Rating: *** The venue is stunning, as pretty as any in Shrewsbury, writes Andy Richardson. The Mercure Shrewsbury Albrighton Hall Hotel and Spa is situated in a glorious location, off the Ellesmere Road, and offers visitors picture perfect views.

There is an immaculate vista across an ornamental lake, which, on still days, acts like a mirror for the 18th century manor house, reflecting back its imposing frame against a clear blue sky.

The gardens are beautiful: a soothing collection of towering trees and mature shrubs that fit into the 15-acre site with the sure and steady precision of a key in the door.

Different shades of green fill the landscape, the ever-changing palate thrilling the senses. And the house itself is thrilling: a sumptuous 18th century manor house that personifies class.

Inside, the rooms mix heritage and modernity with no little skill. Its spa is thoroughly modern, for instance, though there are luxuriously-appointed, wood-panelled lounges that sparkle with light from chandeliers. Such rooms are redolent of a bygone era.

The venue is a lost world, a place where guests can escape the blitzkrieg rush of big cities, enjoy the best of rural life or simply escape the rigorous of their day-to-day reality. Make no mistake, Albrighton Hall is a jewel in Shropshire’s crown.

The Albrighton Hall dining room is evocative of a different age, with its high ceiling, large windows and antique furnishings.

Its staff, too, seem to have an air of authority and skill that is equally old-fashioned. The new maitre d is deferential and polite, a long-serving waiter skuttles around the room, eager to ensure diners are pleased with their service, while newer staff seem to learn the lessons of their experienced colleagues.

My friend and I visited for a mid-week supper, expecting the dining room to be reasonably empty. We found it more than half full, with a mix of hotel guests enjoying their evening dinner and couples smiling happily during intimate evenings out.

The menu is a mix of fine dining and bistro-style dishes, presumably a concession to hotel guests who may simply fancy a light bite following a day of networking at a conference. So, while duck, lamb, sea bream and salmon feature on an extensive a la carte menu, alongside ample vegetarian options, there are also a number of steaks and age old classics.

My friend started with a tomato panna cotta, which had been filled with pesto and was dressed with small pieces of tomato and served with a slice of sourdough bread drenched in olive oil. It was reasonable, without being truly impressive. The tomato essence used to flavour the panna cotta was too weak. The sweet piquancy of the tomato was lost against the cloying power of the cream. A better essence, or far better quality of ingredients, would have made a big difference.

My starter, a plate of bresaola dressed with pine nuts, salad leaves and a light dressing, was simple and effective.

In selecting our main courses, my friend and I eschewed the fine dining options for Albrighton’s bistro classics.

My dining companion chose a beer-battered haddock and chips, with tartare sauce and crushed peas while I selected a 28-day-aged fillet steak with chips, mushrooms and tomato.

The dishes were delivered to our table in good time. My friend’s fish and chips was served with a flourish, small pots of peas and tartare sauce standing to attention like sentries on duty.

Her battered haddock was wrapped in posh newspaper – it had been designed for the purpose, rather than culled from the pages of your favourite evening read – though the batter was a little floury and soft. A stack of three thick-cut chips were stacked onto the corner of the plate like a Rubik’s Cube that was missing a row of squares.

My steak, meanwhile, was an exceptional piece of meat that had been cooked rare, as requested.

It’s dark savoury contours indicated that it had been hung long, allowing the flavours to develop, and its soft, almost gelatinous texture was in contrast to the dark, sizzle of criss-cross patterns that appeared on the charred outer.

There were plenty of desserts to choose from and my friend opted for a light and sharp summer berry pudding, drizzled with coulis and served with cream.

It was good, though there was a too-sharp aftertaste, which seemed to indicate a touch of balsamic vinegar.

Whatever the mystery ingredient was, it served to detract from the flavour of the fruit, rather than enhance it.

I, meanwhile, opted for the sour cherry panna cotta, which was served with a scoop of ice cream and dots of coulis and balsamic. It was a peculiar and not-entirely convincing dessert. The ice cream had none of the soft, silky texture that I’d hoped for and contained too many jagged ice crystals. The spots of balsamic were an unwelcome accompaniment and the cherries weren’t sour.

Although Albrighton Hall is undoubtedly a scintillating venue in remarkable surrounds, it’s dining room doesn’t pack the punch that it might.

Although the service is good and ingredients are also mostly good, it lacks je ne sais quoi. Tables are packed tightly into the room, the food lacks precision and effortless skill that is required to win one of our higher ratings.

As a country house hotel, it is spacious, popular and elegant. But as a restaurant, it falls just short. Simply, the cooking needs to be better.

ADDRESS
Mercure Shrewsbury Albrighton Hall, Ellesmere Road, Albrighton SY4 3AG
Telephone: 01939 291000
Web: http://www.mercure.com/gb/hotel-6629-mercure-shrewsbury-albrighton-hall-hotel-and-spa/index.shtml