Shropshire Star

Swan Hotel, Wellington

Rating **** James Shaw and his family discover fine food and super deals at eye-popping prices.

Published
Rating **** James Shaw

and his family discover fine food and super deals at eye-popping prices.

Some restaurants in Telford really don't have the reputation they deserve. Take the Swan in Wellington, for example - on the outside, there are few indicators of the treasures that lie within.

There are plenty of other pubs in the area that do the job of tempting passing trade with aplomb. You know the sort of thing – pastel colours on the walls, bright photos of steaming puds and promotion after promotion. But as ever, the devil is in the detail and goodness me, the Swan outshoots many of its rivals on virtually every point.

It may have been that we visited on a quiet Saturday afternoon, but my family and I found ourselves in a virtually deserted dining room. Louis certainly appreciated the chance to stretch his legs, but the vastness of the room means that if it is not full, diners feel rather alone. There are few corners to nestle into and enjoy the passing of a lazy afternoon. But that really is a nit-pick.

Firstly, the menu. We had stumbled on a rather special deal for Saturday lunchtimes – two courses for £5.50. And yes, we did have to look at it twice. Claire and I shot glances of confusion at each other as we surveyed the menu. Really? £5.50?

We both quickly chose our starters - I went for the chicken liver pate, while Claire had vegetable soup. Louis' choice was a hamburger from the children's menu, while Luca was happy to dive into a plate of chicken nuggets.

One of our main concerns was that with a price of just a few pounds, our portions would be tiny. Surely, they would have to make cutbacks somewhere? We were wrong. I was handed a hefty slab of delicious pate, along with all the usual accompaniments of salad and toast. No penny-pinching there, then. And it was the same with Claire's soup. She enjoyed a generous bowl of superb broth, along with a chunk of warm bread.

We asked for Louis and Luca's meals to be delivered with our starters. Anyway, Louis' burger meal arrived with chips and beans, and was big enough to feed an adult. So once again, Claire and I exchanged glances - were these meals really costing us so little? Luca's was of a similar size, and both came with ice cream for later.

For the main course, I asked for shepherd's pie, while Claire had the Sunday lunch. My pie was yet another triumph – it had plenty of fluffy mashed potato, with delicious meat below. Accompanying it was a superb gravy, giving the whole course a grand depth. But if that was a success, Claire's lunch was even bigger, in more ways than one. It arrived with a thud on the table and deservedly so.

Claire's plate was piled with lots of slices of turkey, along with a very generous amount of potatoes, vegetables and gravy. Remember, this was part two of a £5.50 meal option – the rest consisted of that soup. And there was no let-up in quality. The meat was moist, while the vegetables were well-cooked and plentiful.

So could we fault the Swan? On just one point, I suppose. The toilets desperately need updating to include proper disabled facilities and of course, a baby change station. It is possible to change a child's nappy in the toilets and they are big enough for wheelchairs, but there really should be separate areas.

And that is where the single star is lost. If it wasn't for the lack of those facilities, I would have no hesitation in handing the Swan a well-earned five stars. Not just for the quality of food, but the special offers throughout the week are spectacular. Just make sure you visit on a Saturday lunchtime.

ADDRESS

Swan Hotel, 106 Watling Street, Wellington, Telford TF1 2NH

Tel: 01952 223781

Web: www.swan-hotel-telford.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Breaded mushrooms - £2.95

Prawn cocktail - £3.35

MAINS

Chef's special lasagne - £8.45

10oz gammon - £9.95

DESSERTS:

Gateaux of the day - £1.95

Homemade apple pie - £1.95

SERVICE:

Really cannot be faulted and waiting time for our courses was spot on.

ATMOSPHERE:

The dining room is quite large, so on a quiet day it does seem rather lonely. Would benefit from a few more nooks and crannies.

DISABLED FACILITIES:

This is the only fault. Wheelchairs do fit into the toilets, but dedicated facilities are essential.

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