Rating **** Sue Austin and friends spend a pleasant evening watching a real talent at work, Masterchef contestant Chris Conde.

When chef Chris Conde appeared on our screens in Masterchef he was an instant hit, with the judges and the viewers.

The personable young head chef from The Inn at Grinshill wowed with his knowledge, his skills and his flair, Michel Roux junior describing his Sole Veronique one of the best he had tasted. But he fell in the quarter finals with a disastrous meal for critics.

We decided to check out the Inn at Grinshill and try Chris’s food for ourselves. I was impressed from my initial phone call to book a table. A welcoming lady offered us the choice of tables in the bar for a more informal meal or in the restaurant and then asked if the evening was to celebrate something special.

And after travelling down lanes to Grinshill, north of Shrewsbury, there was an equally warm welcome from the twinkling lights on the tree in the car park and the staff inside.

Chris Conde at work in the kitchen

I hadn’t recognised the name but did recognise the building and the name of the bar, the Elephant and Castle. Of course, I had enjoyed a family meal there, goodness more than 30 years ago. It was good then, even more so now.

The a la carte menu offers the choice of two courses for £27.50 or three courses for £32.50. We chose and it didn’t seem long before we were shown to our table in a sophisticated, modern restaurant, complete with a pianist playing gentle music.

We were offered an ‘amuse bouche’ a taster of curried parsnip soup, deliciously creamy. All four of us had originally opted for a starter of ravioli with pheasant and prune but with only three left, I went for cured salmon with wasabi and what a stunning dish. The phone camera just had to come out for the piece of art on a plate complete with a flower garnish.

The cured salmon was a delight – it has to be the perfect way to serve salmon and I savoured every mouthful of both taste and texture. The wasabi wasnt quite hot enough for me, but that’s my personal taste.

My fellow diners’ ravioli was wonderfully rich, the prunes a perfect compliment. Despite the very fine dining, there was a relaxed atmosphere in the restaurant and a second bottle of house red, Tempranillo, was soon ordered. It went perfectly with our main courses.

And that is where I chose wrongly. I should have gone with my first choice, the hake with razor clams, squid ink, chorizo and red pepper and samphire. But having watched Chris cook lamb on Masterchef I joined friend Henry in choosing the braised shoulder and loin of lamb.

Yes the meat was perfect, the shoulder melting in the mouth, the loin a perfect pink. But the accompanying goats cheese ravioli tasty as it was, was for me, too dry and the sauce served with it too little.

However, Melvyn said his beef, was perfect, high praise indeed. And it was served with the tastiest carrots I have ever sampled, tiny onions that he said were ‘amazing’ and escargots that, having traded one, made me wish again that I had gone for the fish dish.

Deb had no problems with her risotto – and she wasnt trading with anyone!

I certainly chose well with the dessert, but first we all enjoyed a complimentary taste of delicious sticky toffee pudding. Then, my chocolate dessert. As with the cured salmon the taste and the texture of the melting chocolate pudding was perfect, moist but not gooey in the middle and a crisp but not overcooked on the outside. It was served with a coffee foam and tasty strawberries and raspberries.

Inside The Inn at Grinshill

Melvyn and Henry chose Chris’s take on Eton ‘Mess’ and this again showed just how subjective food is. To Henry and myself it wasn’t an Eton Mess but – as my son christened it when I showed him the photo – Eton Organised. But Melvyn loved the deconstructed dessert which included strawberry parfait, macaroon, chantilly cream, brandy snap biscuits, fruits and even a sprinkling of popping candy.  Desserts aren’t Mel favourite course but this one certainly hit the spot with him.

The evening wasn’t over, for the meal ended with Earl Grey for Deb, espresso for Henry and for me a really good cafetiere of coffee, all served with amazing home made chocolates.

Chris’s menu is certainly inventive and there is even a hint of fun. His latest menu describes his cheesecake as having a ‘buttery’ biscuit base which this You Tuber would have chosen just for that description alone.

The kitchen at The Inn at Grinshill is an open one, so diners can see for themselves their own television chef who says he is enjoying passing on his knowledge to his colleagues. What you won’t do is hear the shouting that some other TV chefs are famed for. Chris says he prefers encouragement than unnecessary loud criticism.

It was a great evening. Should I have asked for more sauce with my lamb? I’ll just never know.

ADDRESS
The Inn at Grinshill, The High Street, Grinshill, near Shrewsbury SY4 3BL
Tel: 01939 220410
Web: www.theinnatgrinshill.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Soup of the Moment, Rustic Bread £4.95
Ham Hock Terrine, Crispy Ear Salad £6.50
Caprese Salad, Torn Basil, Olive Oil £6.25

MAIN DISHES
Pan Fried Salmon, Creamed Potato, Mussel & Saffron Broth £15.95
Braised Lamb Shoulder, Fondant Potato, Peas, Chantenay Carrots £16.25
Summer Risotto, Broad Beans, Peas, Asparagus £12.95
8oz Sirloin Steak, Flat Mushroom, Grilled Tomato, Rustic Chips £19.25

SIDES – £3 each

DESSERTS
Pimms Jelly, Cucumber Granita, Strawberry Sorbet £6.25
Coconut Pannacotta, Caramelised Banana, Chocolate, Pecans £6.95
Marzipan Sponge, Red Wine Jelly, Raspberry Liquor Ganache £6.95

ATMOSPHERE
Genteel yet still informal

SERVICE
Very welcoming