Rating **** Andy Richardson thinks TV’s Restaurant Inspector Fernando Peire would be thrilled by the sensitive revamp the former Bambers has undergone.

Restaurateurs who sign up for reality TV shows are doing a dance with the devil. Take the case of Matt Poulton, a talented cook from Bridgnorth, who foolishly agreed to appear on TV’s Restaurant Inspector.

Poulton was a lugubrious chef, with a penchant for great local produce. However, and here’s the rub, he had a poor eye for interior design and was too easily drawn into a scrap.

So, when Restaurant Inspector Fernando Peire told him his eaterie, Bambers, looked like a brothel, there were fireworks.

Peire tried to impress upon him the importance of creating an environment conducive to relaxation, that would sooth his customers – but Poulton was having none of it. The two men clashed – which made for great TV but eventually led to the demise of Bambers.

And now, at the same site, the restaurateur Simon Szymanski, has opened Nomis. It looks nothing like Bambers. If Peire were to revisit, he’d be thrilled by the sensitive revamp that Szymanski has overseen.

Gone are the garish red colours, shabby chic fittings and mish mash of bric-a-brac. The tatty black lace curtains have been thrown in the bin.

Instead, the restaurant has neutral tones of cream, chocolate and biscuit. There are new tables and chairs, shiny cutlery, fine glassware and plenty of space.

The entrance has a small bar, fitted next to a delightful wood burning stove. From the moment you enter, Nomis says: “Hello, you’re welcome, now pull up a chair and we’ll cook you something nice. Relax, we’re here to make you happy.”

Szymanski comes with a fine pedigree. He was the number two to Brummie star Glynn Purnell for 12 years, overseeing service at two Michelin-starred restaurants.

He was with Purnell at Jessica’s – the Edgbaston eaterie that helped put Birmingham on the map as a centre of culinary excellence – before moving with his boss to Purnell’s, which is now ranked among the UK’s best.

Inside Nomis Restaurant, Bridgnorth

He led service when Purnell was dashing off to the BBC, to film several series of Great British Menu. He’s been there, seen it done it. And now it’s time to go solo.

So Szymanski has launched Nomis – that’s Simon, spelled backwards: geddit? – in St Mary’s Street. And he’s making all the right noises.

As well as doing away with the unpalatable interior that led to Bambers’ doom, he’s also ripped up the menu and come up with a selection of choices that will please fans of British food. He favours local ingredients, sourcing them from farms in Worfield, Claverely and other parts of the Bridgnorth hinterland.

“It’s some a brilliant part of the world for food,” he says, his enthusiasm barely contained.

“I found a woman who makes goat’s cheese, and she’s absolutely brilliant. I created a dish and put it on the menu. I told Glynn about the cheese and he tried some – now he’s asking her to supply him as well.”

Szymanski’s menu is a treat. It features five starters, five mains and five desserts: his less is more approach enables him to offer the freshest and most seasonal ingredients to his diners.

I visited with a friend who runs the Midlands’ leading food marketing company – if Poulton had it tough when Peire arrived, Szymanski had a double helping of probably-unwelcome mystery guest blues.

We sat down to pre-dinner drinks in comfortable chairs at the front of the venue, while the confident and eminently capable maitre d brought us menus. It took a while to decide and we duelled over who should get what.

My friend won the battle of the starters, opting for a delicious-sounding plate of pan-fried Cornish squid with black pudding and chorizo gnocchi. I went for the local wild mushrooms with pickled radishes and textures of potatoes.

Both were delicious. The fresh coastal flavours of squid and earthy savouriness of their accompaniments were well-balanced and well-matched. My mushrooms, meanwhile, were an absolute treat. They’d been picked from fields near Claverley, apparently, before skilfully being partnered with a selection of potato nuggets, including the crispiest, fluffiest sautéed potatoes imaginable.

My friend opted for a deep fried Cornish hake with mushy peas and triple cooked chips as his main course. It came with small cubes of yellow-ish jelly, which we later identified as being jellied vinegar.

It added a touch of humour to the dish, although my guess is that not all diners would be impressed with Szymanski’s flourish of gastronomic skill – most would probably enjoy it poured or sprayed across their chips.

I went for the guinea fowl with chestnuts and root vegetables: a delicious dish that showcased the flavours of the season. The guinea fowl was cooked with impeccable skill – the flesh was just beyond translucent and it was wonderfully moist.

The chestnuts were a treat and the carrots showed how good a cook Szymanski obviously is. They’d been cooked to a tender perfect and were wonderfully sweet – it seemed odd such a humble ingredient should be given the chance to shine, but the head chef managed that trick.

And so to desserts. My friend opted for the poached pear in a cheesecake foam that was served in a round glass. It was a high-end dessert at a bargain basement price and he made light work of it. I went for the hazelnut tart with a vanilla gel and thyme custard. It was a winner, carefully constructed and bringing together harmonious flavours.

During our dinner, my friend enjoyed two glasses of exceptional English wine and a glass of dessert wine, while we also polished off a bottle of local sparkling water. Improbably, the bill came to £60 – £20 less than you’d expect to pay at other restaurants of a similar calibre.

Szymanski is a hard-working, creative, switched-on type who adds to the culinary offering available in Shropshire. Great cooking, local ingredients, seasonal dishes and brilliant combinations – and all at absurdly low prices. Bambers RIP, Nomis is here to stay.

ADDRESS
Nomis Restaurant: 65 St Mary’s Street, Bridgnorth WV16 4DR
Tel: 01746 767364
Web: www.nomisfood.com