Rating **** Neil Thomas enjoys a family meal down the local – and he didn’t have to go far.

The traditional British pub has faced a well-documented struggle for survival for some years now. Across the country, hostelries that were once the heartbeats of their communities stand boarded up and forlorn or converted to ‘cottages of character’.

Reasons vary, from changing customer fashions to the corporate greed and cynicism of landlords, but the end result is the same – the loss of the ‘local’, a place of conviviality where neighbours socialise, friendships are forged in the pool team and villages raise money for good causes with charity quiz nights.

Occasionally, though, there is a welcome reversal of this depressing trend and a once much loved ‘local’ that had closed reopens. That is the case with The King’s Head at Guilsfield, a lively village near Welshpool.

I must declare an interest here, for this is my ‘local’ along with the village’s other pub, The Oak.

After a period of closure with the For Sale board up, The King’s Head opened again getting on for a year ago and it is great to see that it is clearly thriving. The pub enhances the village considerably with its attractive frontage and atmospheric interior which boasts a wealth of period features. It has an easy-on-the-eye cosiness and charm and a friendly welcome which makes it almost the epitome of a traditional village pub.

It was bought – and possibly saved – by a respected local couple of longstanding, who can be relied upon to have the best interests of the village at heart. Meanwhile their young tenants, Richard and Sara Griffiths, are building on this, serving excellent home-cooked food along with any self-respecting village hostelry’s stock-in-trade, decent real ale.

I have visited a couple of times with my family recently and we have enjoyed lovely meals with first class, friendly service in a convivial atmosphere. Hospitality is clearly a major consideration and the entire staff ensured a warm, relaxed atmosphere, allied to all-important efficiency. Seven of us dined there on one visit and all our courses arrived at pretty much the same time at the correct temperatures.

Between us we sampled dishes from across the menu. They reflected excellent use of good quality produce, served up in very generous portions. This is simple, straight-forward home-cooking with the emphasis on taste. There is plenty of choice ensuring something for everyone.

Inside The King’s Head, Guilsfield, Welshpool

My mother-in-law Bet’s home-made beef lasagne with salad (£8.95) was a delight with beautifully tender pieces of meat while father-in-law John’s deep-fried wholetail scampi with chips and peas (£8.95) was a pub grub standard done to perfection.

My wife Vanessa’s venison casserole (£9.95) was a dark, rich feast while chicken breast stuffed with leeks and cream cheese wrapped in bacon (£10.95) was a banquet in itself and excellent value for me and son, 17 year-old son Will.

The 8oz Celtic Pride steak burger (£7.25) topped with bacon and melted cheese and served in a floured bap was, again, a meal for the very healthiest of appetites. Eldest son Tom, 19, polished if off in one, while eight year old son Sam ended up eating his in instalments over two days, after the staff kindly foil-wrapped the half he couldn’t manage. This was a fantastically thick, juicy, burger packed with meat.

On another occasion my wife Vanessa tried the 10oz sirloin steak, with tomato, mushrooms and onion rings (£13.95). It is possibly the defining test of a pub kitchen – can you cook a steak exactly the way the customer asks for it? Steak eaters are a particular breed and instructions to the waiter can range from ‘still with a pulse’ and ‘whisked past a lukewarm radiator’ to ‘re-inforced sole of postman’s boot’ and ‘beyond incinerated’. The King’s Head kitchen received Vanessa’s seal of approval – not given lightly – for her medium-rare cut.

Starters like Bantry Bay mussels in white wine sauce with onions and parsley (£5.95) and grilled flat mushroom stuffed with leeks and brie wrapped in smoked bacon (£4.75) are also representative of the high standard on offer, while a range of home-made desserts are excellent value at £4.95.

As with most British pub dining rooms in the 21st century, the menu is representative of several different national cuisines and cooking styles – Indian, Italian, TexMex and French amongst them, as well as indigenous dishes. The days of chicken and chips in a basket are long behind us.

We are not alone in thinking the King’s Head is getting it right, for on both visits there were plenty of other customers. The Shropshire Star also received this glowing recommendation from Sue Warner, who was so impressed that she clearly put pen to paper the moment she arrived home, to enthuse: “We have had lunch today at The King’s Head, Guilsfield, near Welshpool and it was superb. “Everything was freshly prepared and cooked (no microwaves here) and tasted delicious. Might be one for your travelling testers?”

As the travelling tester in question – although I didn’t have to travel very far – I’m in complete agreement, Sue.

ADDRESS
The King’s Head, Guilsfield, Welshpool SY21 9NJ
Tel: 01938 555930

MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Oven-baked goat’s cheese in filo pastry with onion chutney (£4.95); Barbecue ribs cooked in authentic barbecue sauce (£4.25).

MAINS
Honey roast half duck with orange sauce (£14.95); 8oz beer battered cod fillet with tartare sauce (£8.95); Mixed bean chilli (suitable for vegan) with rice and toasted pitta bread (£8.50)

DESSERTS
Raspberry roulade (£4.95); Gluten-free chocolate fudge cake (£4.95)