Rating *** Cathy Stanworth relishes a chance to dine out on a Sunday.

Many moons ago I worked in the hospitality industry so I know it is customary for most restaurants to close on a Sunday night. Because it’s traditionally a slow evening, it’s the ideal time to give staff time off.

So imagine my surprise to be able to book a table at 7pm on a Sunday at The Four Crosses and then, on venturing inside, to find its restaurant so busy.

I had rung up on the off-chance that it would be open that night as this was the only evening my partner Simon and I could go out alone that week to do a review.

A very attractive pub on the A41 not far from Newport, it is much larger than it looks from the outside. It was beautifully refurbished about three years ago, and still looks good today. It has been under the management of John Love, who also has The Lamb Inn at Edgmond, for six months.

The attractive bar area has a small “chill-out” style lounge and a further games room with pool table off. After ordering some drinks from the friendly barman, a pint of Carling for Simon (£3) and a large glass of house red for me (£2.70), we were shown through to the restaurant by a pleasant waitress.

This was a lot bigger than we’d imagined with huge contemporary chandeliers hanging from a vaulted ceiling, and modern tables and chairs, some sporting cowhide backs.

A welcoming waitress asked if we wanted to order from the Sunday lunch menu (two courses for £9.95 and three courses for £10.95), but, as I was in the mood for something lighter (preferably fish), we asked to order from the normal menu. I must say however from looking at the generous looking plates of attractive roasts being delivered to tables nearby, I could see why it was proving popular. And indeed, it had been yet another reader recommendation that had led us here.

For starters I ordered deep fried mushrooms in breadcrumbs stuffed with Stilton (£3.95) while Simon chose roll mop herring (£3.95). I was delighted to find exactly what I had on my mind on the menu for my main – chargrilled sea bass with a salsa and rosemary sliced roasted potatoes (£9.95), while Simon went for a medium special fillet steak with peppercorn sauce and chips (£14.95).

Inside The Four Crosses, Hinstock

I hadn’t had mushrooms as a starter for a while and was looking forward to them. When they came I was presented with three large mushrooms in a breadcrumb batter, together with a nice, fresh, salad garnish of leaves and sliced peppers. Unfortunately the batter was slightly overdone, meaning it was a tad hard to cut into. And my plate did not feel as if it had been warmed.

I ended up stripping the mushrooms of the batter altogether and leaving this to one side. However, the mushrooms themselves were good, I could taste the Stilton and the salad was very enjoyable.

Simon had no complaints whatsoever with his herring and enjoyed it. It came with a generous slice of white, home-made looking chunky bread.

For the mains I was delighted with my fish. I was beautifully cooked, with the flesh tasting as if it had been drizzled with a light butter-sauce. It was positioned on top of some very nice rosemary potatoes and came with a further salad, the same as before, but with the addition of some sliced red onion and tomatoes.

My only complaint was with the salsa that was supposed to complement it. I found this too overpowering for my palate, with a too strong tomato flavour. I couldn’t eat it.

Simon, however, really enjoyed his steak; he said it was much better than a rather more expensive one he’d had the previous night when we had dined out with his children for his birthday. The chips and peppercorn sauce were fine and he had no complaints.

Deciding against a pudding, Simon said he would just order a coffee to finish the meal off, as usual. While we waited to attract the waitress’s attention I was debating my score. Because of the over-cooked batter and over-strong salsa I felt I could only give a three, yet the place was so popular and with the Sunday lunch dishes looking so tempting, I would have given three and a half if we were allowed to give halves.

When Simon tried to order a coffee the waitress told us that unfortunately the coffee machine was broken. He could have a filter coffee. But then she remembered that they’d got no milk. So it would have to be a black coffee. Now this was a first, I’ve never eaten anywhere where they’ve run out of milk. Simon politely said he wouldn’t bother. So, as fast as my hypothetical additional half a star had materialised in my mind it had now been quickly erased by an imaginary rubber.

However, we both decided that The Four Crosses still had lots to offer, including good value prices for a substantial choice of dishes and a seemingly excellent Sunday lunch, and so a return visit will be on the cards.

ADDRESS
The Four Crosses, Chester Road, Shakeford, Hinstock near Market Drayton TF9 2SP
Tel: 01952 550560

MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Prawn Salad £4.95; Pate £3.95

MAINS
Lasagne £6.95; Chargrilled Chicken £7.95;

DESSERTS
Cheesecake £3.95; Toffee Lumpy Bumpy £3.95

SERVICE
Friendly and efficient

ATMOSPHERE
Quite busy

DISABLED ACCESS
Disabled toilets and flat access