Rating **** A chef with a sense of humour gives this charming country pub a fun edge to fine dining, writes Andy Richardson.

In the rush to present perfect platters of elegantly designed food, chefs all too often forgot one essential component: fun.

Dining out should be a celebration, rather than an opportunity to pay homage to a particular chef or restaurant. Guests want to be entertained and leave restaurants with smiles on their faces, having enjoyed an evening out.

The New Inn, at Baschurch, offers diners the chance to relax amid leisurely surrounds while enjoying local cuisine.

And the all-important element of fun is never far away: there’s clearly a keen sense of humour in the kitchen. So, for instance, desserts like vanilla pannacotta come with raspberry jelly and mini doughnuts, a dish that creates the impression of being at some uber-sophisticated kids’ birthday party.

Similarly, New Inn deli boards come – as it says on the tin – served on wooden boards, so that diners can pick and choose their favourites, just like they were at home, having prepared a buffet for friends.

I last visited the venue about two years ago and it has improved almost beyond recognition in the intervening time.

My first visit was characterised by indifferent service and so-so food, earning it a three-star rating.

Clearly, owners Jenny and Marcus Bean have invested substantial time and effort raising standards in the kitchen and front of house since then. The experience is entirely different; they’ve made a quantum leap forward.

The pub-cum-restaurant is located in the charming town of Baschurch and the interior is spacious and airy. The photographs on the walls depict rural life in all its guises – and not just in Shropshire.

Inside The New Inn, Baschurch

Wild sea scenes sit happily next to pictures of prize-winning cows, completing the bucolic theme. The venue is split into two distinct areas, with a bar for locals to the left-hand side and a spacious dining room to the right. Happily, people come and go between both areas, guests are welcome on both sides of the divide.

The menu reflects the seasons and chef Marcus has an obviously-impressive sourcing policy.

His drinkers enjoy beers sourced from Stonehouse, Hobsons, Salopian Brewery and Woods, among others. His diners, meanwhile, enjoy the freshest and most local ingredients from Moor Farm Shop, Bryn Derw Farm, Corbetts, AC Edwards, Cheshire Farm Ice Cream, the Chester Cheese Shop and other esteemed local producers.

It makes for an appetising offer and on my latest visit my partner and I began our evening with Marcus’ New Inn Deli Board to Share.

Served on a wooden tray were a selection of homemade goodies, including home fried crisps, chorizo, olives, deliciously picquant slow roast tomatoes, a delicatedly seasoned slow-cooked ham hock served in a glass vial, home baked breads, a deliciously indulgent Scotch egg, three British cheeses and a small pot of chutney. The egg, tomatoes and crisps were outstanding and while the bread needed a little more salt, it was an impressive start.

The choices were impressive for the main courses and I umm’ed and aah’ed like a teenager in a clothes shop.

I fancied the wild mushroom risotto, with truffle oil and baby cress; but the Bryn Derw chicken breast with herb butter and spiced bean cassoulet sounded too good to miss. I also had a penchant for the Barbary duck breast with a confit duck pie and sweet potato chips and so, in the end, I opted for none of those, taking a Cornish turbot with chorizo cream from the specials’ board.

My partner was far more decisive and went for the wild garlic, sweet potato and Bournes Cheshire cheese tartlet with a baby leaf salad and red cabbage remoulade. While the starter had been a high-kicking, crowd-pleasing delight of a dish, the mains were not quite so satisfactory. The turbot had been overcooked – sacrilege for such an impressive dish – while the cheese tart was underseasoned.

No matter. It was on to desserts and my choice of warm rhubarb and orange tart with a crumble top and ice cream did not disappoint. The crumble was sweet and ever-so-slightly crunchy while the fruit was a delicious mix of sweet and acid flavours.

My partners lemoncello crème brulee with a shot of fresh lemonade and shortbread was another winner.

That just left the small matter of mini doughnuts. Although neither of us had ordered the vanilla pannacotta, the front of house staff passed on my mildly absurd request for a mini bag to take home. The cinnamon and sugar-coated delights didn’t last long. They were a treat.

The level of service at The New Inn had increased beyond recognition. The last time I visited it was desultory, this time, however, it was polished and professional.

The two waitresses were engaging throughout the evening, making attentive requests as to whether our food was up to scratch and whether we’d like anything else.

Although The New Inn has come on in leaps and bounds during the past two years, the most exciting thing is that there’s clearly still potential for it to improve further.

The service is pretty much there, although there were areas for even greater refinement in the kitchen. Once they’re made, the pub will be able to rank itself among the best eateries in the county.

ADDRESS
The New Inn,  Baschurch SY4 2EF
Telephone: 01939 260335
Web: www.thenewinnbaschurch.co.uk