Sadaf, Albrighton

Monday 12th April 2010, 10:58AM BST.

Sadaf, Albrighton

SADAF1Reviewer’s rating **** This food review begins with a confession!  I don’t know what I am talking about. Eating at a Persian restaurant is something I have not done before.

Therefore I do not feel qualified to offer a critique, saying if the food was properly prepared, cooked and presented.

But I do feel qualified to say if the meal was tasty, used fresh ingredients and was enjoyable. The Sadaf Restaurant at Albrighton scored a resounding yes on those scores. Additionally it proved to be excellent value for money.

Two of us had starters, main courses, a side order, a dessert, two coffees and a bottle of wine for £46. I can’t remember the last time I ate such an economical three course meal at a restaurant .

The furnishings were fine, the front-of-house experience satisfactory and the waiting of professional and attentive. My one (feeble) negative observation was that the flower on the table was plastic.

Far more important was the food. It would appear Persian cooking does not go overboard on the spice, but it could be said to make a meal out of herbs and seasonings. Delicate flavours were well balanced with none overpowering the others.

Blunderbuss eating with eye-watering vidaloo blasting its way through to the palate after several jugs of lager is not for me (well, not anymore) so I was able to sample, savour and enjoy.

The restaurant has only been open a couple of months and now occupies the premises formerly runs as Frederiques Restaurant.

The building has undergone a revamp with only a few areas of bare, new plasterwork still to receive its finishing coat of paint.

Its reputation has already spread, certainly in the certain quarters as it happened the entire clientelle seated there for most of the evening had direct connection with the local library – which speaks volumes.

I had assumed that in my ignorance of Persian cuisine it would be something of a blind tasting experience as I couldn’t say if Chello Ghaimeh Badinjan would be swallowed whole, spread on toast or treated with Germoline. I need not have worried. Sadaf’s menu gives clear, explicit descriptions of the ingredients and cooking methods. And the staff tactfully hover close by waiting to offer advice.

Sadaf Restaurant, 16 High Street, Albrighton, WV7 3JT

Inside Sadaf Restaurant, 16 High Street, Albrighton, WV7 3JT

I did however recognise the falafel starter (£3) with Sadaf’s offering fried balls of chick peas served with tahini sauce (sesame seed paste). To say they were balls was a bit of a misnomer. The delicately flavoured mix had been pressed into smooth discs then deep fried until  they gained a crunchy crispness. The dipping tahini was smooth and rich and the combination very pleasing.

Libby’s panir sabzi was easy to pronounce and even easier to eat. A sabzi is a  salad or appetizer and this one was a delightful fusion of fresh herbs which were topped with feta cheese and crushed walnuts. (£3.95).  We shared some Persian flat bread (£1), very much like pitta bread with, of course, subtle flavourings. I then ventured all of £8 on my main course – chicken zereshk polo.

It proved to be £8 very well spent. It was a tender chicken breast described as being “stewed in its own juices”, which I found a bit puzzling, with onion, slight seasoning and saffron steamed rice and barberries (which are small currants much favoured in the Middle East).  These berries were spread on top just before serving rather than being mixed in with the rice and therefore losing their pleasing dark colouring. It came with a refreshing side salad.

Libby went for a seemingly unadventurous seafood grill, the tiger prawn kebab (£11.95).

I assumed this would be served on a skewer but although it had been deep fried then char grilled that way, it was served spread on a bed of Persian saffron steamed rice with a salad and enhanced with a exquisite mint vinaigrette dressing.

The deep flavoured prawns were a joy, I only wish I had been allowed to sample more than one.

It was only when I got to the desserts that we were disappointed. I’d fancied the celebrated baklava with pastry filled with walnuts, pistachios and honey and Libby wanted to try the Persian ice-cream (described as having cream clots) but they’d sold out of both. Not to be outdone I asked for the apple pie and custard (not very Persian, I know). Although it tasted excellent the pie was cold and the custard was hot – not a combination my mother would have allowed to pass.

The thread of carefully balanced ingredients with delicate, subtle flavours then contrasted with the full-bloodied, high octane Lebonese coffees. I’d expected a strong brew but these were caffeine blasts in a league of their own.

ADDRESS
Sadaf Restaurant, 16 High Street, Albrighton, WV7 3JT
Telephone 01902 375050

Menu Sample
Starters
Khiyarshoor and zaytoon (Persian pickled gherkins and olives) £2.50; hoummos (blend of chick peas, tahini, garlic and lemon juice) £2.95.

Main:
Chello koresht ghorme sabzi (herbs simmered with diced lamb, lime, beans and saffron rice) £8.50; sea bass friend then char grilled with saffron rice (£11).

Sides:
Torsi makhloot (mixed pickled veg) £2.50

Dessert:
Baklava (£2.95); Persian ice-cream ((£3.50)

Atmosphere:
Pleasant and unhurried

Service:
Professional and attentive



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