Eurasia Tandoori, Bridgnorth
Rating: **** There’s something to be said for being boring, as our food reviewer Andy Richardson found out at Eurasia Tandoori.
Rating: **** There’s something to be said for being boring, as our food reviewer Andy Richardson found out at Eurasia Tandoori.
It’s the boring, Groundhog Day details that make for great restaurants. Each day ought to be exactly as the last.
Chefs don’t need to show signs of flash-in-the-pan genius; they need to retain high standards day in and day out. Waiting staff need not raise their game and provide extra attention to star guests; they need to treat every customer as though they are the most important they’ll meet that evening.
In the quest for a successful restaurant, all members of the catering team have to observe the following, simple mantra: Consistency, consistency, consistency.
On Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, chefs ought to function like automatons, making only the slightest variations from the day before, so as to respond to changing conditions, ingredients that have more or less flavour, or to take into account seasonal fluctuations.
Waiters have no such need for subtle changes; their routine should never alter, standards should be crisp and sharp seven days each week. Every day should be exactly as the last.
Restaurants ought to be well-oiled machines, not subject to the whims and moods of their staff. The chef had a bad day? So what, the customers should never notice the difference. The maitre d got out of bed the wrong side? It shouldn’t matter, by the time he arrived at work and ironed himself out he ought to have a perma-smile fixed to his face.
The Eurasia Tandoori Restaurant, in Bridgnorth, has managed to be at its best for longer than most.
It was established in 1975 and has been serving the residents of one of Shropshire’s prettiest market towns – and loyal customers from much further afield – ever since.
Exotic flavours, exceptional specials and impressive staples have featured for 36 years.
The restaurant’s chef is a perennial finalist in the Shropshire Curry Chef of the Year Award and can consider himself unfortunate not to have yet lifted the title, although, no doubt, at some stage he will. In the competition’s inaugural event, he provided the stiffest competition to eventual winner, Cafe Saffron’s multi-award winning Abdul Hussen.
It was an extremely close call; the equivalent of Chelsea being pipped by Manchester United on penalties in the dying seconds of the Champions League Final.
I’ve visited Eurasia on numerous occasions down the years. It’s never failed to impress, always offering the same high standards of service and food, whatever the occasion.
On my latest visit, my friend and I enjoyed high quality food and came away pleased at having made an excellent choice.
We started with chicken chat and an onion bhajee, deliciously spicy dishes that were packed full of flavour.
The chicken was delicately spiced and served with a delicious roti while the onions in the crisp bhajee had caramelised to give them a wonderfully sweet flavour.
Having eaten at numerous Indian and Bangladeshi restaurants in Shropshire over many years, I can confidently say that Eurasia serves the county’s best pathia dish.
Pathia is a slightly hot, sweet and sour curry, which comprises a tomato base with spices and fresh green herbs.
It is a great way for a chef to demonstrate his innate understanding of ingredients and seasonings, and the team at Eurasia have it down to a fine art.
My chicken pathia did not disappoint. The ying and yang of sweet and sour were complimented by a subtle heat; it was a winning dish. The accompanying naan was light and fluffy, like a giant bread pillow, while my pilau rice had been cooked and presented with similar skill.
My friend, meanwhile, opted for two small vegetable side dishes, which were enjoyed as a main. Her saag paneer comprised spinach and cheese and elicited murmurs of approval while her aubergine-based brinjal bhaji brought meaningful smiles.
There are many things to admire about Eurasia. It’s experienced kitchen team have good skills and an innate understanding of balancing flavours.
It’s waiting stuff are bustling, efficient and exceptionally courteous. The restaurant runs with the smooth efficiency of a Japanese train, or a German automobile. No doubt Eurasia will continue to beguile and impress for many years to come.
ADDRESS
Eurasia Tandoori Restaurant, 21 West Castle Street, Bridgnorth WV16 4AB
Tel: 01746 767326