. For ten years, The Studio has provided the people of Church Stretton and its hinterland with an exceptional deal. Tony and Sheila are an exceptional team whose dedication to duty and passion for their work is an example to all. Three courses for thirty quid is absurdly good value in the present era.

Things are changing, however. Tony and Sheila's neighbourhood restaurant is on the market. The couple are planning to sell up and sail off into the sunset. It'll be a sad day for Shropshire when they depart – though, no doubt, an enterprising couple or chef will step up to the plate.

Though many will lament their departure, others will be excited by what will follow. Just as the brilliant Will Holland, at La Becasse, in Ludlow, filled the void when Claude Bosi left the former Hibiscus restaurant in the town, so a new team will rejuvenate.

I was mindful of Tony and Sheila's impending departure when a friend and I made a recent visit for a midweek supper. Tony is a chef deserving of enormous respect. He prepares quality modern English food with obvious French influences. His restaurant is the type of place that one might expect to find in rural Gascony. He eschews modern conventions for swishes of puree, froths and foams and focuses on great flavours, precision cooking and artful presentation.

His dishes are all prepared from scratch: he doesn't buy-in ice creams, terrines, relishes or sauces. They are cooked with the intuitive skill that a French master might display.

The Studio is a pleasant venue in which to eat. It is housed in a former artists' studio, hence the name, and features an attractive patio garden that overlooks the Shropshire Hills. It is the perfect spot on warm summer evenings. The art theme continues within, where pictures from David Hockney and others bring colour and vibrancy to the walls.

There is a small bar area, decorated with Tony and Sheila's collection of AA plates, and my friend and I perused the evening's menu from there. There was a sensible selection of starters, mains and desserts – about five of each – featuring the best of seasonal ingredients.

My friend opted for a pea soup with pancetta to start and enjoyed the delicate combination of sweet, savoury and salty flavour. It had been excellently seasoned and was served in a voluminous bowl and presented with the pancetta atop. She ate every drop.

I went for a grilled goat's cheese starter. It was served on a thick slice of apple with a beetroot and ginger relish, port wine glaze and crispy pancetta. The saltiness of the cheese was balanced by the sweet sharpness of the apple. The acidity of the beetroot and ginger relish cut through the richness of the melted cheese. The saltiness of the pancetta added a flavour contrast to the sweet, sticky port wine glaze. The crunchiness of the pancetta also provided a textural contrast with the soft, melting cheese. It was a treat.

Sheila made regular visits to our table as we ate, making sure that we were happy with Tony's cooking and ferrying drinks to and fro. She was an exceptional host.

We had a brief rest before choosing our mains. I opted for a monkfish dish, which was sublime. A long monkfish tail had been sliced into thin, scallop-like rounds, seasoned with salt and pepper and then seared in a hot pan so that it had taken on a crispy, golden-coloured exterior. It was served with sweet and sour cucumber slices and a rich, cream and mustard sauce. It was so French I thought it might Va Va Voom straight out of the restaurant and catch a ferry to Calais.

It was served with chantenay carrots, mange tout and fine beans, all of which had been cooked with great expertise so that they were bursting with summery flavours but retained a little bite.

My friend opted for a steak, served on a potato rosti with a rich, savoury jus and vegetables. She relished every mouthful. It had come from a local butcher and been dry-aged, so that the flavours had developed and the meat had become meltingly tender.

We enjoyed a further pause before tackling dessert. My friend opted for a smooth, creamy raspberry brulee, which had a thick, crunchy caramel topping and raspberries within. It was served with a soft, dreamy ice cream and she purred her approval.

I opted for Tony's selection of homemade ice creams and sorbets. I ate them like a kid in a sweetshop. The mix of flavours – one sharp fruit, another chocolate and fudge, another light and creamy – made for pleasurable eating.

Our bill was remarkably good value and we had time at the end of the evening to drive along the nearby Burway, at Church Stretton, to watch the sunset over the Long Mynd. Such are the free-with-the-admission-price delights of dinner at The Studio.

While I'll be on red alert in coming days for Tony's phonecall – sorry Tony, it's still a four – I have no hesitation in recommending The Studio. It's a winning venue that continues to provide great food and service in pleasurable surrounds for a remarkably low price.

Shropshire will miss the Martlands when their venue sells, though wish them both a happy retirement. Presumably, they'll get to eat out, rather than having to cook for paying customers.

The Studio will provide a savvy restaurateur with an exceptional opportunity to build on the work that Tony and Sheila have completed during the past decade. It's in a prime location, buried deep in the heart of Touristville, on Church Stretton's main street, and is a potential gold mine.

It'll be sad to see one of Shropshire's remaining chef-patron-owned venues close; the county loves its neighbourhood restaurants and needs more of them. And though the Martlands are soon to depart, they'll be fondly remembered by the many who have eaten there.

ADDRESS

The Studio, High Street, Church Stretton SY6 6BY

Tel: 01694 722672

Web: www.thestudiorestaurant.net