CARL JONES cruises into the Arctic Circle for 12 days of fjords, fine dining and stylish fun

As the clock ticks over to midnight, the sun refuses to surrender. Crowds gather on deck, armed with all manner of cameras, to record this calmly surreal occasion.

It’s the Land of the Midnight Sun; a corner of the planet where, for more than two months every year, the sun never sets.

We’re in the southern waters of the Arctic Ocean, on board majestic cruise ship Crown Princess, as part of a 12-night “North Cape and Norwegian Fjords” adventure. And adventure is certainly the word.

My wife hates flying. Always has. And, after nearly 19 years of marriage, I’m now resigned to the fact that she always will.

So, praise the lord for the thriving port of Southampton, which allows us to explore far-flung lands without taking an aerial route.

It was here that we joined our Princess Cruises ship for one of the most magical and memorable trips we’ve had.

Journeys to the North Cape conjure up images of husky dogs, sleds, and Roald Amundsen-style expeditions across treacherous polar bear-infested icecaps.

But (depending on what time of the year you go, of course), a trip to the northernmost tip of Europe can be far sunnier, and more tourist-friendly than you think.

The view from the deck

On Crown Princess, you can toast your crossing into the Arctic Circle with a cocktail, chill out with a spa treatment, feast on a seven-course gourmet meal . . . or just curl up with a good book in one of the ship’s many peaceful corners and escape. Completely.

For on a vessel of this size, it’s not difficult to find a place to suit all manner of moods.

Crown Princess is a sumptuously satisfying ship. Smart and stylish, but never snooty, it carries over 3,000 passengers, served by 1,200 crew members drawn from all around the world — each with their own amazing stories to tell.

You have to admire them, working flat-out from dawn til dusk to earn much needed cash for their families, many of whom they don’t see for 10 months at a time.

It’s no good picking a great ship, though, unless you combine it with a fascinating itinerary. And Crown Princess, with its unhurried ambience, is a perfect floating hotel from which to watch the spectacular scenery drift by.

Now here’s a starter for 10 . . . what does Shropshire’s Ironbridge Gorge have in common with Norway’s Geiranger fjordland, and its historic coastal city of Bergen?

Answer: They all have official World Heritage Site status, ranking them as wonders of our modern world.

Geiranger, in fact, was our very first experience of the fjords, and was simply stunning.

The three-hour cruise through glassy waters, past soaring rockfaces and quaint, gravity-defying settlements as Crown Princess wound its way to the tiny coastal inlet, must surely rank among the most captivating journeys on the planet.

By the time we tore ourselves away from our plush cabin’s balcony, we’d missed dinner!

Well, actually, that’s not strictly true, because it’s impossible to miss mealtime on Crown Princess. Somewhere, on one of its 19 decks, food is always being served, whether it’s the full waiter service, an international hot and cold food buffet, pizzas, burgers, or sandwiches.

And at one of the ship’s trademark features, Movies Under the Stars, where a giant cinema screen on top deck invites guests to take to their sunbeds and enjoy the toast of Hollywood, they even deliver free popcorn!

Once upon a time, cruises were all about formal black-tie evenings and rigid dining times.

Laid-back

These days, people want a more laid-back experience, and Princess has recognised this by offering “anytime dining” at two of its biggest restaurants.

If there are no free tables when you arrive, staff give you a hand-held buzzer which flashes when space becomes available.

Even at peak dining times, we never had to wait longer than five minutes for a table for two.

There were only two “formal” nights on our 12-day trip, when black tie or lounge suits are expected to be worn. The rest of the time, evenings were “smart casual” affairs.

So what of our ports of call? After a relaxing first day at sea, through the straits of Dover past the North Sea oilfields, we arrived at Stavanger, a sedate, fairly forgettable place with its old port, well preserved 18th Century houses, cathedral and Iron Age farm.

