I learned the secrets of perfect porridge from a former Bake Off star ahead of her Golden Spurtle contest debut

Every year, in a community hall of a small Scottish village, passionate competitors from around the globe take part in the world’s annual porridge-making championship - The Golden Spurtle.

This year, 30 competitors will descend on the village of Carrbridge - which, for the rest of the year, is home to little else than a couple of cafes, a golf course, a SPAR and a population of around 700 people. 

The long list of oat-lovers deemed worthy to take part in this quirky competition, now in its 32nd year, includes competitors from 14 nations, among them Pakistan, Australia, the USA, Finland, and the Philippines.

But this year, on October 4, a familiar face from closer to home will be making the trek up north, with former Great British Bake Off (GBBO) contestant Nicky Laceby having been given the honour of taking part. 

Nicky, who is originally from Dundee, now lives near Albrighton with her husband and two cocker spaniels, Bracken and Haggis - and became somewhat of a GBBO icon with her beaver-shaped showstopper cake named Norman in 2023.

When, two weeks ago, I suggested Nicky might teach me the secrets of great porridge making, I didn't think there was a chance I'd pull it off. 

So no-one was more surprised than I when she not only agreed, but also enthusiastically welcomed me into her beautiful home and kitchen this week.

In the two years since appearing in the GBBO tent, Nicky has been kept busy, working alongside food companies, giving talks, writing recipes - and, more recently, baking wedding cakes. 

But for the last few weeks, her next challenge has kept her pretty occupied in the kitchen. 

"I'm thrilled, I love it, I absolutely love it," she said, effusive at the mention of the upcoming competition, which she's been following for several years.

"What a quirky, bizarre and really cool thing to be part of.

"I'm making porridge almost every day, it's taking my husband back to when I was in the tent and churning stuff out until two in the morning."

The Golden Spurtle, named after the Scottish stirring stick, gives competitors just half an hour to prepare two pints of traditional porridge using just oatmeal, water, and salt, and a 'speciality porridge' dish where entrants can unleash their creativity.

While Nicky kept shtum over her plans, previous 'speciality porridge' category winners have taken home the trophy with dishes that include arancini and sweet and savoury porridge noodles.

There's a long list of rules and requirements, including that the traditional porridge must be made with untreated oatmeal only - not with the rolled oats gathering dust in most of our kitchen cupboards.  

Competitors must bring their own everything - oatmeal, salt, pots, pans and, of course, spurtles.

Nicky's oatmeal is coming with her from Shropshire, proudly provided by Caroline Waterhouse of Pimhill Farm near Shrewsbury - who might be more excited about the competition than the competitor.

"I was really very excited when Nicky phoned me. It's The Golden Spurtle - the zeneth of porridge making," Caroline said.

"It couldn't be more off the wall if it tried; it's just so wholesome." 

Nicky added: "I think it's about having fun and being part of something that's heartwarming. There's no malice in it, it's a feel-good competition.

"I've been using Pimhill's oats for a while now, they're locally sourced and organic and that's really important to me."

Now to her technique, as experienced by me - an avid 'pure vibes' porridge maker. 

According to Nicky, perfect porridge requires 25g per person of oatmeal with around 220ml of water. Bring it to a boil, and keep stirring it, preferably with a spurtle (clockwise, because of something to do with the devil).

Originating in the 15th century, a spurtle (or spurtel, spurtil or spirtle) is like a thin rolling pin with at least one tapered end, which apparently avoids the pesky problem of porridge clumping.

Brandishing the spurtle, similar to one she took to (and mysteriously lost in) the GBBO tent, Nicky explained: "Basically, it's a stick. Supposedly, it doesn't allow the porridge to stick to the pot as much and gets into all the corners." 

It's a much wetter experience of porridge making than I'm used to at home, where I chuck some rolled oats in a pan and add water until it's slightly damper than an unbaked cake (I like the chew).

Nicky's reduces slowly, taking almost 25 minutes to form a skin on top that suggests it's just right. 

Hers is a technique formed as the daughter of two passionate porridge makers, with both her mum and dad becoming "really vocal" during Nicky's competition prep.

"My mum and dad have their own Golden Spurtle, they have competitions. They both make it completely differently; mine is a combination of both," she added. 

A "good pinch" of salt is added for each serving while the porridge is cooking, with more added later to taste if necessary. 

Regarding toppings, Nicky prefers a sweet topping generally, and prepared for us a combination of cinnamon-baked apple chunks, chopped pecans and greek yoghurt. 

In a flourish worthy of the big white tent, she added an edible flower for decoration - and it was perfection. Wholesome, hearty, creamy, nutty goodness worthy of a golden, nay, a diamond spurtle!

An Australian documentary filmed around the 2023 Golden Spurtle competition was released in the UK this week and is being shown in cinemas around the country. 

The 32nd Golden Spurtle competition will be taking place on October 4, and will be streamed live around the world.