Getting a taste for ‘the good life’ in Belgium
Thursday 14th April 2011, 10:47AM BST.
It is a general misconception that the French have the fine food market sewn up – and to be fair I can see how that has happened, writes Sharon Walters.

MIchelin-starred Gert De Mangeleer, who demonstrated at the Flemish Primitives, at his restaurant just outside Bruges
French chefs have been at the forefront of many gastronomic endeavours since the days of chef and restaurateur Auguste Escoffier when he really set the standards high for French food by updating traditional French cooking methods.
He began his career in the kitchen at the age of 13 in 1859 and finished 61 years later – making a huge contribution to fine cuisine.
But . . . today we have so many fine chefs from all over the world and just across the channel in Belgium there is more than just beer!
Where shall we go for dinner tonight? What shall we eat?
These two questions are often heard all over Flanders. In a region where “the good life” and nice food have become second nature this shouldn’t surprise anyone. The Flemish people are connoisseurs when it comes to good food and dining is the national sport. The Belgians refer to it as “Vlaanderen Lekker Land”, a foodie’s paradise. Good food and drink is something they’ve grown up with.
Where would you like to go for dinner?
Now, that is a difficult question. Where to start? There are 17,334 restaurants to choose from in Belgium. That equates to one restaurant per 353 inhabitants. You’re looking for that little bit extra? Go for one of the Michelin-starred restaurants. Do take into account, though, that Flanders possesses the highest number of Michelin stars per inhabitant. No other European country scores higher.
No matter where you are in Flanders, you can always count on being served good food, whether you opt for a simple pub meal or pop into one of the many trendy bistros or brasseries. And it isn’t likely to break the bank either! The Flemish people are quite critical when it comes to food and a good price/quality ratio is of the utmost importance.
What would you like to eat?
Flemish cuisine is unlimited in its diversity. Quality and freshness take pride of place. Flemish chefs don’t have to scour the land to find it either, as each region offers a wealth of quality ingredients. No other country in the world can lay claim to having developed and perfected so many different vegetables.
Consider Belgian endive (or chicory), Brussels’ sprouts, cabbage lettuce, hop shoots, red carrots, cauliflower and green peas. White asparagus are eaten “a la Flamande” all over the world. And this is just one of many iconic dishes originating from the Flemish cuisine.
Many of these dishes can be traced back to the Middle Ages and there are many unique products to offer. There’s grey shrimp, for instance. The shrimp are caught at night, right off the coast, and are boiled on the boat before being auctioned off first thing in the morning. Local chefs often turn them into shrimp croquettes served with some deep-fried parsley and lemon wedges.
So it is no wonder that food is celebrated in a big way. Three years ago a group of foodies created The Flemish Primitives – a “congress” of food.
Last year the event was held in Bruges where five technological innovations were presented. This year The Flemish Primitives got back to cooking and were based in the port of Ostende – a real foodie treat. For the third edition, the innovation came from confrontation between different chefs. There were many Belgian chefs and several international guests from as far afield as Brazil and Norway. There were specialist workshops and pairings of chefs on stage to talk about their food ethos and cook dishes.
“As chefs, the food industry and scientists, we have to take a real good look around us. Not only at what other colleagues are up to, but at what is happening in the world, too. First and foremost, of course, we want to provide delicious food, but we should also get stirred up about challenges such as overfishing and C02 emissions,” said a spokesman.
And now back to Ostende, a charming town and port, once subjected to too many English visitors – when the direct ferry and hydrofoil were in operation – who mainly made the trip over the water to enjoy cheap beer on hen and stag nights. Nowadays you have to cross a little bit further away – or even take Eurostar to Brussels and then the local train out – which puts off the drinkers!
Ostende has fabulous beaches and plenty to see and do, from the cathedral to the charming fishing port and several historic boats, including the last Icelandic trawler that used to operate out of Ostende.
And then there is the food . . . from those delicious grey shrimp to fantastic fish stew and not forgetting the iconic Belgian dish of steak frites.
A great place for a short break and if the Flemish Primitives is staged there next year what a great foodie treat.
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