Reviewer’s rating **** Rex M Key discovers a bit of a change at The George – last visited in the Swinging Sixties.

I called in at The George in Bridgnorth last month partly to escape the biting cold but mainly to see how much it has changed since I last visited – 43 years ago.

And changed it has, out of all recognition. The transformation from a small town pub to a spacious, welcoming and smart dining establishment is stunning.

Yet the owners have managed to retain the informality and down-to-earth atmosphere (partly due to its Real Ale credentials) that has been a hallmark of the George (or the Hollyhead as it was known for several years). There is also the well-known legend of the ghost of the little girl said to make an appearance every now and then.

Any visitors, whether booked or unexpected (or even unexplained) will these days be able to enjoy high quality food and service. Sue Tristram has managed the pub since its comprehensive renovation a few months ago, thanks to a considerable investment by the local Knott family. By the way, Sue’s husband Dave is the well-known Highley playwright.

Credit must also go to the chef, Andy Eaton, as the meals served to me and my wife were excellent, beautifully prepared and presented, and the waitress was professional and friendly. We could hardly fault anything, and that includes the price. We paid just over £40 for two starters, two mains, two coffees and two glasses of red wine. I have paid nearly double that in high-end city restaurants for food and service which was not any better than we received at The George, and some were not so good.

The contrast from the bitter cold January night outside to the warm, welcoming and well-lit interior could not have been more stark. I had rung ahead to see if I needed to book (it was a Thursday) but was assured they would be able to fit us in. The bar was busy but not crowded and we were soon greeted, supplied with drinks and given the menu.

We were offered the choice of eating in the bar with its convivial buzz and in front of the roaring open log fire or round the corner in the off-set restaurant area and decided on the less lively location.

The waitress immediately presented us with the complimentary crusty, poppy-seeded bread rolls (nice and hot) with olive oil and balsamic vinegar dips. They were much appreciated.

Inside The George, Bridgnorth

The plush, printed menu had eight starters including poached pear, blue cheese and caramelised walnut salad (£4.95), soup with crusty bread (£4.25) and olives (£2.75). My choice was the breaded tiger king prawns with a chilli dip (£5.50). The five beautiful prawns came with a fresh, wild rocket salad and sweet dip and although not the cheapest starter I thought it justified the price tag and enjoyed every morsel.

Libby was similarly impressed with her smoked salmon, horseradish cream, lemon and rocket (£5.25). The salmon was excellently flavoured and the horseradish cream was not overpowering.

Perhaps the biting cold outside made me appreciate the comfort and cordiality inside even more but the atmosphere did soothe the soul; and the main event was still to come.

My choice was the pork tenderloin with black pudding mash and a red wine sauce (£11.95). It was without doubt the tastiest, tenderest pork loin I can remember, superbly flavoured and delicately moist. The thick slices sat atop the island tower of excellent black pudding mash with a moat of dark, thick wine sauce around the outside. Thoroughly recommended.

Libby had chosen one of the options from the (less pricey) specials board. Her beef bourguignon with Savoy cabbage and creamy mash (£6.95) was a large portion served in a large dish. It was quality beef, with mushrooms and a rich sauce. She described it as ideal comfort food for a cold, winter’s evening.

Other choices on the special board included pork and mushroom stroganoff with rice, and beer-battered cod.

We shared a dish of carrots, cauliflower, shredded cabbage and thin beans, all cooked to perfection.

Having cleared our dishes (and impressed the waitress) we declined the desserts so as not to break my new year’s resolution but passing up the bread and butter pudding, or apple crumble, or Bailey’s white chocolate cheesecake was not easy.

Our coffees came with biscuits, and the bill came with chocolate mints. Everything was perfect.

If you wish to sample breakfast at The George they offer four-star accommodation as well as a private function room for birthdays and such like.

I will certainly not be leaving it another 43 years before I call in again and I might perhaps get a chance to see the child-like apparition.

ADDRESS
The George, Hollybush  Road, Bridgnorth WV16 4AX
Tel: 01746 768868
Website: www.thegeorgebridgnorth.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Pan-fried pigeon, shallot, beetroot and wild rocket salad (£5.95); Parma ham, olive and feta cheese platter (£4.95)

MAINS
8oz sirloin steak (£14.95), Grilled marinated chicken breast with ratatouille, wilted spinach and balsamic (£10.95)

DESSERTS
Eton mess, warm Belgian waffle (both £4.25); Cheese and biscuits (£5.95)

SERVICE
Excellent

ATMOSPHERE
Light and lively

DISABLED FACILITIES
Wheelchair friendly and toilets for the disabled