Retro road trip on a break to Rome

Hollywood stars we may not be, but my wife and I certainly felt like it as we played out the roles of Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn in our very own version of the classic Roman Holiday.

But while Hepburn was a royal princess and Peck a reporter, the only thing we had in common during our three-night break was the scooter – or to be more exact, the back seat of two Vespa scooters.

And while the stars of the 1953 romantic comedy zipped around Rome on a scooter, we also saw much of what the city has to offer on what turned out to be a quite splendid guided tour with a difference.

And although scooters are everwhere, not many of them are older models, and they still turn heads.

So we found ourselves at the "mercy" of our two guides, Stefano Lucarni and Domencio Cicarelli, better known as Mimmo – and a lot easier to pronounce.

They work for Sergio Caggia, founder of Nerone Tours, who came up with the idea of organising Vespa tours of Rome after spending nearly a decade of giving private walking tours of the city.

A fan of classic cars and scooters himself, he used his connections with local enthusiast clubs to find owners willing to use their vehicles to transport tourists around Rome.

And so at 9am sharp on the Saturday morning our two guides picked us up at our hotel, we climbed aboard as pillion passengers and there followed a fascinating four-hour tour that really was the highlight of our trip.

The sun was shining as we zipped between cars and buses, but never too fast to cause any concern.

Ros, my better half, was a lot more fearful when she first took her place behind me on my 1961 Lambretta, so it was not a new experience.

First stop was the Palazzo del Quirinale, the official residence of the president, before pulling up in Venice Square to take in the impressive Victor Emmanuel II Monument "Vittoriano" – built in neo-classical style, but not an ancient monument – it was actually built in the early 20th Century.

Then it was onward and upward to take in the grandeur of the Colosseum and Arch of Constantine before negotiating the cobblestones of the Appian Way, then stopping off again to view the remains of the Baths of Caracalla.

Escaping the traffic we found peace and quiet at the non-Catholic Cemetery for Foreigners, the final resting place for many "names" all drawn by "the fatal charm of Italy" – including English poets Keats and Shelley.

Taking time out for a well-earned coffee break at the Linari Bar in the Testaccio district, we found we had much in common.

For though being a good 20 years younger than me, Stefano and Mimmo both loved vintage scooters and bands like The Who and Rolling Stones – they were well impressed when I told them I'd seen The Who several times in their heyday.

Though my claim to fame of riding all the way from Shropshire to the Isle of Wight scooter rally and back paled into insignificance when Stefano revealed that he had ridden his scooter from Rome to London – and back – for the international Vespa rally last June.

Then it was back on the pillion, for fantastic views across the city from the orange garden on Aventine Hill.

But there was better to come, and if you're ever in Rome make sure you don't miss this view through the keyhole – that's exactly what it is.

It's a little way off the beaten tourist track, and you may have to queue, but it's worth the wait as you look through the ornate keyhole in the locked gates of the Church of Our Lady of the Priory at the splendid vista of St Peter's Basilica floating at the end of an avenue of carefully trimmed trees.

The four hours fled by, but we also looked out over the Circus Maximus, finally stopping atop the Janiculum, Rome's highest hill. Then it was drop off time at our hotel, The Savoy, which proved a great base for our three-night stay.

Rome certainly is a walking city, so it you want to be fancy free, prepare to be a bit footsore.

We were just a 10-minute stroll from the Metro, Rome's busy underground system which although having just two lines whisks you to the Vatican which is just four stops away from the Barberini station.

And it's a lot cheaper than risking a taxi. A return on the Metro is three euros, while one-way by taxi is around 15 – and that's if the roads are fairly clear, which in the Eternal City is highly unlikely.

The Vatican, complete with its museums and the incredible Sistine Chapel, is obviously the number one attraction in Rome.

But for me there was little enjoyment in our visit, even after joining a "skip the line" guided walking tour. There really are just too many people.

It is so noisy that the running commentary from the guide literally washed over us as we were herded from one place to another – and the Sistine Chapel was heaving.

No wonder that one of Italy's most respected writers has called for a drastic reduction in the number of visitors.

But that will never happen, although describing the crowds as "wall to wall" is being kind.

Fortunately this is not the case at other must-sees, including the Trevi Fountain – itself famously featured in Roman Holiday – where we sat and enjoyed an ice cream, and the Spanish Steps, which although very busy were not madly so – or at least not when we visited.

We travelled with Italian specialist Citalia, and the trip went like clockwork from start to finish. We flew from Birmingham, were picked up at Rome's Fiumicino airport and onto our hotel.

We were lucky enough to be given a room upgrade, one with plenty of space and even a small balcony.

Eating out isn't cheap – and neither would you expect it to be – but you can get a pizza and a half-litre of local beer for around 10 euros, while a three-course meal in a restaurant was around 40 euros apiece, plus wine. So make sure you're prepared, for both the walking and the spending.

And if you really want to get around, the scooter tour comes highly recommended.

Fact file:

• Citalia (0844 415 1956, see www.citalia.com), the leading Italianholiday specialist has an extensivecollection of holidays throughout Rome and Italy. A three-night break at the Hotel Savoy in Rome costs from £389 per person. The price includes return flights from Manchester with Jet 2 and three nights bed and breakfast accommodation at the four star Hotel Savoy, in a superb location from which to explore the city. A complimentary meal per person is included as well as a saving of £140 per couple. Price based on departures 25 January 2013. Alternatively if you prefer, a later date, prices start from £415 per person departing 25 February 2013.

• Four days parking at Birmingham Short and medium Stay car park – from £51.99.

• To book visit www.holidayextras.com or call 0800 1313 777.

• Nerone Tours Italy: Web site: www.neronetoursitaly.com Type of tour: Your of Rome by Vespa Note: this is a chauffeured tour, clients ride as passengers sitting onthe back of the Vespa. Cost: €180 per person Duration: Day time tours (9AM and 2/3PM), 4 hours. Night time tours (8PM), 3 hours