Reviewer’s rating *** Shirley Tart and friends find patient and friendly staff serving good food in the market town.

Generally, we are ladies who work flat out during that time some people call a mid-day break. On this day though, we became ladies who lunch.

And even though our friend who lives in Much Wenlock had been considerate in booking at The Fox for 1.30pm, we other two were still late.

A few diners lingered but were generally finishing off their meals rather than ordering. Tim and his pair of lovely, gentle dogs who in the nicest possible way, get round Much Wenlock, were at one end of the bar. We took over a table at the other end, rambling away as though we’d not seen each other for years.

Well that’s what ladies who lunch do, isn’t it? Apart from air kissing which we ditched in favour of chummy hugs.

The young members of staff in the bar could almost have been forgiven for a furtive look at the clock as we three met and settled down as though we – and they – had all day to spare.

But not at all. They were delightful and patient as we made jolly, gossipy points, waving our Bistro and Bar menus around rather than reading them.

However, a couple of dry white wines and a double tonic with ice and lemon later, we started browsing and comparing and eventually, deciding. Eureka!

We went straight for mains, Aidene (the forbearing one) had already decided before we arrived. Sausage and mash, please.

Inside The Fox, Much Wenlock

Right, it was for Sharon and myself to catch up. She very quickly spotted a favourite, the sardines.

I started that game of “Ah, I’ll have that” followed by three changes of mind, then in fairness to the poised pencil, went back to the Caesar salad (£8.95).

Now, there are salads and salads in Caesar’s name. The lettuce bed is a dodgy one to start with. Tossed in too much dressing for too long, even the freshest greenery becomes a limp and languid shadow of itself. Is this where the phrase ‘wet lettuce’ came from?

Could be. But no such worries here. My eminently enjoyable dish was top end of the yum-yum tree.

The cos lettuce was crisp as you’d want, the chicken breast perfectly cooked and attractively served in the smaller slices which appeal much more these days than attacking any robust side of meat – though The Fox sources theirs from local, organic outlets – and however they ‘griddle’ the bacon it was good with crunchy croutons adding that extra satisfaction. One happy diner then.

And it would appear the trio of Wenlock Edge sausage and creamy mash with rich onion gravy (£6.95) also scored with Aidene, a keen sportswoman who doesn’t award top marks lightly.

Sharon’s four (but they were nearly small trout size) pan fried sardines on a chorizo, butter bean and tomato ragout came as a mains or starter (£9.25 or £5.95) and were munched with a good deal of enthusiasm.

The menu also offered tempters like traditional soup with freshly baked herb bread (£4.95), creamy scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and toast (£5.50) and marinated olives with warm bread and dipping oil (£3.95) – would have been mine, had we been doing lingering starters.

Mains include steak and omelettes and it’s a good sign when diners are heard to be saying “next time I’ll try . . .”, which is what we late lunchers were doing.

The Fox, at the end of the High Street going out of town, has had several dining lives in recent times. Present proprietor and chef John Davison (once at London’s Savoy) creates an enjoyable experience with wife Hannah and staff and even on the one visit in its present era, I’d happily recommend.

But back to the yum-yum tree. We had to try puddings even though by then it was getting on for teatime. Aidene’s creme brulee with damson compote (£5.50), an apple tart tatin with apricot glaze and butterscotch icecream (£5.75) for Francophile foodie Sharon and my all time favourite summer berry pudding (£5.95) sealed. After coffees all round, we flitted off on our separate ways. When we three do meet again, it could well be on a return visit to The Fox.

Bill for three £59.40

ADDRESS
The Fox, 46 High Street, Much Wenlock, TF13 6AD
Tel: 01952 727292