In the land of the midnight sun

It will always be remembered for one thing, though, for it was here that my wife Rachel purchased a rather fetching Norwegian hat, with thermal earflaps, which would prove priceless as we headed further north.

After the aforementioned day in Geiranger, we cruised into Trondheim, a bustling, cosmopolitan city mixing big city shopping malls with royal palaces and fine seafood restaurants on the quayside.

Crossing the Arctic Circle, the sea becomes noticeably darker, and by the time we arrived at Nordkapp — the northernmost point of Europe — the bleak, spectacular tundra made the Scottish Highlands look positively lush.

Alongside Geiranger, this was the highlight of the trip.

Many guests hopped on a coach to stand on the northernmost piece of rock, where an observatory and lookout point awaits.

But knowing Crown Princess was going to sail in more leisurely fashion past this point later that evening, we instead chose an island tour which took us to a couple of quaint fishing villages where the locals make their living catching cod, drying the fruits of their labours on racks, and past herds of roaming reindeer,.

One word of warning. Don’t get too excited about the Christmas shop mentioned in the tour literature. I’ve seen garden sheds bigger, and with more interesting contents, too!

We also “chilled out” at the Artico ice bar in the centre of the area’s main town, Honningsvag. It costs around £12 per person, which sounds a bit steep, but we decided that if you’re ever going to set foot in an igloo-style building made entirely of ice, the closest European point to the North Pole was the place.

Another highlight was the tiny town of Flam, reached by an awe-inspiring voyage through the Aurlands fjord, bordered by fertile farmlands, crystal clear streams and snow-capped mountains.

We spent a few hours up in the mountains, courtesy of the Flamsbahn railway, which crisscrosses the river and impossibly beautiful valley floor on its way to the 900-metre summit.

Up on deck

At more than £70, the official organised trip was a bit steep for what we got — but the train is often a sell-out, and same-day tickets are in short supply.

Back at sea level, I had a quick paddle in the fjord (it was freezing), took a look round the Flam brewery, then hopped back on board.

We missed dinner again, transfixed by the sail-away scenery. No wonder so many passengers were taking advantage of the excellent, efficient and free room service.

After a day in Tromso, where the Polar Museum featuring many of Amundsen’s memorabilia is well worth an hour of anyone’s time, the final stop-off was Bergen.

Dodging the rain showers (which the city apparently gets 300 days a year) we headed for the fascinating, timbered old quarter at Bryggen.

We also savoured the sights and smells of the bustling food market, where the locals in these parts don’t bat an eyelid at the offer of reindeer sausages, and whale steaks.

If prizes for breathtaking coastal scenery were handed out, Norway would scoop the Euromillions.

And if you want to be royally entertained while taking in its sights, then don’t hesitate to make a date with this beautiful Princess.

This is perhaps not the best itinerary for guests with mobility problems — tender boats are needed to take Crown Princess guests ashore at a couple of the ports, and access to some of the best fjordland scenery is, naturally, steep.

But frankly, you could still enjoy a top-notch holiday without setting foot off the ship.

There’s live West End-quality theatre every night, plush lounges, a swanky casino, dance clubs, bars, art auctions, a crazy golf course and golf simulator, plus state-of-the-art spa and gym.

And it you want the ultimate pampered luxury, for a small fee you can soak up The Sanctuary, an adults-only oasis of calm.

You don’t fall asleep for 40 minutes on a top deck sunbed, in a blustery force seven gale on your final day at sea, if you’re not truly chilled out.

Yes, honest, I did. I don’t make a habit of it, but it just felt such a natural thing to do.

FACTBOX

• Crown Princess is currently cruising around the British Isles, Channel Islands and Iceland.
• Its next 12-night Norwegian Fjords and North Cape cruise leaves Southampton on June 27, 2011.
• Prices start at £1,357 per person.
• A seven-day Norway route, from July 9, missing out the North Cape, has prices from £806.
• Check out the special offers of the Princess Cruises website: www.princess.com