Rating **** Sharon Walters revisits a former county hotspot which been given a star makeover.

Thirty years ago The Lion Hotel in Shrewsbury’s Wyle Cop was the best hotel in the town and further afield in the county.

It was a traditional former coaching inn that served good, wholesome food had blazing fires in the bars and offered comfortable accommodation – and it was the place to hold your wedding reception.

Over the years standards dropped and it became rather sad, tired and served rather basic hotel food.

Then in 2006 this historic landmark building was bought by local man Howard Astbury who has overseen a major transformation. It started with bringing the 59 bedrooms completely up to date and refurbishment of the bar and lounge areas along with the beautiful function room.

Then last year he tackled the restaurant and brought in some very big guns to help with this major project.

First to get a call was Claire Bosi of Hibiscus, Mayfair. Michelin-starred Hibiscus was previously in Ludlow and relocated to the capital in 2007. Claire is renowned for her restaurant skills and she advised on the rebranding and subsequent launch of the restaurant as The Hayward including the menu design and refurbishment.

From being a run-down room with that awful smell of stale cooking hanging in the air it is now a stylish and elegant restaurant with discreet lighting and crisp white tablecloths and napkins.

Claire also contacted her colleague Aiden Byrne of the Church Green, Lymm and previously of The Dorchester, London where at the age of just 22 he received his first Michelin Star before returning to his home county of Cheshire.

As consultant chef he sought out Ian Matfin who was appointed Head Chef at The Hayward. Ian spent his formative years with Gordon Ramsay at the notorious Aubergine Restaurant and Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons. The last 11 years have been spent with Michael Caines at Gidleigh Park in Chagford then subsequently at his hotel, Abode Manchester.

Inside The Lion Hotel, Shrewsbury

Ian, a well known face from The Great British Menu, (where he met Aiden), has received many national and regional awards for his food. His style is quintessentially British with a few subtle twists. Working in tune with both the seasons and a wealth of local suppliers, Ian has transformed the dining experience at the hotel.

And so to the ‘experience’.

We dined early evening on a week night and there was only one other table occupied so it was a little quiet and lacking in atmosphere – a tad disappointing.

Service was immaculate and we were quietly ushered to a window table and drinks orders were taken as we looked over the menu. It is a set menu of three courses for £37.50 with a good choice for each.

Good quality bread was brought to us and an amuse bouche – quite a triumph. Described as a Spanish soup with tomatoes, mushrooms and wasabi it had a deep and intense earthy flavour. A good portent.

Then came some disappointing news from our waiter, sorry there are no scallops tonight. So that meant one starter had to be re-chosen and one main course would come without these tempting little delights. Ah, well.

Then our choice of wine was not available but I quickly spotted another costing half as much – the wine list has been devised by local merchants Tanners and I knew the Chilean Los Vilos would be a fine pairing with our food.

I had Slow Poached Salmon, Cucumber, Honey and Soy, Wasabi Greek Yogurt Vinaigrette. A picture on a plate the salmon was delicate and finely enhanced by the unusual combination of soy and wasabi.

Neil had Light Chicken Mousse with Herb Puree, Spinach, Morel and White Wine Sauce – not as pretty but possibly the best starter.

Next I had Roast Sirloin of Beef, Pomme Purée, Asparagus, Roast Shallots and Red Wine Sauce. Cooked exactly as I requested, medium, it was mouth wateringly tender. I adore asparagus and they were perfectly cooked – still crisp and with juicy heads. The shallots were outstanding and I could easily have eaten a few more. My one criticism was the pomme purée which was a little too garlicky for me – and believe me I do like garlic.

Neil had ordered the Wild Turbot and Scallops with Pea Purée, Smoked Bacon and Shallot Velouté. He had come to terms with the lack of scallops but when the dish arrived there were indeed two on top of his fish. We both tasted to confirm they were the said shellfish and called the waiter over. He disappeared into the kitchen and told us they had arrived while the order was being cooked – bit of confusion there and I can’t imagine there was a delivery at 7.30pm.

Puddings were both triumphs, simply magnificent – Hot Raspberry Soufflé, Dark Chocolate Ice Cream and Chocolate Orange Mousse, Orange Confit Sorbet. Faultless.

Coffee and petit fours finished off a meal I never expected to experience in the old Lion.

ADDRESS
The Lion Hotel, Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury SY1 1UY
Tel: 01743 353107
Web: www.thelionhotelshrewsbury.com

MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Roast Hand Dived Scottish Scallops; Tomato, Aubergine, Tapenade Vinaigrette; Terrine of Fois Gras, Green Bean Salad, Madeira Jelly

MAINS
Breast of Wood Pigeon, Herb Purée, Potato; Gnocchi, Truffled Egg Yolk, Madeira Sauce; Best End of Lamb, Tian of Spinach; Millefeuille of Aubergine, Roas Garlic and a Tapenade Jus; Fricassée of Lobster with Baby Vegetables
and Herbs

DESSERTS
Coconut Pannacotta, Caramelised Pineapple, Coconut Sorbet, Strawberry Parfait, Marinated Strawberries, Clotted Cream Ice Cream

SERVICE
Excellent

ATMOSPHERE
A little quiet

DISABLED FACILITIES
No disabled facilities