Historic fashion collection brought back to life 50 years after devastating fire
The Ulster Museum’s entire costume and textile collection was destroyed following a firebomb attack at Malone House in 1976.
A huge fashion and textiles collection lost in a fire bomb attack in Belfast has been brought back to life 50 years later.
The blaze at Malone House in 1976, caused by two fire bombs, completely destroyed the Ulster Museum’s entire costume and textile collection.
However, after five decades of painstaking work, the museum said the collection has been reborn.
It described a major new exhibition of the collection, named Ashes to Fashion, as a cultural moment for the south Belfast museum, Northern Ireland and the fashion world.
It will reveal 50 years of dedicated collecting, and highlight the expertise and resilience involved in rebuilding a collection from scratch.
Bringing together five centuries of historic and contemporary garments and textiles, the collection has been rebuilt through thoughtful curation, acquisitions, donations and bequests.
Among the highlights of the 120 objects on display is the Lennox Quilt, the only surviving item from the original collection.
Measuring 6ft by 6ft and entirely handstitched, the quilt was made in 1712 by Martha Lennox, the daughter of John Hamilton, one of the first sovereigns, or mayors, of Belfast.
It was purchased at auction by the Ulster Museum in March 1976, and escaped destruction as it was on display at the museum at the time.
The earliest object on display will be a rare stumpwork embroidery casket from the 1660s, donated to the museum in 2025 by renowned needlework expert Lanto Synge.
Other items include silk gowns from the 18th century, juxtaposed with modern pieces including a Chanel Haute Couture suit worn by supermodel Christy Turlington.
A range of pieces by international and local designers will be on display for the first time ever, including items from Northern Ireland-born Jonathan Anderson, as well as Elie Saab, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Rodarte, Christopher Kane and Kindred of Ireland.
Charlotte McReynolds, curator of art at National Museums NI, said Ashes to Fashion allows the museum to tell the story of what happened next, and not dwell on the profound cultural loss.
“The 1976 fire destroyed around 10,000 items in the original collection, with garments affected by flames, smoke, heat and water,” she said.
“For curators, conservators and the wider museum team, the incident represented profound cultural loss.
“Now, 50 years on, it has become an opportunity to reflect on our resilience.
“The exhibition traces the journey from disaster to recovery, revealing the meticulous work undertaken by a succession of curators, beginning with Elizabeth McCrum, to rebuild a new collection from scratch.
“Ashes to Fashion reframes fashion.
“It positions textiles as significant cultural objects that carry stories, emotions and history, which can be both fragile and enduring.”
Kathryn Thomson, chief executive of National Museums NI, said the exhibition is an opportunity to transform people’s perceptions of museums.
She said: “Ashes to Fashion is an honest and powerful response to a devastating moment in our history.
“It acknowledges what was lost, whilst celebrating the extraordinary expertise involved in rebuilding it.
“It demonstrates how creativity and resilience can emerge from even the most devastating circumstances.
“At the heart of the exhibition is a commitment to transparency and reflection.
“Visitors are given rare insight into the behind-the-scenes realities of museum collecting and conservation.
“Resilience and constant renewal are markers of the fashion world, and now also of the Ulster Museum’s own reborn fashion collection.
“We are immensely proud to put on this exhibition, our first major fashion exhibition in 15 years, and look forward to welcoming new audiences to experience the Ulster Museum through the lens of fashion and design.”
Various public talks and workshops in partnership with Ulster University will take place while the exhibition runs, allowing students, designers and the public to connect with Ashes to Fashion beyond the gallery.
The Ashes to Fashion exhibition will open at the Ulster Museum on February 27.
Tickets can be booked at ulstermuseum.org/temporary-exhibition/ashes-fashion.
