Star rating: **** Andy Richardson finds a restaurant that easily fits in to Shropshire’s top ten.

As the countdown to the Olympics gathers pace, Much Wenlock is likely to increasingly find itself the centre of attention. Star guests, daytrippers and tourists will descend on the town to find out more about its claims to have been the forerunner to the modern Olympic Games.

The Raven, Much Wenlock

Local businesses will benefit from the influx of tourist trade, none more so than The Raven, a delightful hotel and restaurant in the town centre.

If first impressions are the ones that count most, The Raven will knock the socks off visitors. It’s a wonderfully elegant venue, combining period charm with modernity and a degree of sophistication with genuine warmth. Stepping through its doors is like hopping from one world to another.

Outside there’s the hustle and bustle of one of the county’s prettiest market towns, inside there’s refinement and peace.

The Raven has, of course, seen it all before. It was a landmark in the town when Dr William Penny Brookes conceived his own version of the Olympic Games, first held in 1859.

The tireless social reformer, best known for his fondness for Big Society-style events, including physical education and community involvement, visited The Raven down the years.

Not that the venue is in any way dated. Its thoroughly modern conservatory is decked with calming, neutral tones. In terms of style and design, it’s the gastronomic equivalent of John Lewis, an oasis of taste and understated charm.

Guests find it difficult not to be seduced by its timeless quality and unhurried atmosphere. There’s a wonderful rabbit-out-of-the-hat trick that The Raven manages to pull off.

While high-end restaurants in other parts of the county maintain a high profile, featuring in this guidebook and that, The Raven makes little fuss. It goes about its business without attracting the headlines, being entirely happy to trade on its reputation as being a secret treasure.

My friend and I last visited the venue three years ago and were thrilled by its high standards. Creative food, sleek service and an aesthetically-pleasing dining room were among its keynotes. So, when we made a long-overdue return, we were pleased that it matched our high expectations.

One thing The Raven doesn’t do is pander to fashion – or critics. Its canapés, for instance, are easily recognisable – miniature Welsh rarebits and seasoned salmon on pastry, with olives. The tried-and-tested theme continues on the menu, which, wonderfully, observes the less-is-more rule of good gastronomy.

There are no more than four or five choices for starter, main and dessert. The focus is on quality, not quantity. My friend started with the soup of the day, a deliciously light tomato and red pepper creation that proved a delightful beginning. I opted for vegetable ravioli, which comprised a silky, freshly-made pasta, cooked so that it was still al dente, filled with roasted vegetables and cheese.

My friend opted for the slow-cooked Morville beef with rosemary mash and a mushroom marmalade. It was truly exceptional. The beef was the star of the evening, though an accompanying red wine jus also sounded a high note, as did the savoury mash.

My chicken breast on a bed of linguine was also good, although a little too much cream had been used in the sauce, making it needlessly rich.

We finished with a selection of homemade ice creams in a brandy basket and a glazed lemon tart, with ice cream. The ice creams were very good and the tart filling a real treat, though the pastry could have been more expertly made.

Throughout the evening, the service was exceptional. A mature maitre ’d kept abreast of all proceedings while a young and willing waiter earned top marks, being attentive and polished throughout.

In some ways, The Raven can consider itself unlucky that its reviewer was a stickler for detail: there are others from this parish who would have rushed to give it five out of five and one might even have given it six.

Though The Raven doesn’t aspire to compete with the county’s Michelin restaurants, it’s firmly established in the following category and comfortably in Shropshire’s top ten restaurants. Our bill, at £74, was absurdly good value for food and service of that standard.

As we head ever closer to the 2012 Olympics, the venue will doubtless find itself overrun with visitors and guests. So, a word to the wise: get in while you can.

ADDRESS
The Raven Hotel & Restaurant, Barrow Street,  Much Wenlock TF13 6 EN
Tel 01952 727251
Web: www.ravenhotel.com

MENU SAMPLE
Two courses £28; Three courses £33; Coffee and petit fours £3.25

STARTERS
Pan-fried scallops with pea and mint puree; Terrine of local Shropshire pheasant and venison

MAIN COURSES
Marinated pork chop with braised red cabbage; Braised goose breast with herbed mash and chestnut dumplings

DESSERTS
Toffee creme brulee with mango and passion fruit ice cream; Rich chocolate tart

ATMOSPHERE
Civilised, decorous, charming

SERVICE
Top notch. A good job from a polished team

DISABLED FACILITIES
Well equipped and staff provide assistance