Reviewer’s rating **** Cathy Stanworth is very impressed by a new-look pub

Having not been inside The Gate Inn at Bratton for years, I remembered it as being a rather boring, traditional, tired little pub with an atmosphere to match.

I had heard it had been taken over by a couple of locals, but it wasn’t until my partner Simon and I walked through the door last Friday night that I was to discover exactly what they’d done to it – and what a nice surprise!

From the outside it looked pretty much the same, but it was a different story inside. It looked like a completely different place. Warm and welcoming, its former warren of little rooms had been replaced with an open plan layout warmed by a lit woodburner in an exposed inglenook fireplace.

Although there were other diners and drinkers already there, there were plenty of tables free on this very cold night. Looking around I felt you’d be welcome if you just wanted to pop in for a drink or settle down with your family to a four course meal.

Having rung up earlier I had been told that it wasn’t necessary to book a table as they were quiet that evening.

At the bar we ordered a large glass of red wine (£4.10) and a pint of lager (£2.80). After inquiring about a table for two we were asked to take a seat near the fireplace while a waitress was called to see to us. She soon arrived to show us to our table. Here Simon and myself positioned ourselves as close as possible to a reclaimed-style radiator that was thankfully blasting out a decent amount of heat.

Doing a bit of research on The Gate later on, I learned that after the pub closed in June 2008 it was bought by Yvonne Young and Nigel Wainwright. They were to reopen The Gate at Bratton following a £100,000 refurbishment.

Their newly-launched business also created 15 new jobs. Its website www.thegateatbratton.co.uk told how Yvonne and Nigel had wanted to maintain as many original features as possible at the venue, as well as introduce a modern feel to the interior.

Sipping my glass of Shiraz (which was good), I scanned the menu. It had a choice of six starters, ten mains, seven puddings, a number of side orders, and children’s choices; all beautifully described.

Our young waitress was very polite and attentive and didn’t mind giving us a bit of extra time to make up our minds about what we wanted.

Simon ordered mushroom en-croute with crispy bacon, a poached duck egg and truffle oil (£5.50), followed by Corbett’s extra mature rib eye steak with field mushrooms, beef tomato and proper chips (£14.50). I finally decided on seared scallops with chorizo, tomato and chilli salsa (£5.95) followed by a char grilled 10oz rump steak with butter beans, creamy leeks and Wrekin Blue cheese and proper chips (£13.95).

I was delighted with the look of both our starters. They were colourful, hot and not a bad portion at all. My scallops appeared to have just touched the pan on both sides. They were plump and had a delicate flavour, which was perfectly complemented by a punch-packing spicy tomato and chilli salsa and a few leaves. Great.

Simon’s starter was also impressive. It had a light pastry base, big fat mushrooms, bits of well cooked bacon, and a delicately poached duck egg balanced on top. Simon was very pleased with this dish and, just like mine, it soon disappeared.

There was a short delay before our main course arrived, but as everything is cooked from fresh, we knew to expect this.

Simon’s dish was the first to arrive. A good piece of meat, it looked very appetising. It came with a huge beef tomato and more mushrooms and those “proper” chips. Everything got the thumbs up. My steak was also absolutely delicious.

Another quality piece of meat, it was very tender, nice and pink in the middle (cooked medium), while slightly charred on the outside. My chips were fat and golden and very tasty, but what I really raved over was the butter beans and creamy leeks. The beans were big, fat and tender, blending beautifully with the creamy leaks. This combination gave my steak the five star treatment. Another thoroughly enjoyable dish.

Simon couldn’t resist the treacle and Shropshire honey tart with maple and walnut ice cream (£4.95).

So I had to join him, with the excellent pink grapefruit sorbet with shortbread biscuits (£3).

We agreed that they’d done a fantastic job with The Gate, in both terms of the interior design and the food. Why not go and see for yourself?

ADDRESS
The Gate, Bratton, near Wellington, TF5 0BX

Tel: 01952 244207

MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Leek and potato soup with crusty bread (£4.10); platter of mixed olives, olive oil & balsamic dip & crusty bread (£4.95)

Main courses
Pan roasted Shropshire chicken breast with garlic & fennel mash and tarragon jus (£10.95); fillet of seabass on a bed of garlic mash with roasted fennel, cherry tomatoes and surf clams (£12.95)

Desserts
Hot apple pie and custard (£4.50); Cheshire Farm Ice cream (chocolate, maple & walnut or amaretto) (£3)

ATMOSPHERE
Quietly friendly, relaxed and welcoming

SERVICE
Attentive, polite, courteous and efficient

DISABLED FACILITIES
There is access for wheelchairs.