The master of all chefs
Wednesday 21st September 2011, 10:30AM BST.
Blood had already been spilled on the Celebrity MasterChef set, as lingerie entrepreneur Michelle Mone filleted her hand, rather than the fish, in the very first episode.
But that’s ancient history to the show’s presenter John Torode, who’s currently filming the main MasterChef series, set to air early next year.
As the presenter of a trio of MasterChefs (Junior MasterChef being the third), many wannabe chefs have passed through his kitchens. But despite having presented more than 14 series of the hit cooking show, he finds the search for new talent never wears thin.
“There are highlights within every series. Times when you taste something and it brings you into absolute raptures. And you hope that continues all the way through,” he says.
At the moment, the Aussie chef is up to his neck in amateurs competing for the coveted Masterchef Of The Year title. “Starting a new series, you have the most extraordinary sense of expectation,” says Torode, happy to talk, but careful not to give away any revelatory details.
“We’re in the throws of discovering the best amateur cooks in the country and there’s nothing more brilliant than that.”
And of course, he and co-presenter Greg Wallace aren’t at all picky…
“They have a gift,” says Torode emphatically about what makes a winner. “In the same way some people are able to play an instrument with what seems like no effort at all, great cooks have a palate, their senses are alive.
“It’s not just about how things look and taste, but how they feel, their texture, their smell and how they cook. It’s almost like they’ve got an extra sense and can harness it to make something extraordinary.”
During the past decade, Torode has enjoyed being at the centre of Britain’s food revolution. Masterchef winners have come from far and wide – a reflection of how high-quality cooking has infiltrated every corner of the British Isles.
For Torode, some of his favourite food haunts are way outside of the capital, where he owns two restaurants.
“Being an Aussie, I like the idea of being near a bit of water, so for me it’s all about what the coast has to offer.
“I adore heading to Craster on the Northumbrian coast, where there’s an amazing castle. Then you can walk along the beach, end up at the pub and eat the best crab sandcastle, washed down with a bottle of dog.
“That for me is the essence of local food. And I love Norfolk for the same reason.”
Torode also spends time in Cornwall, where he says chefs such as Nathan Outlaw are cooking up a coastal storm.
“You can go wherever you like and you’ll find these extraordinary places that are fantastic. And it’s lucky there are so many people wanting to be chefs, because growth in the restaurant business across the country is so great now.”
Currently taking part in London’s Restaurant Festival, during which cooks from all over the country will be demonstrating their skills, Torode says he loves the influences diverse food events are having on cooking culture.
“I was recently at the Liverpool Food Festival and it blew my mind. There were 20,000 people being really interested in what was going on. It was a great chance to do something we all love: eat, drink and talk!”
Here are three recipes from John Torode’s restaurant, Smiths of Smithfield.
Salt & pepper squid, roast chilli, garlic & coriander
(Serves 2)
500g (cleaned weight) medium-sized squid, scored
5 cloves garlic
A good handful of coriander
10 white peppercorns
20g sea salt
100g plain flour
1 litre vegetable oil
For the chilli dressing:
2 limes – juiced
3 dried chillies (roasted and deseeded)
50g palm sugar
125ml fish sauce
In a pestle and mortar, pound the roasted dried chilli and then add the palm sugar. Pound again adding the lime juice and fish sauce. Mix well and place to one side.
Preheat the oven to 160C/Gas mark 4. Preheat one litre of vegetable oil in a wok or a deep fryer if you have one. Pound the peppercorns and sea salt together in the pestle and mortar and then add flour, set to one side.
Peel half the garlic and pound with the remaining whole cloves. The cloves should split open and the flesh and skin should come together. Throw the pounded garlic into the preheated oil, lower the heat to a bubble and leave to cook for a good five minutes, stirring every so often. The garlic will float to the top and be crisp. With a strainer remove the garlic and drain well on kitchen roll.
Place the wok back over a high heat, when the oil starts to shimmer, it’s ready to cook in. Toss the squid in seasoned flour so that it’s coated well. Drop a quarter of the squid in the oil and fry in batches for about four to five minutes. The squid should curl and go crisp. Remove from the oil and place on a preheated tray in the oven until the remainder is cooked.
Place the garlic with the picked coriander in a large bowl, add the cooked squid, toss well and serve on individual plates with the dressing around the outside.
Slow roast belly of pork, green sauce & mash
(Serves 6)
2kg piece of belly pork, bone in, rind on
1tsp salt
4 cloves garlic
2tsp paprika
30ml vegetable oil
Juice of 1 lemon
For the mash:
1kg Maris Piper potatoes
250g butter
150ml double cream
Salt and pepper
For the green sauce:
Handful of flat parsley
Handful of basil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 boiled egg
Handful fresh white breadcrumbs
1tbsp white vinegar
1tbsp capers
50ml olive oil
Pinch of salt
The day before eating, score the skin of the pork with a very sharp knife in a criss-cross fashion at 1cm intervals. In a mixing bowl combine all the remaining ingredients. Rub the pork with the marinade and leave for 12-24 hours.
On the day of eating, preheat the oven to 150C/Gas mark 2. Lay the pork in a roasting tin and pour over the remaining marinade, adding half a cup of water to the bottom of the tray. Cover with foil and cook in the oven for three hours.
Remove the foil and increase the temperature of the oven to 180C/Gas mark 4. Cook for a further 40 minutes until the skin is crisp. Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 30 minutes.
While it’s resting, peel the potatoes, bring to the boil and simmer for 15-20 minutes.
Use this time to prepare the green sauce by placing the parsley, basil and garlic in a food processor and blending to a paste. Then add the remaining ingredients and pulse for 30 seconds so it’s not a paste, but a roughly chopped mix.
Drain and mash the potatoes. Melt the butter and cream together in a saucepan on a low heat, and fold into the potato, before seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.
Remove the bones from the pork (they should easily pull away from the flesh) and trim the edges to keep for a snack later. Cut the pork into six pieces and return to the oven for 10 minutes to heat through again.
Serve on the mash with the green sauce spooned over.
Little pots of chocolate
(Serves 4)
285ml single cream
200g best quality cooking chocolate (70% cocoa solids)
2 large egg yolks
3tbsp brandy
20g butter
In a thick-bottomed pan, heat the cream until nearly boiling. Remove and set aside for one minute before snapping in your chocolate.
Stir in until melted and smooth. Once melted, beat in your egg yolks and brandy and stir until smooth. Allow to cool slightly before stirring in the butter until the mixture is smooth. Pour into individual serving pots.
Sometimes if you add the butter when the chocolate isn’t cool enough, it will make the chocolate look as though it’s split. To rectify this, allow the mixture to cool a little longer before whisking in a little cold milk until you have a smooth consistency again.
- London Restaurant Festival takes place from October 3-17 (www.londonrestaurantfestival.com)
- Celebrity Masterchef is on BBC One on weekdays, with catch-up shows on Fridays and Saturdays
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