Golden Moments, Ludlow

Star rating: ****Alex Walters finds that an Indian old favourite is even better after a London-style makeover

Star rating:

****

Alex Walters

finds that an Indian old favourite is even better after a London-style makeover

Indian food, I have always felt, is a curious beast to categorise. Upon hearing the phrase I immediately think of curry, chicken tikka masala to be precise. This perception, it seems, is rather narrow-minded – chicken tikka masala wasn't even invented until the 1960s . . . in Glasgow.

We Brits eat a phenomenal amount of the stuff; indeed, various dubious studies claim it has become our national dish, and a number of less dubious studies have suggested that hotter curries stimulate the body to release endorphins, leading to an apparent 'curry addiction' in extreme cases. Addiction isn't quite the word I would use to describe my propensity to choose Golden Moments in Ludlow as my regular curry house, but it's a close run thing.

Ludlovians have always been spoiled for choice when it comes to eating out – if you can afford Michelin starred cuisine, that is. A good, reasonably priced restaurant has not always been so easy to find, and so it was with great delight that Golden Moments was received into the fold of the town's restaurants. For several years it has pitched itself perfectly as the gourmet curry house for a gourmet town, without charging its customers the earth.

The delights of Golden Moments have graced these pages before. It achieved a stellar review on its last outing, and its recent refurbishment and revamped menu gave me the perfect excuse to see if the standard had remained high. It is with no exaggeration that I report that I was shocked after my outing – it is far, far better.

I initially had my doubts about the new layout, a white, minimalist affair. I have occasionally been tempted into such modern, ludicrously expensive establishments on Brick Lane in East London, only to discover that for all the snazzy decor, the decorators themselves might as well have been cooking the food. Across the road lie the old fashioned curry houses that stink of damp, but are populated by reams of Bangladeshis, all guzzling enormous vats of food so delicious it would be fit for a Maharajah – the money having been spent on the food and not the Damien Hirst on the wall.

Golden Moments might have jazzed itself up, but they appear to have spent just as much time and money on the menu. To start my companion and I shared a tandoori platter of chicken tikka, lamb tikka and sheek kebab (£8.90). As usual the restaurant was jam-packed and we had to wait a little for our food, but in the circumstances this was understandable, and was amply compensated by the excellent service and the swiftly delivered pints of Cobra. The wait was also placated by the entertainment of hearing a chap from Birmingham on the table next to us tell the waiter (who had a broader Birmingham accent than he did), that in England it rains all the time, miming rain in order to get himself understood. The staff, it appears, are not only excellent but also extremely patient.

The platter was superb, tender, juicy meat served with myriad chutneys, sauces and vast poppadoms. The sheek kebab had none of the toughness common in less refined establishments and fell apart in the mouth. To follow it up I decided to tear myself away from my usual murghi makani (always delicious and highly recommended) and try a jingha chilli bhuna (£12.95), while my companion opted for a golden murghi (£7.25).

The jingha chilli bhuna consists of three king prawns, cooked with dry spices and garam massalla, pickled in naga chilli. At £12.95 I was a little dubious about the rather meagre sounding three king prawns but pressed on regardless, intrigued by what made them so special.

I was wrong, oh so very wrong, to doubt the portions. Upon arrival on the great chariots that wheel the food from kitchen to table, I was greeted by three prawns that were, no word of a lie, bigger than my closed fist. They were tender, succulent, and perfectly spiced. The dish was fairly hot, but was so well balanced in flavour that even a mild curry fan would be unlikely to struggle with it. My companion's golden murghi was equally well received, and the couple of mouthfuls that I enjoyed were rich, spicy and well seasoned. The presence of ground mustard seed gave the dish some kick – it isn't one for the light hearted.

These mountains of food were supplemented by proper naan bread. It is a common trick in Indian restaurants to use poor quality naan, then to place it in the oven wrapped in foil and a layer of water. This gives the naan that soft, kneaded quality that in fact often leads to a soggy lump of dough. No such chicanery here, the naans were fresh, naturally soft and generously proportioned.

After a couple of espressos to round off I left Golden Moments stunned by the quality of the food, the service, and even the new decor. I have since taken my girlfriend, who is a veteran of three trips to India, and she was adamant that it was the best Indian cuisine she had ever had. I have never been to India, but I have certainly never found better on these shores.

ADDRESS

Golden Moments, 50 Broad Street, Ludlow SY8 1NH

Tel: 01584 878488

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Samosa (£2.95)

Tandoori chicken on the bone (£3.95)

Main courses

Coriander murghi, with sliced ginger, fresh coriander and cumin (£7.25)

Biryani selection (from £6.25 - £9.95)

Sides

Tarka dhall (£2.75)