I found bookshops, castle views and quirky treasures in Wales’ prettiest town

Quirky and charming, I took a closer look at a town on my doorstep recently named one of the world's most beautiful

Wales is well known for its stunning scenery and picturesque towns from the rugged Eryri National Park and the Brecon Beacons to wonderful Portmeirion and Tenby.

But when Hay on Wye recently claimed the title of being one of the most beautiful towns in the world and the finest in Wales, I had to revisit.

Huge Adam Ant fan Karen Compton managed to find one of his singles amongst thousands of records in Haystacks.placeholder image
Huge Adam Ant fan Karen Compton managed to find one of his singles amongst thousands of records in Haystacks. | Andy Compton

Living just 25 minutes from Hay on Wye its somewhere I visit a few times a year to wander the narrow lanes, browse in the unique independent shops and enjoy the architecture and feel of the town with its castle, timber-framed buildings and beautiful surrounding countryside.

I know its special and a joy to wander around and I am grateful to live so close to such a gem.

But now the town has been named one of the world's most beautiful towns, following a ranking by Love Exploring, where it was placed 48th out of 67 global destinations, I thought it was time for a closer look.

Karen Compton taking in some of the narrow and charming streets in Hay on Wyeplaceholder image
Karen Compton taking in some of the narrow and charming streets in Hay on Wye | Andy Compton

Hay-on-Wye also topped the acclaimed list as the prettiest town in Wales, beating the harbour town of Tenby, which ranked 65th.

Hay-on-Wye's reputation as the 'town of books' certainly contributes to its newfound fame, with around a myriad of bookshops housed in ancient stone buildings and timber-framed structures along the narrow streets.

Hay's town clock at the end of the street featuring Richard Booth's The King of Hay Bookshopplaceholder image
Hay's town clock at the end of the street featuring Richard Booth's The King of Hay Bookshop | Andy Compton

There's a reason its called National Book Town - visitors will find novels around every corner, adorning doorways and tucked away in ancient stone walls. In fact, the town has more bookstores than anywhere else in Wales, given its compact size, with a population of under 2,000 residents.

Love Exploring hailed Hay-on-Wye as a "must visit for bibliophiles", thanks to its "vast array of bookshops".

One of Hay's narrow, winding streets filled with interesting, unique shopsplaceholder image
One of Hay's narrow, winding streets filled with interesting, unique shops | Andy Compton

The transformation from market town of the Marches to Book Town of the world began in 1962 by bookseller Richard Booth. In 1977 King Richard, as he had become known, announced that Hay would become independent from the rest of the UK. The revolution was televised and Hay thrived on it.

The imposing Hay Castle looking over the town and its war memorialplaceholder image
The imposing Hay Castle looking over the town and its war memorial | Andy Compton

The influence of the self-proclaimed 'King of Hay' continues to shape the town, most notably through Richard Booth's Bookshop on Lion Street, previously described as the 'world's largest second-hand bookshop' and today recognised as 'one of Europe's largest second-hand bookshops'. The three-storey treasure trove overflows with pre-loved and new titles, alongside art and craft materials, all contained within a distinctive timber structure featuring an eye-catching red-and-white 19th-century exterior.

One of Hay's famous bookshops Murder and Mayhemplaceholder image
One of Hay's famous bookshops Murder and Mayhem | Andy Compton

There are plenty more to discover from pre-owned volumes at Green Ink Booksellers to detective fiction at Murder and Mayhem, speculative literature at Bookshop 451, collectable editions at Francis Edwards, The Children's Bookshop, Hay Cinema Bookshop and Hay on Wye Comics, The Addyman Annexe and Addyman Books has been trading since 1987.

Karen Compton enjoying Hay's riverside walkplaceholder image
Karen Compton enjoying Hay's riverside walk | Andy Compton

But Hay isn't only about books there are plenty of other independent offerings including Tom's Record Shop, Haystacks Music Nan Tiques and more, plus Mostly Maps. These sit alongside honesty bookstalls, and shelves dotted throughout the town that is packed with tales.

Some of the wildlife sculptures hidden along Hay's riverside walkplaceholder image
Some of the wildlife sculptures hidden along Hay's riverside walk | Andy Compton

There is a Thursday market all year, a Saturday produce market and a Friday vintage market from March to October, various clothes and jewellery shops, galleries such as The Table, delis, plenty of cafes, restaurants, pubs and hotels to refuel.

There is even a golden pillar box celebrating local hero Josie Pearson who won gold at the London Paralympics in 2012 in the discus.

A Shop called Alice filled with Alice in Wonderland Shop books, prints gifts etc from the former collection of Mr Edward Wakeling complemented with more modern additionsplaceholder image
A Shop called Alice filled with Alice in Wonderland Shop books, prints gifts etc from the former collection of Mr Edward Wakeling complemented with more modern additions | Andy Compton

But everything in Hay is quirky and done with humour from the golden geese as Goosy Gander's lighting shop, and an Alice in Wonderland Shop filled with the former collection of Mr Edward Wakeling and more modern additions.

Standing high above Hay's wonderful streets is Hay Castle. King Richard put the property up for sale in 2011 and the charity Hay Castle Trust was formed in order to keep Hay Castle as a public building for the people of Hay and visitors to enjoy.

Hay Castle as it is now, opened to the public in 2022 and now holds tours, various events, is home to a cafe, a shop and changing exhibitions.placeholder image
Hay Castle as it is now, opened to the public in 2022 and now holds tours, various events, is home to a cafe, a shop and changing exhibitions. | Andy Compton

In 2016 Hay Castle Trust received a National Lottery Heritage Fund grant, and in July 2018 builders John Weavers started a four year construction period. The Castle as it is now opened to the public in 2022 and now holds tours, various events, is home to a cafe, a shop and changing exhibitions.

The Welsh town also plays host to the Hay Festival in May each year, one of the world's finest literary celebrations, which honours literature and the arts across 11 days and attracts as many as 250,000 visitors.

Hay's butter market was built by a local entrepreneur in 1830 and provides a covered area for traders and farmers on rainy market daysplaceholder image
Hay's butter market was built by a local entrepreneur in 1830 and provides a covered area for traders and farmers on rainy market days | Andy Compton

Having just held a Fungi Festival, the town is now preparing for its Hay Festival Winter Weekend held in late November, a smaller version of the summer event but with a packed programme of speakers and incorporating the Christmas lights switch on.

After all the shopping and reading, there is a wonderful riverside walk along the Wye – a chance to spot some wildlife and some wonderful wildlife sculptures, enjoy some refreshments or a picnic and even a paddle in the summer.

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